Ertl Cuda build

Thereal9thdoctor

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2021
Messages
399
So I got this kit from a friend at work who has had it for almost 20 years and never built it. Not really a car guy but what the heck. SO... 20210705_144127.jpg

The kit.

20210705_144140.jpg

The finished chassis, graciously painted by my GF yesterday while I finished working on the vinyl Brundlefly kit. 20210705_144200.jpg

The body in process of priming. It was cast in yellow but I dunno if it'd look any good with just gloss slapped on bare plastic so decided to do it right. 20210705_144130.jpg

And the interior with base coat, which may just be final coat. The seats will go in after I detail paint.

I also have to scratchbuilt a gearshift since it was lost before getting to me. It won't look like the kit part, but hopefully will suffice.
 

Thereal9thdoctor

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2021
Messages
399
So maybe someone can answer this... i read years ago(and I mean like almost 20 years ago) in Finescale Modeler that you had to sand the primer coat, color coat and clearcoat each with at least 3 fine grades of sandpaper to get a realistic looking finish on model car bodies. Is that true? I hope not, because I don't wanna deal with that kind of thing. I am willing to lightly sand once the color coat between coat, and same thing for the clearcoat, but all that sanding they recommend is just overkill to me.
 
Last edited:

Thereal9thdoctor

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2021
Messages
399
Well... I just screwed up. Put the car together last night, and noticed a few spots in the finish that needed fixing.I had a hard time getting it together, so I decided to just lightly sand the spots and recoat this morning. Now I have used clearcoat gloss over clear parts before with no issue... but in this case it frosted the windows. :(

Any way I can save this?
 

urumomo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
Messages
2,880
I think that's an acrylic resin --- try carefully removing it from the windows with a swab or something wetted with 91% isopropyl alcohol .
 

urumomo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
Messages
2,880
Probably --- they're usually around a 70% solution since that's ideal for anti-microbial purposes . 50 -70 % for that since you need a water component for that purpose .
It will just be less aggressive .
 

Thereal9thdoctor

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2021
Messages
399
Probably --- they're usually around a 70% solution since that's ideal for anti-microbial purposes . 50 -70 % for that since you need a water component for that purpose .
It will just be less aggressive .
Yeah, so far its doing nothing. Would thinner work?
 

Thereal9thdoctor

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2021
Messages
399
20210706_114452.jpg

This is where its at now. Lightly sanding in a circular motion with 1200 paper, and polishing with a sanding stick that has a 2000-3000 grit side. I think if I had higher grits I could get this completely out.
 

urumomo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
Messages
2,880
Yes , I look up the MSDS then call Rustoleum to make sure .
It's an alkyd ( enamel ) so a paint stripper safe for plastic or the sanding that you're already into .
The Krylon , or one of the Krylons is a lacquer acrylic so the isopropyl would work -- but definitely not on an alkyd resin .
 

Latest posts

Top