Decaling, what am I doing wrong?

[stevieb54]

I am putting decals on this 68 Camaro kit. I tried Testors decal set when installing the decals to get the decal to conform to angles. Not sure about this but this product did absolutely nothing! They even claimed if you want it can be used to remove dried decals. Secondly what can I use now that I have a brittle overhang that if I use a razor it just chips in pieces and leaves a jagged edge. Is there a glue or better solution to get the decal to soften and wraparound the body panel? TIA.

 

[Tommergun]

I am putting decals on this 68 Camaro kit. I tried Testors decal set when installing the decals to get the decal to conform to angles. Not sure about this but this product did absolutely nothing! They even claimed if you want it can be used to remove dried decals. Secondly what can I use now that I have a brittle overhang that if I use a razor it just chips in pieces and leaves a jagged edge. Is there a glue or better solution to get the decal to soften and wraparound the body panel? TIA.

Are you starting with a glossy surface? Decals set better on smooth glossy surfaces.

I use Micro Set (under the decal) and then Micro Sol (on top). Micro Sol softens the decal to conform to the surface. Sometimes after several applications of Micro Sol you can roll a cotton swab over a stubborn decal to get it to conform.

 

[stevieb54]

No its fresh cured paint but its a satin surface. I have heard of the micro sol/set product, may need to try. My next project is a stripe decals around a Peterbilt with a sleeper with a few panels to align, but they are all flat so maybe it should be easier to manage. I thought I read somewhere one needs to be careful using the micro sol products because if not careful decals can be damaged. Any advice on that? TIA

 

[Tommergun]

No its fresh cured paint but its a satin surface. I have heard of the micro sol/set product, may need to try. My next project is a stripe decals around a Peterbilt with a sleeper with a few panels to align, but they are all flat so maybe it should be easier to manage. I thought I read somewhere one needs to be careful using the micro sol products because if not careful decals can be damaged. Any advice on that? TIA

I haven't really had any difficulty with the Set/Sol. I've damaged the decals before but I tend to lean towards it being the decal rather than the Micro Sol. I've had some really brittle decals in newer car kits. I guess you never know what you're gonna get. Sometimes I'll use more water instead of Micro Set with larger decals, easier to move them around, then I rely on the Micro Sol to conform it to the surface.

 

[Tommergun]

I haven't really had any difficulty with the Set/Sol. I've damaged the decals before but I tend to lean towards it being the decal rather than the Micro Sol. I've had some really brittle decals in newer car kits. I guess you never know what you're gonna get. Sometimes I'll use more water instead of Micro Set with larger decals, easier to move them around, then I rely on the Micro Sol to conform it to the surface.

Both newer kits. The van decals were extremely brittle and cracked and took several applications of Micro Sol. The Nova decals were easy.

 

[wjbrandel]

I use Micro Sol and Set, never had a problem with decals even the brittle ones. For a corsair that I did the decals were very brittle. It just took lots if Micro Sol and patience. Hope the Micro Sol and Set works for you.

 

[langy]

I'll second what the guys have said about micro set / sol, been using them for years and never had a problem,

As a quick fix you could make up your own version of micro set using a 50/50 ish mix of white vinegar and water,

Also found this, might be worth a watch.

 

[Littlemarten]

My experience is that Micro Sol/Set work on most decals, but not all. So I have a bottle of most decal setting solutions. What is best is to take out a decal that you won't be using (anything on the side of the paper on which the decals are printed, including the manufacturer's logo) and see how it reacts to the solutions on a piece of scrap. I start with old reliable (Micro Sol/Set), and if that doesn't work, I'll try one of the others until I find one that does.

I always apply decals to a gloss surface. The key here is to use a gloss that is not susceptible to the decal solvent. Since the demise of Future™, I've been using Holloway House™ Quick Shine™ Multisurface Floor Finish. So far, it's been impervious to every setting solution I've tried.

 

[Pantherman]

No its fresh cured paint but its a satin surface. I have heard of the micro sol/set product, may need to try. My next project is a stripe decals around a Peterbilt with a sleeper with a few panels to align, but they are all flat so maybe it should be easier to manage. I thought I read somewhere one needs to be careful using the micro sol products because if not careful decals can be damaged. Any advice on that? TIA

Definitely give the micro sol and set a go, stops alot of bad language. Pantherman

 

[stevieb54]

My experience is that Micro Sol/Set work on most decals, but not all. So I have a bottle of most decal setting solutions. What is best is to take out a decal that you won't be using (anything on the side of the paper on which the decals are printed, including the manufacturer's logo) and see how it reacts to the solutions on a piece of scrap. I start with old reliable (Micro Sol/Set), and if that doesn't work, I'll try one of the others until I find one that does.

I always apply decals to a gloss surface. The key here is to use a gloss that is not susceptible to the decal solvent. Since the demise of Future™, I've been using Holloway House™ Quick Shine™ Multisurface Floor Finish. So far, it's been impervious to every setting solution I've tried.

Ahaa maybe you just hit the proverbial nail. My surface is not glossy, it's a satiny finish. Maybe I should have gave it a clearcoat first the another clear after all decals! I ordered the micro sol/set, came yesterday Ill see if I can make repairs for now and know going forward. Thanks for everyones help.

 

[Crappy Builder]

Definitely give the micro sol and set a go, stops alot of bad language. Pantherman

I'm currently working on a 68 Camaro, for those that have read my posts, yes still working on that one. I've gotten around to applying the decals and I was really nervous about applying them. I've looked at several videos on YouTube about this particular model and the bad experiences that modelers have had with the decals. Now after all of that. I used the Micro Sol and Set and they came out beautifully. I didn't go cheap with them, cause hey, they're not that expensive. I even put some Micro Sol in my hot decal water along with a couple of drops of Dawn dishwashing liquid. Highly recommended it. Even a blind squirrel gets a nut every now and then.

 

[trekriffic]

I've had issues in the past with brittle decals. Then i discovered Liquid Decal Film. it's made by Microscale.
https://www.hobbylinc.com/microscal...MIoemClI_vjwMVxyrUAR2TKix6EAQYAiABEgJZR_D_BwE
Brush it on your decal sheet and give it 5-10 minutes to dry before soaking your decals and avoid the frustration of fragmentation.