Haha, that's the glue, man!
Secret is safe with me. Looks great, and that's good enough, in my books!
Group Build: Biplane - barnstormer to fighter
- Thread starter BarleyBop
- Start date
Secret is safe with me. Looks great, and that's good enough, in my books!
Me either until I started the Hasegawa Growler. My question is how do you know when a decal needs to be trimmed? The clear perimeter of decal on that build was ridiculous
Looks awesome!
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That Underside shot looks great. Good job
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Thank you
Sharp! What is that insignia?
Often especially on the older ones, you can hold them to light just right and see the excess film around the individual decals. I had one old kit where I didn't trim close to the decal, just kinda around it. When I soaked it there was a massive amount of clear film around it. Turned out the whole sheet was clear film and you absolutely had to trim each one close. Trial and error sometimes.
Slovak National Uprising 1944.
I'll have to do that moving forward. I didn't know until I was trying to place canopy decals and it was too late at that point. I suppose uncle have just let them dry out, trimmed and then started th process over.
Gloster Sea Gladiator
So about to start priming, looking ahead to rigging.
Inspired by youz guys accomplishments!
My thought at the top of this GB, was that I'd be using brass rod, with elastic rigging as a backup. Then, while accessorizing a future Walrus build, I came across these 'generic' flat PE wires, which I'd posted earlier.
In searching for photos of the Sea Gladiator, I've also learned a few things about how it was rigged.
For starters, by the time it was designed in the '30s, aerodynamics and drag were better understood. This resulted in flat bracing wires oriented to slice through the wind, and locating hardware inside the wing, so no turnbuckles or tensioning/attachments visible.
So... Going the flat rigging route might be more mechanically accurate, but it poses installation problems of its own.
For example:
So about to start priming, looking ahead to rigging.
Inspired by youz guys accomplishments!
My thought at the top of this GB, was that I'd be using brass rod, with elastic rigging as a backup. Then, while accessorizing a future Walrus build, I came across these 'generic' flat PE wires, which I'd posted earlier.
In searching for photos of the Sea Gladiator, I've also learned a few things about how it was rigged.
For starters, by the time it was designed in the '30s, aerodynamics and drag were better understood. This resulted in flat bracing wires oriented to slice through the wind, and locating hardware inside the wing, so no turnbuckles or tensioning/attachments visible.
So... Going the flat rigging route might be more mechanically accurate, but it poses installation problems of its own.
For example:
- I could drill anchor points, resulting in round holes, when the actual ones were rectangular.
- the metal can't be stretched to fit under tension...
- my PE is in a generic set which means it all has to be cut, exactly, to size.
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Wow! Deja vu. That's exactly the thoughts that went through my head when I was building mine. You'll find that PE might be more of a struggle than it's worth. Unless you're going for historically accurate. Me? It's my first attempt at rigging. I'm not going to go for a gold medal. I'll settle for looking halfway decent.
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You could Drill smaller holes and square them up with your exacto.
Bob T
Well-Known Member
This is where I am at. Slowly getting the landing gear cleaned up and assembled (Roden!?!?)
Still have to figure the last couple decals (Roden?!?!) Mount the engine. Finish painting the prop, (which is looks pretty good now)
A ways to go yet.
Still have to figure the last couple decals (Roden?!?!) Mount the engine. Finish painting the prop, (which is looks pretty good now)
A ways to go yet.
