How do you know what paint to use on my model

Scale Model Addict - Model Tips, Guides, Tools & Tech, Tutorials, and Community

Help Support Scale Model Addict:

first coat is like 'YIKES' for the orange but I think I thinned it too much. The green might be usable though. The wheels are from an F-15 that I didn't paint because I didn't have any way to paint it.

first coat.jpg
 
EDIT:
I wrote the response before the recent post above :)

It looks like you ordered lacquer paints (is that right?). Please be careful with the fumes and allow it to cure well, but once that is done the coating is a much better "canvas" than (disclaimer = some) modern acrylics.

---=== ORIGINAL POST ===---

Maybe you should slow down, just a bit, to save yourself from extra expense and aggravation.


You should decide what mediums you want to use. I am going to oversimplify this so "YMMV"!
  1. Do you have ventilation (a consideration for using paints with toxic thinners)?
  2. Will you be using traditional brushes or an airbrush (probably both)?
  3. Will you be using varnishes and washes (usually requires the combination of solvents)?
Just saying, there are dozens of GREAT paints out there, most are only compatible within their brand but "YMMV" right?
You were correct. I bought all the wrong paints and wasted money. The big square example that the Scale Hobbyist looks nothing like the paint that I painted on a left-over wheel from an F-15
 
first coat is like 'YIKES' for the orange but I think I thinned it too much. The green might be usable though. The wheels are from an F-15 that I didn't paint because I didn't have any way to paint it.

View attachment 126982
Are you handbrushing or airbrushing? I don't thin my paints when handbrushing but do for airbrushing.
The only exception I thin paint for handbrushing IF the paint is thick.

I use Walmart lacquer thinner. A quart of this goes a long way than your Vallejo brush cleaner.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Klean-Strip-Lacquer-Thinner-1-Quart/28659930
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change.
You were correct. I bought all the wrong paints and wasted money. The big square example that the Scale Hobbyist looks nothing like the paint that I painted on a left-over wheel from an F-15FS
Whew… I don't know what else to say. Of course it's not going to match from the actual paint to the damn computer screen. It never does. Neither it does in your instruction guide. That's why there's an paint number assignment that is from Gunze/Mr. Hobby (or other paint brand) Sometimes there's a Federal Standard number with it (ie: FS34087).

Slow down. Research what you need and decide if that's what you really need before making that purchase. I always do even though I have a big variety of paint brands (enamels, acrylics and lacquer) from Testors Model Master and Testors small square bottles to PollyScale, PollyScale Railroad Colors, Gunze/Mr. Hobby, AK Interactive Real Colors, Mission Models, and Tamiya (acrylics and lacquer).

Learn from your mistakes, experiment with what paint shade looks good to your satisfaction and learn what paint brand works, what doesn't with different types of thinners.

Understand the difference. Don't worry about the chemistry - it's all irrelevant in my opinion. Besides nobody cares. We all want to build and paint without giving a damn and worrying about the chemistry properties and ingredients of thinners and paint. Yeah… I'm talking to you uromama. LOL!

Read what brand of paint is compatible to which thinners. If unsure, take the dummy proof route and buy the same brand thinner as your paint brand. It'll save you the aggravation of being confused. This is how you learn by trial and error. I've always believed in the K.I.S.S. method in this hobby.

I will speak for everybody and myself, we've all been in this hobby for a long time and have learned a few things along the way. Don't get discouraged and frustrated.
 
Nope. Can't return paint or thinner at all.

Careful using brush cleaner by Vallejo. Vallejo brush cleaner is just that… a cleaner to thoroughly clean your brushes. Don't know how AK Interactive will react to it. I use lacquer thinner or AK Intractive brand thinner to clean my brushes / airbrush.

You need this for AK Interactive 3rd Gen paints:

https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catag...u=3&pg=1&ppp=48&sb=stocknumber_a&so=d&man=AKI

Your AK Interactive Real Color Black is a Lacquer Acrylic paint - not ALCOHOL based paint. DO NOT use Vallejo Brush Cleaner with Real Color line of paint!!!

Any hardware store lacquer thinner works using Real Color paint line.

Don't take it the wrong way by my response. Just trying to help you out and give some sound advice. Don't worry about the orange. Save it for something else. You'll never know when you'll need that color…or use it anyway. Testors Orange in those small square bottles fits the bill just fine. Look in Hobby Lobby or even Michaels.

So explain all this then ,
"
Your AK Interactive Real Color Black is a Lacquer Acrylic paint - not ALCOHOL based paint. DO NOT use Vallejo Brush Cleaner with Real Color line of paint!!!

Any hardware store lacquer thinner works using Real Color paint line. "
 
Whew… I don't know what else to say. Of course it's not going to match from the actual paint to the damn computer screen. It never does. Neither it does in your instruction guide. That's why there's an paint number assignment that is from Gunze/Mr. Hobby (or other paint brand) Sometimes there's a Federal Standard number with it (ie: FS34087).

Slow down. Research what you need and decide if that's what you really need before making that purchase. I always do even though I have a big variety of paint brands (enamels, acrylics and lacquer) from Testors Model Master and Testors small square bottles to PollyScale, PollyScale Railroad Colors, Gunze/Mr. Hobby, AK Interactive Real Colors, Mission Models, and Tamiya (acrylics and lacquer).

Learn from your mistakes, experiment with what paint shade looks good to your satisfaction and learn what paint brand works, what doesn't with different types of thinners.

Understand the difference. Don't worry about the chemistry - it's all irrelevant in my opinion. Besides nobody cares. We all want to build and paint without giving a damn and worrying about the chemistry properties and ingredients of thinners and paint. Yeah… I'm talking to you uromama. LOL!

Read what brand of paint is compatible to which thinners. If unsure, take the dummy proof route and buy the same brand thinner as your paint brand. It'll save you the aggravation of being confused. This is how you learn by trial and error. I've always believed in the K.I.S.S. method in this hobby.

I will speak for everybody and myself, we've all been in this hobby for a long time and have learned a few things along the way. Don't get discouraged and frustrated.
Second coat. I'm not impressed with either paint. both paints rub off onto the brush but I have to say that the Olive Drab Faded coats better. What is a good wait time between coats? I never thought the orange would be so bright. The example on the computer and also on the paper is what I want... Can't have what I want on actual plastic? Here is a look at the wheel after the second coat:

ColorTestOliveandOrange.jpg
 
Second coat. I'm not impressed with either paint. both paints rub off onto the brush but I have to say that the Olive Drab Faded coats better. What is a good wait time between coats? I never thought the orange would be so bright. The example on the computer and also on the paper is what I want... Can't have what I want on actual plastic? Here is a look at the wheel after the second coat:

View attachment 127046
If you prime in black then the orange will be darker. Pantherman
 
I don't think he's going to be using primer .
He should .
Sheepy told him it's not needed .
ridiculous upon ridiculous
 
Orange DOES look better after I gave it some dry time, I even have some black models to play with so I will be trying that
 
I don't think he's going to be using primer .
He should .
Sheepy told him it's not needed .
ridiculous upon ridiculous
OH! I forgot primer! looks like it is good that I waited or I might have bought gray and I need black.

EDIT:: maybe buy both?

EDIT::EDIT:: Maybe I just need to pony up the dough and get an airbrush?
 
I'm greatly dissatisfied with the Orange. I might just leave the orange out. I just put a third coat on the wheel and we will see what that looks like... I realized that the wheel might be difficult to paint with all it's little indentations. Water cleans out the brush easily and I think I finally got the paint to the right consistency like milk like somebody said on here. I have another wheel and if I can't get this wheel to look good I will try the other side of the wheel without the indentations. I found that using a brush that's too big causes the paint to thin too much wasting the paint. I also found out NOT to use paper plates with a Thinner in the paint brcause the plate melts.

EDIT:: I wish it looked like the paint on the paper... THe green is just fine and covers well.

It's dry but the paint thins out across the top areas and gathers in the indentations.

orangeandgreen001.JPG
 
Last edited:
I got lost... am I supposed to be buying harddware store lacquer thinner?

EDIT:: somehwere on the interwebs there is a video of someone making their own thinning potion.
 
No , you don't want lacquer thinner for hand brushing .
That 3rd gen should need only water to thin it if at all , but better to use a thinner medium ,
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catag...u=3&pg=1&ppp=48&sb=stocknumber_a&so=d&man=VLJ
Okay thanks. Just now I painted an extra Hard Point from the F-15 without trying to thin the orange. The Lacquer paint dried without being thinned in record time. I can't wat to see how the part looks painted!!

OH NO!!! I forgot that I need primer! Should I buy black primer for the orange parts and grey for the rest of the Helicopter?
 
Last edited:
Back
Top