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- Apr 29, 2024
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No dice on doing the panels off the plane? I'm going to do that with some of my P-51. I was hoping to watch you do it and see how it turned out but that's okay. Yours is looking excellent as always.
Vertical Vengeance: A Dive into History. Dive Bomber Group Build
- Thread starter TimM63
- Start date
Jantk14
Well-Known Member
Post shaded. I got the faded look I was hoping for but I think with a clear coat it will get washed out. Kind of afraid to go further.
Don't be. Clear coats usually make darker colors darker.
I drop the bomb sling while painting it and while looking for it I stepped on it.
Needless to say the bomb will not have a sling on it.
Needless to say the bomb will not have a sling on it.
Scratchbuild out of brass rod stock?
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Mine didn't even come with a bomb, so I ordered one with a trolley to park under the plane.
That's a bummer
Yes. However with it hanging on the wall no one will see it and anyone who does won't know anything is missing.
blakeh1
Well-Known Member
This is not mine, but came across some really great inspiration for a diorama from a modeler in Taiwan
1/48 scale Devastator torpedo 8 Battle of Midway 1942 diorama (EZ Chao)
1/48 scale Devastator torpedo 8 Battle of Midway 1942 diorama (EZ Chao)
This is … beyond and above. I salute the artist. Yes, artist. Some denigrate scale model artists. This gives them the lie, this is art.
Very cool!
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- Apr 29, 2024
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Especially if you can pick the parts up with your feet
Edbert
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- May 16, 2024
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I may be mistaken, but I believe that several waves of TBDs were completely destroyed. None returned and no torpedo hits on the Japanese fleet. However their sacrifice was not in vain, they brough the CAP down to the deck in a feeding frenzy, that allowed Dick Best's flight of SBDs to come in right behind them and sink several carriers because the enemy CAP was too low to intercept them.
I hope our grandchildren learn these stories!
I think the plane depicted 8-T-14 is that of George Gay who was the only survivor of that squadron.
Jantk14
Well-Known Member
So my first pre decal satin clear coat didn't come out so great. Not sure what I did. My last model it came out great nice and smooth. This time it feels sandy and rough, not as smooth. You can kind of see it too. Being new with an airbrush I have no doubt it was operator error. I just don't know what I did? Does this happen if you put it down to heavy or maybe spraying from too far away?
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It's reaching the surface too dry. You did not specify what product you are using, what you thinned it with and how much, the air pressure, ambient temperature and humidity, and the distance from the surface. All these factors come into play. Besides, clear coats are the most difficult to apply. This is because they are clear—the only change in surface appearance is not one of color, but reflectivity, which is much harder for the human eye to judge.
Please give us the specifics I've mentioned, and we'll all be able to help.
Jantk14
Well-Known Member
I used Vallejo polyurethane varnish. I thinned it a little with Vallejo airbrush thinner and was spraying at about 25 psi. I was about 3-4 inches away. 70 and not humid in the house. First time I used it it went down great. I'm thinking this time in my need for perfection I went back to an area and put more down when it was in between wet and dry. Not sure totally but it's the only thing I can think of not doing last time. Last time I just left it alone.
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Vallejo makes several polyurethane gloss finishes. One takes at least 24 hours to fully cure, and reapplying it too soon could cause your problem. Frankly, I don't like their gloss products, though their satin and flat are fine. "Thinned a little" is rather imprecise. It pays to measure, though it doesn't have to be exact, so you know what your starting point was. For a properly thinned coating, 25 is on the high side. I usually spray at around 15 psi. Depending on the size of the airbrush aperture and dilution, 3 to 4 inches may be a little long, though at 25 psi it may not be. The pressure, dilution, and distance factors all influence each other. It's a balancing act.
Try to look at the surface at an angle, that may make it easier to judge how thick and wet the clear coating is.
Try to look at the surface at an angle, that may make it easier to judge how thick and wet the clear coating is.
Know what you mean, I don't want to rush it but at the same time I need to get on with it !!!!! PM
No worries, I'm even slower!
Thanksgiving weekend in Canada, so family, food and fall fun in abundance!
Looks almost gray in the photo?
Sounds like a lot of fun!
Life has a tendency to do that.
Well this is where I'm at with the build. Got to fit the clear parts and do some touching in to the painting.
Canopies and aerial wire to sort then I think that will be it. Pantherman
Canopies and aerial wire to sort then I think that will be it. Pantherman
Very nice!
What brand paint did you use on the top? I ask because it appears metameric—different colors at different light angles. I've never noticed this in color photos of the real thing. For most of it's modern history, one of the goals of color paint formulation was to avoid metamerism. It's only since modern aircraft went gray that the property began to be sought, rather than eliminated. It makes for very good camouflage.
What brand paint did you use on the top? I ask because it appears metameric—different colors at different light angles. I've never noticed this in color photos of the real thing. For most of it's modern history, one of the goals of color paint formulation was to avoid metamerism. It's only since modern aircraft went gray that the property began to be sought, rather than eliminated. It makes for very good camouflage.
Great job, as always, PM
Is that as Academy kit?
