CA glue

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Bob Smith Industries products. That's what Tim linked in his post.
I get the quick flowing product.
I use BSI 2-part epoxy, too, the 5-minute curing version.
At some places, like HobbyTown, they sell Bob Smith products, but get it labeled for their store.

Hope that helps!

Best regards,
Brad

A PS-I only use these glues for gluing unlike materials to each other, and material other than styrene. So, all combinations of resin, metal, and styrene. For styrene to styrene, I use glues made for use with styrene. I want that weld bond that styrene glues produce with styrene.
 
After DECADES of struggling with CA glues on kits, I've finally found my solution in Loctite CA glues.
My problem is that I don't use CA often and when I need to use it, the tip has dried out or the glue is gummy or cured solid in the bottle or has some other issue.
I was at Lowe's one day and saw Loctite CA glues in two different formulas: regular and gel.
I bought both and found that these are the solution to my CA problems.
The caps twist and lock and do not get stuck or allow the glue to dry out.
The best part is that the bottle design gives you a lot of control over the application.
You squeeze the red or blue sides of the bottle to push out just enough glue exactly where it needs to go.
And Loctite CA is readily available at many department and hardware stores.
I say give these two a try!

Loctite Super Glue Liquid Control
https://www.loctiteproducts.com/pro...per-glue-liquid-control/SAP_0201DCL029W9.html

Loctite Super Glue Gel Control
https://www.loctiteproducts.com/pro...-super-glue-gel-control/SAP_0201DGL029X7.html
 
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What brand do you guys use as far as thick and thin CA glue?
Pattex Loctite (they changed the branding here over the last few years), or as an alternative, Bison — because I have to go into town to buy Loctite, whereas in the village I live in, I can get Bison. But the tubes the Bison comes in are not as good, so I prefer the Loctite.

I buy any of these in just regular, 3-gramme tubes, because even those generally harden or totally clog up the nozzle before they're really empty. This despite wiping the nozzle before replacing the cap and storing the tube upright instead of flat, both of which help to keep the contents usable.
 
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that weld bond
Agree about the weld on styrene being stronger... however, there are times when a CA bond that can be easily broken can be an advantage. So I keep that in mind.

As for CA,
I use the BSI, but recently have used these...
I've had better luck keeping the Mercury viable, maybe the bottle/cap?
The Gorilla gel has a bit more work time, and doesn't creep away: dab a bit where the part is going, and press the part into it.
Dunno if it's just marketing, but it feels like the 'Metal' works better on PE and brass. :rolleyes:
...and we'd be remiss if we didn't mention the Zip Kicker, a CA accelerator, especially with (as they advertise) tough to bond combinations.
Oh, and de-bonder... if only for your fingers!

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I mainly use the gorilla glue in the small tubes. A six pack of the little tubes is pretty cheap the small tubes are great. I also have loctite as well and I do like the squeeze applicator previously mentioned.
 
Wait a daggonit minute here! (old-school engine builder and general mechanic stuff)

I've been using red and blue Loctite since the 80s. Are you telling me that stuff is just cyanoacrylate glue?
 
Wait a daggonit minute here! (old-school engine builder and general mechanic stuff)

I've been using red and blue Loctite since the 80s. Are you telling me that stuff is just cyanoacrylate glue?

Loctite the brand makes a plethora of products and epoxy's, thread locker and the superglue are separate products in their line.
 
I've been using BSI (or Sprue Brothers house branded BSI), but do get frustrated with the tip clogging and cap sticking. I'm pretty darn careful to tap it down and wipe the tip, but it's still rare to get through the entire bottle. There are occasions when the extra thin variety is nice when you really need to wick it into place, but I may switch to another brand for general use.
 
Mercury Adhesives for both CA and epoxy.

I keep my CA in a glass bale jar with moisture absorbing, indicating silica beads. Lasts for years. You can also keep it in the refrigerator, but this works as well, and you don't have to wait for it to warm up. I use Dry & Dry™ silica gel beads, unfortunately available from Amazonk. Get the rechargeable, indicating, food grade ones.
 
Agree about the weld on styrene being stronger... however, there are times when a CA bond that can be easily broken can be an advantage. So I keep that in mind.

As for CA,
I use the BSI, but recently have used these...
I've had better luck keeping the Mercury viable, maybe the bottle/cap?
The Gorilla gel has a bit more work time, and doesn't creep away: dab a bit where the part is going, and press the part into it.
Dunno if it's just marketing, but it feels like the 'Metal' works better on PE and brass. :rolleyes:
...and we'd be remiss if we didn't mention the Zip Kicker, a CA accelerator, especially with (as they advertise) tough to bond combinations.
Oh, and de-bonder... if only for your fingers!

View attachment 177403
What applicator do you use for the Zip Kicker, I have two bottles and no applicators the one I use floods.
Cameron
 
What applicator
I like using a micro brush, it soaks just a little, squeeze it against the glued joint. Or quickly touch the part that will receive the part that already has CA on it, but making sure I place the part exactly where it needs to go!
My bottle came with a pump spray, but that feels like a fire hose!
As @Jakko pointed out previously, if both hands are holding the parts together, breathe on it and the water vapor in your breath will act as an accelerator! I works, I tried it: not as directly as applying a small drop of Zip with a microbrush, but good for small bits.
 

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