Painting section...HOW TO?!?!

RocketSilo

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Jan 22, 2011
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One product I have used to clean between colors is a cheap ammonia based cleaner.
>>>Not pure ammonia<< instead it's a common household cleaner that has a soapy-ness to it.
than I spray thru some water to flush it.

It's similar to windex as it contains ammonia but a much higher ratio.

I had some problems in the past with windex not getting the brush clean .
I found the ammonia cleaner concentrate at a dollar store for ..a dollar..lol.
it works very well but needs to be dilluted with water by the instructions.
I still use it when the airbrush gets really dirty , than spray some createx cleaner conditioner once it's clean.

I think that most household sections in the stores would have a comparable product.
 

bushman32

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Apr 30, 2011
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Shark said:
Is it the enamals that you really have to be careful when spraying because it can really hurt your lungs? You should always have a well vented area, but I heard with one of them you really should wear a mask and also.
But it isn't as fun!
 

astroboy

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Sep 1, 2011
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three questions regarding using acrylics in an airbrush

1. optimal air pressure?
2. paint: thinner ratio?
3. Do you guys strain your paint to avoid clumps? If so, what's a good strainer?
 

Elm City Hobbies

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astroboy said:
three questions regarding using acrylics in an airbrush

1. optimal air pressure?
2. paint: thinner ratio?
3. Do you guys strain your paint to avoid clumps? If so, what's a good strainer?


1. optimal air pressure? - Depends on the paint and what you are painting
2. paint: thinner ratio? - Depends on the paint
3. Do you guys strain your paint to avoid clumps? If so, what's a good strainer? - Don't know about others...but I don't
 

spud

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as re gaurd to 3 get a badger paint mixed and give the pot a gid stir this also helps keep the rim clean from shaking
 

RocketSilo

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Jan 22, 2011
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spud said:
as re gaurd to 3 get a badger paint mixed and give the pot a gid stir this also helps keep the rim clean from shaking

best paint tool since sliced bread, I can't use the MM Acryls without it
 

spud

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ya and if ya sand the edges a bit it will fit in the vellajo bottles wich is handy because some of them have a lot in them and a quick shake never mixes it
 

RocketSilo

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Jan 22, 2011
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in the states you can find them in the dollar type stores as a "drink mixer".. it has a little spring on the end you simply pop off , for a couple dollars, well worth getting.
 

gallstone

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Jan 29, 2012
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I have a question about base-coats.

I'm kind of a novice. I used to do cars a long time ago, but wasn't too demanding about the quality. Now I'm trying to get my skills up to apply to a bunch of Maschinen Krieger kits I bought...

Anyway I was working on a some armor and I put a base coat of black Vallejo on it. And then (after it had dried) put a couple of coats of Tamiya acrylic paint on it (out of a spray can, don't have an AB yet). Then I put on a coat of clear (I think it was umbroll) and started doing the detailing...

I had masked off and painted some parts, but when I took the masking tape off, all the layers came off right down to the plastic...
What did I miss? I read (on the Vallejo base coat can) the model needed to be degreased and I washed the sprueus before I started, but didn't wash the assembled model. Is that something you guys would do? and if so, how?

A tried masking other bits (this was ruined and had turned into an experiment anyway) and I put the tape on some cloth a couple of times to diminish the adhesiveness, but still all the paint came off...

Hope you can help.

Thanks!
 

tfish

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May 22, 2012
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hi,
i am just getting back into model building and at this time i am enjoying building military aircraft. my problem is recently i purchased a masking tape for scale models and the adhisive residew is on my perfect paint job. i,ve been all over the place trying to find out how to safely remove it so i can paint the next color without ruining the first one. help!!!!!!!!!!!
 
S

ScaleModelMadman

Guest
gallstone said:
I have a question about base-coats.

I'm kind of a novice. I used to do cars a long time ago, but wasn't too demanding about the quality. Now I'm trying to get my skills up to apply to a bunch of Maschinen Krieger kits I bought...

Anyway I was working on a some armor and I put a base coat of black Vallejo on it. And then (after it had dried) put a couple of coats of Tamiya acrylic paint on it (out of a spray can, don't have an AB yet). Then I put on a coat of clear (I think it was umbroll) and started doing the detailing...

I had masked off and painted some parts, but when I took the masking tape off, all the layers came off right down to the plastic...
What did I miss? I read (on the Vallejo base coat can) the model needed to be degreased and I washed the sprueus before I started, but didn't wash the assembled model. Is that something you guys would do? and if so, how?

A tried masking other bits (this was ruined and had turned into an experiment anyway) and I put the tape on some cloth a couple of times to diminish the adhesiveness, but still all the paint came off...

Hope you can help.

Thanks!

Can't really say what happened, obviously the initial base coat didn't stick to the plastic. Was it Vallejo primer, or just Vallejo black paint?

I've never personally had masking tape pull off paint right to the plastic.



tfish said:
hi,
i am just getting back into model building and at this time i am enjoying building military aircraft. my problem is recently i purchased a masking tape for scale models and the adhisive residew is on my perfect paint job. i,ve been all over the place trying to find out how to safely remove it so i can paint the next color without ruining the first one. help!!!!!!!!!!!

Did you try your finger, rolling it into little 'snots' and removing it that way? An eraser maybe? Warm soapy water and a soft cloth?
 

Glorfindel

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May 2, 2011
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1,501
gallstone said:
I have a question about base-coats.

I'm kind of a novice. I used to do cars a long time ago, but wasn't too demanding about the quality. Now I'm trying to get my skills up to apply to a bunch of Maschinen Krieger kits I bought...

Anyway I was working on a some armor and I put a base coat of black Vallejo on it. And then (after it had dried) put a couple of coats of Tamiya acrylic paint on it (out of a spray can, don't have an AB yet). Then I put on a coat of clear (I think it was umbroll) and started doing the detailing...

I had masked off and painted some parts, but when I took the masking tape off, all the layers came off right down to the plastic...
What did I miss? I read (on the Vallejo base coat can) the model needed to be degreased and I washed the sprueus before I started, but didn't wash the assembled model. Is that something you guys would do? and if so, how?

A tried masking other bits (this was ruined and had turned into an experiment anyway) and I put the tape on some cloth a couple of times to diminish the adhesiveness, but still all the paint came off...

Hope you can help.

Thanks!

tfish I think I can help shed some light on what happened to your base coat. I think, I stress this, think one problem might be the masking tape your using. You should be masking off with either Tamiya tape or 3M Blue Masking tape which they now make with an even lower tack then the original. The second part, and more importantly, is the mold release on the plastic itself. If the parts aren't washed in a de-greasing dish-washing soap the mold release will still be present deep within the surface of the plastic. This the paint/primer cannot adhere to. What appears to be dry will actually lift because the mold release has no tooth for the paints to bond to. So what happens next is when you pull off your tape the mold release gives what ever paint is on it right back to the tape.
As a rule of thumb I always wash a model before I start construction. But I'm anal like that. Any liquid dish soap will do as long as it has de-greasing formulization. I soak the sprues in a pan for about 30 minutes in warm water...never hot....then let them air dry on a towel, sometimes over night.
 

SrsBidness28

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May 31, 2012
Messages
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I am getting back into building models again after a 20 year hiatus, and am looking to build my skills. I have done quite a bit of research on painting, but am having some issues. The biggest question I have is how long should I wait between coats for wet sanding (primer, base coat, and clear coat).

Also, I have seen a fair amount about Future. Does that replace something like clear coat in the rattle can? Or is it used in conjunction.

Here is the process for painting as I understand it:

Primer
Sand (400 grit)
Primer
Wet Sand (400 grit)
Primer
Sand (600 grit)
Base Coat
Sand (800 grit)
Base Coat
Sand (800 grit)
Base Coat
Sand (1000 grit)
Clear Coat
Clear Coat
Clear Coat
Not sure but I think this is where I am supposed to use rubbing compound and polish, but is this where Future would fit in?

One more question - is there a general rule of thumb on drying times before I can wet sand? I know primer is going to dry quicker than base coat, but I also don't want to wait as long for primer as I do for base coat.

Sorry for the long post, but I have a ton of questions (this only scratches the surface).
 

dizz16

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Nov 27, 2012
Messages
8
Hi all,

Found the right place for my post :)

I need some help please. I bought a Badger airbrush and jump straight in to give my 1st model (F-15) a base coat with a enamel paint. I found it very hard to clean the airbrush and the model feel very "sticky" in a sense even after 5-6 days.

I started to practice on a piece of paper/cardboard/off-cut plastics etc, and changed over to Tamiya's waterbased paints...for me at the moment it is just a lot easier to clean the airbrush afterwards.

So my question is, now that I have an enamel base coat on my F-15, how do I go about to paint it with a waterbase paint...is this even possible? My panels are already not too visible (think I got a too think base coat on) and I don't want to do something wrong going forward....

Any help please?
 

dizz16

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Nov 27, 2012
Messages
8
Hi guys, sorry I dont want to bump this post, but I really need some help with my question above...I can't go any further without knowing how to proceed. Really hope someone can shed some light on my issue.

Happy days and keep on modelling!
 
S

ScaleModelMadman

Guest
I have covered enamels with acrylics no problem as long as the enamels are dry and have completely gassed out.

However, if your paint is still sticky to the touch after five days or more, something else is wrong.

If your panels are already not visible, any more coats of paint will hide them even more.

Personally, I would recommend just forging forward with the enamels as the finish and saving the acrylics for your next build, or if the enamels are still 'sticky' consider stripping them.
 

dizz16

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Nov 27, 2012
Messages
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Ken Abrams said:
.... or if the enamels are still 'sticky' consider stripping them.

Hi there, thanks for the advice. I think I can manage with another thin layer, but I'd like to know what you mean by stripping them? I guess it is taking off the enamel, but can you please explain the process?
 
S

ScaleModelMadman

Guest
Sorry no, I have never stripped paint (and yes, that means take it off)

...but there are threads here and all over the internet about it using oven cleaner and similar products to remove the paint down to the plastic.
 

jonjon

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Feb 18, 2013
Messages
7
Ok, before I order any paint, mainly Vallejo paints. I've notice that they have Model Air, and Model Color paints, whats the difference between them? Can I use Model Air type paint for paint brush too? or would I need to use Model Color instead? lol...and Model Wash? huh?

thanx
 

spud

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model air is for the airbrush but can still be brush painted. the wash is just like the AK products just by a different company
 

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