Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build: Completed!

Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

Quaralane said:
Definitely a good approach to dealing with the flaws.
Thanks guy... I always like to completely think out a problem and test out everything I can to try and get the best effect. I just hope that when it's finished it will look the way I see it in my head! :)
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

Huge amount of work,impressive.
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

Testors Metalizer would solve your dome finish issues. I did a Silver Surfer with the stuff, works great for that polished metal look.
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

Ozzman78 said:
Testors Metalizer would solve your dome finish issues. I did a Silver Surfer with the stuff, works great for that polished metal look.

Yeah I was thinking about that too. I have used that before on a deloraen I was working on and was very impressed with the shine. I'll have to look into getting some of that.
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

Jamaicanmodels69 said:
Awesome job!
I hope you paint one leg in silver!!!!!!

Why? LOL Oh I get it... you want me to make the Michael Jackson droid version... the MJ-D2.... with the right foot cowling in sequins? I dunno if I'd be able to make him do the Moonwalk thou but it'd be funny to see! LOL
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

This is a truly uber detailing build. Thumbs up!
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

LrdSatyr8 said:
Jamaicanmodels69 said:
Awesome job!
I hope you paint one leg in silver!!!!!!

Why? LOL Oh I get it... you want me to make the Michael Jackson droid version... the MJ-D2.... with the right foot cowling in sequins? I dunno if I'd be able to make him do the Moonwalk thou but it'd be funny to see! LOL

I think he may have been referring to C-3PO?
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

ModelMakerMike said:
LrdSatyr8 said:
Jamaicanmodels69 said:
Awesome job!
I hope you paint one leg in silver!!!!!!

Why? LOL Oh I get it... you want me to make the Michael Jackson droid version... the MJ-D2.... with the right foot cowling in sequins? I dunno if I'd be able to make him do the Moonwalk thou but it'd be funny to see! LOL

LMAO... I have been so focused on R2 I completely forgot about 3PO! LOLOLOLOL Now it makes perfect sense! Yes... his leg is silver... hard to see in the photos but it's silver! ;D

I think he may have been referring to C-3PO?
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

Well... it's been a hectic few days lately. But I've been taking pics as I go so this will be a good update. I believe I've solved the problem with the Bare Metal Foil and the edges. By using the tackum glue that came with the gold leafing kit, I was able to get those edges down with no problem and I gotta say, this looks perfect for this scale.

r2-domefin.jpg


As you can see, I also got the lower ring done the same way. Took forever to get it to look right, but I think it came out pretty good. After getting it all tacked down I sealed the entire dome in Future Floor Wax and it should last a good long time!

Next I dove into some of the electronics. First things first thou... I needed a set of Helping Hands. Since I don't have the money to shell out for an actual Helping Hands set I decided to make my own. Here's what I did. I took an old desktop vise I had gotten a long time ago from Testors I think. Then I took a old wire coat hanger and cut off a straight piece. On the ends of the hanger wire, I soldered two alligator clips and then clamped the wire in the middle of the vise. And whaddya know... a pair of helping hands for basically nothing.

r2-helphand.jpg


When you stop and think about how much alot of these tools cost, I just saved about $50 on something I made myself that works the exact same way. Yeah I know... my desk is a mess, but you know what they say. A messy desk is the sign of a busy mind... I'm sure others would just say I'm a hoarder. Me, I just seem to know where everything is! :)

Anyway, now that I have my "Helping Hands" I can start doing some soldering without having to worry about having a third hand. Lemme start with I found this cool little plush toy R2-D2. What really made it neat was the fact that if you bumped it, it would make the distinctive R2 beeping sounds (I think there are about 4-6 different sounds on a loop).

r2-plush.jpg


But seeing as it only cost $3, I tore into it and ripped out the little sound circuit. The nice thing about this circuit was the fact that it has an actual speaker and it was the perfect size for fitting inside this kit.

r2-vc1.jpg


Most of these little things have that little piezo disc thing that don't sound good at all. But this really has a speaker and what I needed to do was hook up a wire to the activation switch.

r2-vc2.jpg


It's basically this little cylinder with a spring inside that when it's bumped or moved will make a temporary contact to turn on the circuit. Seeing as I don't think it would be a good idea that the only way to activate this thing would be to bump the whole thing I took two wires and soldering them to the spot where the cylinder is on the circuit board. Those wires will lead out to a button on the base that can be pressed to make him talk.

Once I had the wires on the board, I needed to affix the board to the back of the middle leg support so that you can open the back door panel and change the batteries out if needed. So taking some of my Magic Sculpt again (have I mentioned how much I love this stuff), I mixed up a bit and fashioned a nice little base on the back panel of the support. It was the perfect fit and I think it will work out wonderfully. I think I decided to leave the "bump" switch on the board for the time being. I can always remove it later, you can see it best in the photo.

r2-vc3.jpg


Now my friend Bryan is completely new to model building but is completely fascinated with this build, so this next part I did for his benefit but if anyone else gets any info out of it to, I hope it helps. He's getting his first kit in the mail soon and wanted to know what the "Dirty Thinner" technique is. So I put together a little video to show him. And for those of you who don't know already, it's a wash. A way of bringing out fine details already present in the surface of a model. There are many ways of doing it. Some people swear by using black pastel chalks scraped into a little bit of water and using that. I personnally find this method the fastest and easiest to do. Why? Because #1) You don't have to have anything extra that you don't already have available... #2) You don't have to prepare anything extra, because you've got the solution right in front of you during your painting, and #3) I discovered it on my own and seem to be a creature of habit. Here is a quick video to describe the technique I'm talking about.

The Dirty Thinner Technique

So... that will do for now. I'm waiting for some chips to arrive so I can start getting this light circuit to work. I swear it's gonna work before I finish it or I'll go insane! LOL Will post more later.
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

Nice update, and good use of that plush toy!
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

Grendels said:
Nice update, and good use of that plush toy!

Thanks... I figured this kit needed a little something extra and the toy was the perfect fit.
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

Alright... I'm slowly getting the body together. I finally got the grabber arm to fit into the compartment with the door shut. What I ended up doing was moving the notch where the support bar goes above the original hole. Basically where the little greeble goes on the inside that looks like two little blaster nozzles.


r2-compfix1.jpg



I placed the holding cap at the bottom of this notch. On the back of the holding bar is a flat piece that fits behind the holding cap to hold it upright. When you extend the arm out, you lift up the back and slide the flat part under the holding cap and it will remain extended until you fold it back into it's place. Simple little design. Worked pretty well.


r2-compfix2.jpg

r2-compfix3.jpg



I had to cut the original piston part in half almost but with the arm extended, it looks pretty good and everything will close up properly (I couldn't put the little greeble of the tank in there because the room was extremely limited, and it wouldn't shut with it in).


r2-compfix4.jpg

r2-compfix5.jpg



The next thing I noticed when going over my reference pics was that the builders put a headphone jack and a switch on the bottom of the body cowling.


r2-refpic1.jpg



I don't know why, but I think it has something to do with being able to charge or program the droid while in production.


r2-refpic2.jpg



It also looks like they moved the jack from the front to the side because the front has a big empty hole there. So in order to make this baby look as accurate as possible... I placed both of these little details on the cowling.


r2-headjack1.jpg

r2-headjack2.jpg



Came out looking pretty good althou I think my switch looks a little larger, but it don't look too bad. That's all for now. Still waiting on those chips to come in. Lemme know what you all think!
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

Holy cow.....you are going for real accuracy!
Even putting in both Jack holes, and the little power switch!
You could be a new hero of mine!!!!!
;D ;D
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

ModelMakerMike said:
Holy cow.....you are going for real accuracy!
Even putting in both Jack holes, and the little power switch!
You could be a new hero of mine!!!!!
;D ;D

LOL... Thanks bro! Just trying to get it as detailed as possible! :)
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

SUCCESS!!! YUREKA!!! FINALLY!!!!!!!! I got my 4060 chips today in the mail and immediately began to mess with them. Using Grendals awesome LED lighting tutorial as a guide. You do some amazing work John... thanks guy... your vids are really informative... you can check it out here:

Lighting Tutorial: 4060 Pro's and Con's

I was finally able to get the lighting circuit to do what I wanted it to do (well as close as I could get to it anyway) and I made one set from one chip (the 3 logic and 2 mood lights) working. So now all I gotta do is transfer the entire thing to a perf board twice and I should have the entire lighting set up and ready to run! So without further ado, here's the video of the working circuit I got actually working!

Working R2 Circuit

Oh and Tom, I definately plan on getting a bag of chips and a bag of leds from ya soon... just have been really strapped lately. If any of you out there want to give this kinda thing a try, I highly suggest getting a bag of chips and Leds from ModelManTom... You can get his stuff here:

http://modelersbrand.com

OK... now things should really start moving along. This has been driving me absolutely CRAZY trying to get this to work and I would like to thank both JOhn and Tom for all your advice and help in trying to get this circuit of mine to work. Now that it does, I can finally move forward! More to come!
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

Your welcome for the help! I just want to see this thing all lit up and blinking.
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

Grendels said:
Your welcome for the help! I just want to see this thing all lit up and blinking.
'
Me too... I've been going crazy trying to get this lighting circuit finished just so I can see it blinking. Trust me... as soon as I got it done, I'll be posting a vid of it!
 
Re: Classic MPC C-3PO and R2-D2 uber detail build

I've spent the last couple of days transferring my new circuit design to perf board. But to give you all an idea of how the circuit is set up, here's the schematic:


r2-circuitv2.jpg



My soldering skills leave alot to be desired. I haven't done this much soldering since I was a boy making kit radios. But back then I had the advantage of having much better eyesight! Something I discovered with these particular chips is that you don't need a resistor or a capacitor to make them work. I found a set of 5 of these CD4060BE chips on eBay for just under $4.00 and they were awesome! So, after testing everything out on the breadboard, I let it run most of the day to see if it would burn out or faulter in anyway, thank god, everything stayed working and flashing with no problems!


r2-cirv2bb.jpg



Here we go... I began by soldering in the main power leads.


r2-cirsold1.jpg

r2-cirsold2.jpg



Next, I began soldering all the LED leads where they should go.


r2-cirsold3.jpg

r2-cirsold4.jpg



I'm hoping I don't have a crossed connection somewhere. My soldering skills aren't the best. If this fails I'll probably end up wiring everything together off board and just stuff it all up under the dome. Next I'll be soldering all the LEDs and then I'll test it out. Wish me luck!
 

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