Vallejo primers work well as finish coats. My SR-71 has only that, giving it the proper "hole in the air" appearance. appearance.
Academy 1/48 A10C
- Thread starter Jantk14
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Jantk14
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So I put my first clear coat on. Normally I use a satin then a matte and have never had a problem before. This time I used a gloss to see if it would help with silvering I get with my decals. Well it didn't go so great. I'm not sure what happened but it's very uneven and I got areas that I guess was pooling that didn't even out. Pretty pissed. I'm hoping after a coat of satin and a finish coat of matte it won't be noticeable. I used the same product just a gloss.
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blakeh1
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Gloss coat will definitely help eliminate silvering issues
Although, I might be an outlier here, but I generally do not gloss the whole plane/model. I will brush paint on a gloss coat only where I will be placing decals. I currently have a bottle of that future polish I use for this as it is self leveling for the most part unless I apply too thick and let it run if the surface is not level.
I have not tried this with Vallejo gloss yet but I suspect it should work the same. If using Tamiya though, I would definitely use an airbrush. I feel Tamiya paints are very fiddly to paint with a paint brush over anything more that a very small spot touch up
After letting dry for a day or so I then matte coat it with Vallejo matte varnish
Although, I might be an outlier here, but I generally do not gloss the whole plane/model. I will brush paint on a gloss coat only where I will be placing decals. I currently have a bottle of that future polish I use for this as it is self leveling for the most part unless I apply too thick and let it run if the surface is not level.
I have not tried this with Vallejo gloss yet but I suspect it should work the same. If using Tamiya though, I would definitely use an airbrush. I feel Tamiya paints are very fiddly to paint with a paint brush over anything more that a very small spot touch up
After letting dry for a day or so I then matte coat it with Vallejo matte varnish
What gloss did you use? Some of that looks like surface contamination.
Jantk14
Well-Known Member
Vallejo polyurethane gloss varnish
Would it do any good if I sanded it with some 3000 grit or do you think the next layer of satin will hide it?
Would it do any good if I sanded it with some 3000 grit or do you think the next layer of satin will hide it?
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VegasAWACER13
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Yes, I would carefully sand the affected areas with 3000 grit.
I highly recommend Alclad Acqua Gloss. Very easy to work with and also a breeze to put enamel washes over.
Jantk14
Well-Known Member
So I hit it with a light sanding and light coat of matte just make sure I didn't ruin it. Looks good. Catastrophe avoided. Going to put a light coat of satin back on the wing and then decal from there. Not messing with the gloss again.
Nice stuff!
Aha! I got exactly the same results with that product. While I'm generally a fan of Vallejo products, a few of them are lemons. Their gloss is one of those, which is odd, considering their semigloss and flat are great.
Sanding with a fine grit should remove it, though you may not have to go down to 3000. Be sure to remove all the sanding residue.
I have not used Alclad Aqua Gloss, but I may look into it. My preferred gloss treatment is Holloway House ® Quick Shine® Multi-Surface Floor Finish, applied with a wide, flat brush. It levels beautifully. I dislike applying clear gloss finishes with an airbrush, as it's difficult to judge how much you are applying. Brush application of Quick Shine® is easier.
Jantk14
Well-Known Member
Their satin goes on nicely too. Looks like im trying a new gloss
I found the gloss was much thicker than the satin or matte. I ended up thinning it 2:1 but think it was still too thick.
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styrenemachine
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Hey! I work pretty hard to get that very effect using splatter stencils!
Jantk14
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Well now you know of a good product for that effect
. I'm going to try the Alclad Aqua Gloss next time. Does it need to be thinned?
blakeh1
Well-Known Member
I suspect it is just due to the unevenness of the gloss coat. Gloss tends to make things look darker, and if it comes out of the airbrush blotchy parts will be more gloss than others
Probably just matting over it would have been enough without sanding.
It's the main reason I generally don't gloss the model and rather selectively gloss just where the decals are going by hand instead
Probably just matting over it would have been enough without sanding.
It's the main reason I generally don't gloss the model and rather selectively gloss just where the decals are going by hand instead
VegasAWACER13
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I find it sprays fine right out if the bottle. But never hurts to test a section out and add some thinner if you want a thinner spray. I generally mist it on first and then go back with a wet coat.
Hmmm. Experienced that before.
I havent perfected a mirror-like gloss coat, but I have, through trial and error, come up with a good technique for getting a decent gloss base coat for decals and weathering.
I start by applying a light coat of the gloss with the airbrush, then letting it dry. I then take a wet soft cloth and give the surface of the kit a gentle buffing. The wet soft cloth delivers a very fine sanding effect on the surface without taking off the paint. It seems to smooth out the quasi dusty like texture of the surface I have after the first application of the gloss coating. I will usually do this to the entire surface of the model between the initial light coat of gloss, and the second (sealing) coat. I've been getting good results with this technique.
After much experimentation with different gloss coat products I have now settled on Microscale's Micro Gloss. I mix in about 15% Vallejo airbrush thinner and a couple of drops of retarded (a tip I picked up on YouTube).
I'd be really happy to know of any other techniques that are producing good results.
Jantk14
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Spent about four hours doing the decals today. It might be easier to say where you can step instead of no step. Happily I didn't destroy any of them.
Jantk14
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Anyone know what color to paint the aaq-28 litening pod? The instructions say black but every image I've found isn't black.
VegasAWACER13
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I'd paint it the same color as the jet. That's typically how they look.
Jantk14
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On the weathering stage. Think I'm done. Not going to do much. Most pictures I've found the plane is pretty clean. A little grimy in some so that's what I went with. I did see one that was filthy but I don't want that. I did some exhaust with oil around the back of the engines and a dark dirt wash.
blakeh1
Well-Known Member
Great work!
That looks amazing! Well done!
I didn't see it in photos, if memory serves me correctly, the Auxiliary Power Unit (APU) for the A-10 is located under the port side engine. There can be a bit of an exhaust stain by the APU exhaust.
I can't wait to see the next round of photos with the canopy unmasked and the ordenance loaded.
Jantk14
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All done. Probably my favorite build.
Very well done.
If I ever move from WW2 aircraft, this'd be on the list!
kevin
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I really like the paint job and panel lines.
blakeh1
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It's something to be proud of for sure. Great work
Jakko
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BOATMAN
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WOW that A10 is a wonderfull model how you have built an painted it something i can only aspire too but never get that good this should go on in a clear case to be on display as this is one of the best model ive ever seen very well done sir wish i could build like that an i think i would really look good lit up to add to the realisum
chrisb
chrisb
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