Group Build: Biplane - barnstormer to fighter

[BarleyBop]

brain freeze

Haha, that's the glue, man!
Secret is safe with me. Looks great, and that's good enough, in my books!

 

[Ron2]

You know? This might seem kind of funny but all the time I hear you guys talk about trimming decals. I've never trimmed a decal in my life. Not once. Never occurred to me. Just saying. I'm not saying your way is needless or anything just that I've never done that. Hmm

Me either until I started the Hasegawa Growler. My question is how do you know when a decal needs to be trimmed? The clear perimeter of decal on that build was ridiculous

 

[Ron2]

It's getting there, boys. It's coming along nicely a lot still to do but it's taking shape

Looks awesome!

 

[Rockin' Rob]

That Underside shot looks great. Good job

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Looks awesome!

Thank you

 

[Ron2]

Finished the little KP 1/72 Avia B.534. Too small for me to rig this one!

View attachment 198535
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Sharp! What is that insignia?

 

[Tommergun]

Me either until I started the Hasegawa Growler. My question is how do you know when a decal needs to be trimmed? The clear perimeter of decal on that build was ridiculous

Often especially on the older ones, you can hold them to light just right and see the excess film around the individual decals. I had one old kit where I didn't trim close to the decal, just kinda around it. When I soaked it there was a massive amount of clear film around it. Turned out the whole sheet was clear film and you absolutely had to trim each one close. Trial and error sometimes.

 

[Tommergun]

Sharp! What is that insignia?

Slovak National Uprising 1944.

 

[Ron2]

Often especially on the older ones, you can hold them to light just right and see the excess film around the individual decals. I had one old kit where I didn't trim close to the decal, just kinda around it. When I soaked it there was a massive amount of clear film around it. Turned out the whole sheet was clear film and you absolutely had to trim each one close. Trial and error sometimes.

I'll have to do that moving forward. I didn't know until I was trying to place canopy decals and it was too late at that point. I suppose uncle have just let them dry out, trimmed and then started th process over.

 

[BarleyBop]

Gloster Sea Gladiator

So about to start priming, looking ahead to rigging.
Inspired by youz guys accomplishments!

My thought at the top of this GB, was that I'd be using brass rod, with elastic rigging as a backup. Then, while accessorizing a future Walrus build, I came across these 'generic' flat PE wires, which I'd posted earlier.

In searching for photos of the Sea Gladiator, I've also learned a few things about how it was rigged.

For starters, by the time it was designed in the '30s, aerodynamics and drag were better understood. This resulted in flat bracing wires oriented to slice through the wind, and locating hardware inside the wing, so no turnbuckles or tensioning/attachments visible.

So... Going the flat rigging route might be more mechanically accurate, but it poses installation problems of its own.

For example:

• I could drill anchor points, resulting in round holes, when the actual ones were rectangular.
• the metal can't be stretched to fit under tension...
• my PE is in a generic set which means it all has to be cut, exactly, to size.

Gonna hafta think a bit on this through the painting phase!

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Gloster Sea Gladiator

So about to start priming, looking ahead to rigging.
Inspired by youz guys accomplishments!

My thought at the top of this GB, was that I'd be using brass rod, with elastic rigging as a backup. Then, while accessorizing a future Walrus build, I came across these 'generic' flat PE wires, which I'd posted earlier.

View attachment 198565

In searching for photos of the Sea Gladiator, I've also learned a few things about how it was rigged.

For starters, by the time it was designed in the '30s, aerodynamics and drag were better understood. This resulted in flat bracing wires oriented to slice through the wind, and locating hardware inside the wing, so no turnbuckles or tensioning/attachments visible.

So... Going the flat rigging route might be more mechanically accurate, but it poses installation problems of its own.

For example:

• I could drill anchor points, resulting in round holes, when the actual ones were rectangular.
• the metal can't be stretched to fit under tension...
• my PE is in a generic set which means it all has to be cut, exactly, to size.

Gonna hafta think a bit on this through the painting phase!

Wow! Deja vu. That's exactly the thoughts that went through my head when I was building mine. You'll find that PE might be more of a struggle than it's worth. Unless you're going for historically accurate. Me? It's my first attempt at rigging. I'm not going to go for a gold medal. I'll settle for looking halfway decent.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

This is why I saved the weapons for last. Four sprue. It looks like lots of cleanup is in store for my day!

 

[Ron2]

Gloster Sea Gladiator

So about to start priming, looking ahead to rigging.
Inspired by youz guys accomplishments!

My thought at the top of this GB, was that I'd be using brass rod, with elastic rigging as a backup. Then, while accessorizing a future Walrus build, I came across these 'generic' flat PE wires, which I'd posted earlier.

View attachment 198565

In searching for photos of the Sea Gladiator, I've also learned a few things about how it was rigged.

For starters, by the time it was designed in the '30s, aerodynamics and drag were better understood. This resulted in flat bracing wires oriented to slice through the wind, and locating hardware inside the wing, so no turnbuckles or tensioning/attachments visible.

So... Going the flat rigging route might be more mechanically accurate, but it poses installation problems of its own.

For example:

• I could drill anchor points, resulting in round holes, when the actual ones were rectangular.
• the metal can't be stretched to fit under tension...
• my PE is in a generic set which means it all has to be cut, exactly, to size.

Gonna hafta think a bit on this through the painting phase!

You could Drill smaller holes and square them up with your exacto.

 

[Bob T]

This is where I am at. Slowly getting the landing gear cleaned up and assembled (Roden!?!?)
Still have to figure the last couple decals (Roden?!?!) Mount the engine. Finish painting the prop, (which looks pretty good now)
A ways to go yet.

 

[kevin]

Slowly getting the landing gear cleaned up and assembled (Roden!?!?)
Still have to figure the last couple decals (Roden?!?!)

Looks like you're making it work out

When I first started looking for a model for this group build, I had my eye on a Roden. Before pulling the trigger on purchasing I saw a u tube video and the guy was badmouthing Roden left and right.
I have never built a Roden before so I decided to shop around some more and picked an Eduard. I had never built an Eduard before this GB either, but now I'm certainly thinking I made the right choice. The Eduard 1/48 Fokker D.VII OAW was hassle free for this rookie aircraft builder.

 

[BarleyBop]

A ways to go yet.

Looking very sharp! A red dress does turn heads!

The Eduard 1/48 Fokker D.VII OAW was hassle free for this rookie aircraft builder.

Eduard seems to have a pretty solid rep... And your build was pretty solid too!

 

[Ron2]

Looks like you're making it work out

When I first started looking for a model for this group build, I had my eye on a Roden. Before pulling the trigger on purchasing I saw a u tube video and the guy was badmouthing Roden left and right.
I have never built a Roden before so I decided to shop around some more and picked an Eduard. I had never built an Eduard before this GB either, but now I'm certainly thinking I made the right choice. The Eduard 1/48 Fokker D.VII OAW was hassle free for this rookie aircraft builder.

I've heard complaints about Roden before. The reason I picked their kit was because of the subject.

 

[kevin]

I just went back and read all 24 pages of this thread.......alot of good stuff going on here. It's motivating me to build more aircraft.


Oh, and congratulations to Ron2 for being the first to complete your build.......winner, winner. Since BarleyBop initiated this GB, see him for your chicken dinner.

 

[Ron2]

I just went back and read all 24 pages of this thread.......alot of good stuff going on here. It's motivating me to build more aircraft.


Oh, and congratulations to Ron2 for being the first to complete your build.......winner, winner. Since BarleyBop initiated this GB, see him for your chicken dinner.

I picked a pretty simple build.

 

[kevin]

I picked a pretty simple build.

So did I........just getting my feet wet on aircraft builds.

I know it isn't a race, just having a little fun.

 

[BarleyBop]

I picked a pretty simple build.

"Simple is as simple does"

 

[Edbert]

by the time it was designed in the '30s, aerodynamics and drag were better understood. This resulted in flat bracing wires oriented to slice through the wind

That is true, but predates the 30s. My 1917 build (yes, RAF) had the same for the inner rigging too.

 

[Edbert]

This is where I am at. Slowly getting the landing gear cleaned up and assembled (Roden!?!?)

That is one beautiful bird!

 

[Edbert]

For example:

• I could drill anchor points, resulting in round holes, when the actual ones were rectangular.
• the metal can't be stretched to fit under tension...
• my PE is in a generic set which means it all has to be cut, exactly, to size.

You left out my option...

• Use superglue to adhere to a flat surface and get those cool blobs/bulges of CA for free!