Tamiya (or other) putty

[TiM]

Hi all,

Can anyone shed some light on the differences in alternative types of putty - my usual choice has been epoxy for decades, but I was watching a video the other day and the chap was using Tamiya putty.

When I looked round for some, there's Basic putty, polyester putty, light curing putty from Tamiya as well as a range of epoxies.

I'm not happy with milliput for the particular problem I have as it's too 'bulky' to use, so was going to get something else but got stuck for choice! I want something I can smooth on like a paste and carve back / sand down easily...

 

[Splashcoat]

I like to use different putties for different applications; here is my two cents worth:

Squadron Green/White
Squadron White putty supposedly has a finer texture than Squadron Green. I haven’t noticed much difference in the finished, dried product but Squadron White does have a longer working time before becoming crumbly and difficult to smooth out. Sometimes I’ll add lacquer thinner or Tamiya plastic cement to Squadron putty to get a smoother consistency. These putties do shrink a bit when dry.

Modelmaster/Testors Red Putty
This putty is much the same a Squadron putty but shrinks less when dry.

3M Blue Putty
This is an awesome product which can be found in most automotive stores. It is an auto-body putty but it makes a great modeling putty. It has a fairly long working time, fine texture and can be thinned with acetone for use as a fine scratch filler. As a bonus, it comes in large containers which makes it very economical.

Milliput White
This is the filler I reach for when I need to fill a large area or for an area that need re-scribing or additional detailing. It dries extremely hard, can be drilled or scribed when dry, has phenomenal adhesion and doesn’t shrink when dry. The white filler has the finest texture when dry. It can be easily tooled before it dries by using water to work and smooth the putty.

Mr. Surfacer 1000
Regardless of which filler I use, I always top coat the filled area with Mr. Surfacer 1000. This coat allows you to feather the edges of the filled area a bit finer than putty alone and also seals the putty against absorbing more paint than the surrounding plastic. Mr. Surfacer also excels at filling small scratches and adding texture, i.e., cast iron, rust, dirt build-up, etc.


For your particular application needing a putty which can be smoothed on and then sanded back, I recomend 3M Blue Putty or Bondo Red Spot Glazing Putty. Both of these are automotive putties which are designed to be applied in heavier layers and then worked to shape when dry.

 

[Exarkun77]

Not a pro here, but i'm working with Tamiya basic type, and i don't think it's the best choice because:

-Haven't found a way (yet) to apply it without putting too much.
-Once i start sanding down, i discover holes in the puttied zone
-So i may have to thin it, but i don't really know what works.

 

[Splashcoat]

Not a pro here, but i'm working with Tamiya basic type, and i don't think it's the best choice because:

-Haven't found a way (yet) to apply it without putting too much.
-Once i start sanding down, i discover holes in the puttied zone
-So i may have to thin it, but i don't really know what works.

I don't really love Tamiya Basic (grey) putty. I had a bad tube many years ago which put me off of it; though that's my problem, not the putty's. If you do need to thin it, Acetone is the thinner of choice for this stuff.

I like to use a artist's palette knife to apply putty. The blade is thin and flexible, which allows you to easily "pack down" the putty. My preference is for the small, triangular-shaped model...

You can find these in a variety of shapes and sizes at art supply stores.

If you're getting small air holes in the cured putty it may be slightly dry and grainy when you apply it. You might also be applying it in too heavy a layer, try a number of lighter applications.

 

[Splashcoat]

I want something I can smooth on like a paste and carve back / sand down easily...

I thin my Tamiya Basic Putty with cellulose thinner and brush it on. It goes on smooth and bonds well with plastic.

It's also my favorite putty for cast and damaged armor.

Stipple on once. Let it dry. Stipple on again. Let it dry. Sand down.

Jingles.

That does give a great cast texture; I might have to get over my Tamiya Putty hatred

 

[Grendels]

I like to use different putties for different applications; here is my two cents worth:

Squadron Green/White
Squadron White putty supposedly has a finer texture than Squadron Green. I haven’t noticed much difference in the finished, dried product but Squadron White does have a longer working time before becoming crumbly and difficult to smooth out. Sometimes I’ll add lacquer thinner or Tamiya plastic cement to Squadron putty to get a smoother consistency. These putties do shrink a bit when dry.

You can thin Squadron white with acetone based fingernail polish remover. Just a tiny bit of this, and the putty becomes very smooth and easy to work with. Also, I have never seen it shrink up on me. This even works when the putty is dry and crumbly.

 

[Exarkun77]

Very interesting effect, Jingles.

And splashcoat, thanks for the tip, i'll try to get this tool.

But i already apply as few putty as i can, with the tip of my scalpel (or x-acto).
I even mask what doesn't have to be puttied. Yet, bubbles.
It may be a bad tube, but i'll try something else if i find anything.

 

[TiM]

Thanks for the suggestions so far, very helpful.

I have made a 'best offer' on e-bay and got away with robbery! £1.97 for the basic putty ;D
Seems that even posting round the world from Hong Kong model supplies are cheap - A few things recently have been obtained for under half price!

This fact just reinforces the over-pricing that goes on, I mean how can someone charge more for posting to an off-shore island (still GB) using Royal Mail than the same items sent round the world. The actual item price being under half... only had to wait a week or so.


I'm really impressed with the photo Jingles, superb effect and one I'd like to try. 8)

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

You have to take into account that the guy that is posting it from Asia, as the factory down the street for him and probably picked up the tube for about 50cents.

The guy in the UK, has had that same tube go through many importer/wholesaler's hands, whom all take a cut to make money, and the end user in the UK pays more for it.

I have often been asked why my prices are so much more than say Lucky Model, to which I tell them, if I had Dragon down the street, Trumpeter 100miles to the north, etc, etc. I too would be able to offer those cheaper prices as I would be buying direct from the factory as opposed to the kit going through multiple layers of importers and wholesalers all who take a cut, never mind the item being sent from halfway around the world.

Good example, a Trumpeter kit that I would sell for $49.50CDN, can be purchased direct from the factory in China (if you know someone that can get it for you) for about $6US. However by the time the importer pays for shipping it from China to the US, pays US import taxes, and pays the people in the warehouse to unload it, and pick it for orders, there is a hefty amount of markup that goes into paying for all of that. Once I order it, I too have shipping on it that I pay and have to set a price based on my markup so that I too make a little money.

Believe me, no one is getting rich at this. If anything, that Asian company you bought it from is probably making the most money as instead of a normal 40-60% markup that you will find on a kit in a LHS, the Asian company is probably putting 100-200% markup (or more) on the item because they could buy it direct from the factory down the road, and despite a 200%+ markup the item is still cheaper on paper compared to a LHS in the US, Canada or the UK, and they know it!!

 

[TiM]

I understand what you're saying about distributors / warehousing / shipping / tax etc. and am not arguing against it...

I just know that I can get something for about half price, with a customs declaration saying what it is and what it cost, shipped half way round the globe... if I'm prepared to wait.

I also appreciate the need to support local shops as I do like them being there, and I do spend there too. They don't stock all the stuff I might want and don't intend to - in that case it's a global economy and I owe no loyalty to mr TaxMan.

For example, some years ago I bought a top of the line Leatherman utility tool, shipped from British Columbia from a camping shop. I paid retail price, tax and import duty, and it arrived at my door in 6 days for £52 inclusive. All UK retail had the same thing for £90, and no matter what I couldn't even negotiate a discount as they were price fixed by the sole uk importer and distributer... That is the kind of thing that bugs me. ;D

Anyway, I'm looking forward to having a go at that cast effect when my putty arrives 8)

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

I don't know about UK shops, but if it is anything like here in Canada (and the US), there are alot of Tamiya products that aren't available, mostly because Tamiya refuses to put English labeling on them.

Tamiya putty and their Liquid Cement have both been unavailable in the North American market for well over a year now.

Their Xtra Thin cement is still available, as they sell it about 10-1 over their regular liquid cement, so it made fiscal sense to re-label those.

It is a PITA that they don't, as there are quite a few that swear by Tamiya putty (personally I think it sucks, and like Squadron Green better), as well I like both Tamiya Cements and have been sparingly using my last bottle of their regular cement.