Hs 129B-2 Rudolf-Heinz Albert Ruffer.

[Aeroteto]

this is my Hs 129.
I will use the Hasegawa kit 1/48 and sets from Eduard and CMK.
This is the Hs 129B-2 of Rudolf-Heinz Ruffer Albert, but not the classic red J but the lesser known red G , just for a change.
I add the CMK resin interior, and opened the radio bay and area of the fuel tank of the left wing.
Glued wings and stabilizers, so from here I'll upload progress.

resin parts leave much space, not so suited well; again Krazy-Glue putty to the rescue.
First applied with a cement spatula that are sold in dental deposit stores, and then ¨wet¨ the spatula with alcohol to smooth as much as possible the putty, for once it dries, sand as little as possible, in fact almost sits almost alone.
With that unions are almost perfect.

Cut the flaps and elevators, to place resin replacements, but they left some big holes.
So I shaped and also fill the holes with putty.
First applied and then after an hour * sand * with a swab, well many swabs, soaked in alcohol, to create the convex shape of this part of the wing.

 

[Ferris928]

This looks VERY interesting. Please continue.

 

[Aeroteto]

thanks Ferris
It's almost a requirement that Hasegawa kits have excellent fit into large parts, but small parts fit very poorly, sometimes leaving gaps steps horrible or difficult to fill by the level of detail of the area.
So you have to fill and scribe the lost detail in sanded.

In some parts eject pin marks are very visible, so I'll also fill these before proceeding to paint.
my filler works very well this kind of imperfections.

This kit in particular has a very high level of detail, the details are very fine and well made.
When I buy it; I also buy a set of True Details resin wheels, but the kit wheels detail resulted from a higher level.
I think it's a five star Hase kits I've assembled.

For the main weapon, I will replace the Borsig MK 103 cannon kit by one brass Schatton Modellbau brand.
The level of detail of this gun is very good, and lift this area of ​​interest, by the way these guns are nothing expensive.

 

[Ferris928]

For the main weapon, I will replace the Borsig MK 103 cannon kit by one brass Schatton Modellbau brand.
The level of detail of this gun is very good, and lift this area of ​​interest, by the way these guns are nothing expensive.

WOW! that's a striking difference!

 

[Chris S]

This looks like an interesting build ....keep it coming

Chris.

 

[WayneBt]

Nice gun! amazing improvement from the kit version


Wayne

 

[Aeroteto]

Hey Gents, thanks for your comments.
The model brings molded dials.
These did not fit in the cockpit so a very ingenious solution was place them in the engine nacelles facing the pilot.
The model ones are very large, so I substituted with photo etch with acetate dials.

Now place the control surfaces from CMK resin, these are not the big deal, just Hase modified pieces.

Also test fit the wing tank , this had to be sanded a lot to make fit into place.
The CMK set gives the two tanks but just wanted to use one.
The detail of these pieces is very good.

 

[JMac]

Seriously solid work on the 129 Aeroteto. The AM add-ons look great.

Jason

 

[Peppylepugh]

This is shaping up to be quite the centerpiece. Aeroteto.
The attention to detail shines through.
I'll watch this, if you don't mind. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Aeroteto]

Thanks a lot guys, you´re very kind.
For engine exausts I use stainless steel tube, but I had to work them so they looks convincing.
First sand blast tube with 150 microns aluminum oxide at 60 psi.
This eliminated polish and textured the metal.
Then place the tube in open fire for 5 min.



On the left you see the metal sandblasting and right is oxidized by heat.
From the results decided to give longer exposure to flame, so I left it another 5 min.
Here is the result after + - 10 min.



As you can see the rust is uneven, because exposure to the flame is not.
Zone that turn white rust much more than those who only turn red.
Chromatically interesting, an accidental result interesting.
The final tones resemble those delivery by Moskit, but homemade.







I'm doing the MK 103 cannon to leave open the gondola, I have not taken photos but there is more or less, still lacks many details.
I will cover an opening that is not in the photos of the actual gondola.
And I'm still working on the imperfections of the fuselage.

Engine covers need lots of work to fit.
You have to seal the seams of the two halves, then seal the joints of ribs that go up, plug holes, replace parts, etc..
For air filters use pieces of Eduard, I found that look better than plastic.

I keep preparing pieces for painting and now I continue with photo etches.
Not many and finished yesterday, but some folds required.
To cut; I use the Aeroteck tool, and for folds use the Mr. Fold-It; is a very simple but very efficient tool.
Here are the pictures:

 

[Tailor]

Most excellent craftsmanship!
Bravo Zulu!
Guido

 

[PANZERMAN]

Cool plane. Nice work with the Aftermarket goodies. Very sweet brass canon. Bill

 

[Aeroteto]

Thank you!!
Add some brass wire to the main undercarriage for the brake lines.
Nothing fancy.
And dry fitting, just to be sure no problem is ahead.

Replace the plastic pitot with a needle and insert a piece of brass wire.
Also the boarding ladder was cast in brass.
This is not in order to enhancing the appearance of the model, but to make it more sturdy and durable in contests, I use the technical steps of the lost wax brass for dental practice that is harder and melts very easily.
Here are the pictures, the pre-lined up, after cut and clean the brass piece.
Usually I use the kit part as the master to be cast.

Well so far I've only glue the ladder, the pitot and windshield, I painted it RLM 66.

Paint of RLM 02 radio bays and wing tank bay.
This piece seems more like a concrete cistern than a piece of metal, I don´t liked the work of CMK here.

For the rest I could only give the base color, I have not progressed at all.

 

[Ferris928]

Keep it up!

 

[Chris S]

Excellent work ,all the improvements are first class ...keep at it

Chris.

 

[JMac]

This totally rocks Aeroteto. Love the investment/lost wax cast part, the scratched parts look sharp too.

Jason

 

[PANZERMAN]

Cool, casting your own detail parts.......Wow! You are definitively going to the Maximum on
this build. Keep up the fantastic work. Bill

 

[Aeroteto]

Thanks guys!! ;D
Well I had painted RLM65 the belly and yellow parts of the plane.
Just do not take pictures of the process, I also painted the RLM 71 and mask to paint RLM 70.
Use the schematic drawings based on Hasegawa instruction sheet, not hard but very tedious to putting strips of masking scheme.
Apply thinned Gunze RLM 70 with lacquer thinner. Do not use a lot of pressure and deposit the paint in thin layers.

Ok. decals are on, and model was sealed.
Now I will apply my technique for weathering.
Nothing flamboyant, just pastel powders, enamel washes and some Airbrush job.
Nothing pre-mix or from the big brands, I mix my own shades, I found it more tonal rich.

Now I´ll apply the weathering using the modular technique.
but again using only beasic materials, nothing pre-mixed.

 

[Ferris928]

Awesome work! Lovin' those panel lines! keep it up!

 

[Aeroteto]

Thanks Ferris.
I follow with the details.
Now paint and weather the engines.
you will not see almost nothing of them once mounted on the model.

I also painted the wheels and rims.

Finally detail and paint the landing gear.
I feel like it's taking forever, in a review I read that this kit is assembled very quick, but I think I'm a lousy modeler because I do not see the time to finish it.

Keep weathering the fuselage, a bit of dust here and there.

I use some pastels to simulate mud and grime on the wheels.

I fix the pastel dust to the wheels with a very thin mix of acrylic varnish.