Bob T
Well-Known Member
Try search for Staggerwings for sale. Turned up quite a few, and the photos are very detailed. Mostly restored planes, but still useful.
Group Build: Biplane - barnstormer to fighter
- Thread starter BarleyBop
- Start date
Bob T
Well-Known Member
Ha! you're a mind reader too!
I haven't been through all the rigging vids yet, since that was a long way off for me.
But having worked a bit with brass lately, an idea has been percolating:
- what if I drilled small holes at the attachment points,
- cut the rods a fraction bigger than the span they are meant to cross,
- introduce one end just far enough to get the other into position,
- then average out the depth each is embedded,
- add a drop of ultra thin CA at each end,
- voilà!
Edbert
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I see what you did there!
Looks good though! Have you gotten to the internal brace for the windshield? Mine ending up snapping and I tossed it in disgust.Took me at least 30 minutes to get it to fit. It wasn't even close.
Edbert
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I've seen lots of warnings about MiniArt kits, but they mostly refer to armor/wehicles. I just saw one of my favorite youtubers build a Dora from MiniArt and it looked excellent. Guess the frustration levels with that kit maker depends on which kit?Suggestion for your next kit, then: a MiniArt M3 light or medium tank with interior
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Bob T
Well-Known Member
Can't wait....
Jakko
Well-Known Member
No, that has a V8 instead of a radial engine
A what Dora? Fw 190 D? (Because without context, that name makes me think of the railway gun, but MiniArt has no kit of that.)
On the skill level of the person building the kit, I'd say. Or rather, on what those people think their own skill level is. I find MiniArt kits to be "not easy" to build, which is not the same as "difficult" — but modellers who've only recently graduated from Tamiya kits likely find them rather more challenging.
Bristol Mercury air-cooled, 9-cylinder radial piston engine.
...OOB, painted, no weathering, exhaust stubs to be installed once in the cowling.
...OOB, painted, no weathering, exhaust stubs to be installed once in the cowling.
Looks good. They're neat engines, it's cool the way they could just stack the engines for more power.
Bob T
Well-Known Member
Getting close to primer time, but unless the humidity doesn't drop soon, it may be awhile.
... No matter how many gun barrels and exhaust pipes I've drilled out and reamed, always a bit nervy...
Those are nicely centered
Bob T
Well-Known Member
Primed the engine, interior, and interior walls this morning! Finally!
kevin
Well-Known Member
EDUARD 1/48 Fokker D.VII OAW
This was a fun little build. It was my first kit from Eduard, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one.
I did have some problems with the decals, my clear coat, and some sloppy glue. I managed to fix them well enough and I'm mostly happy with the build. I only wish now I would have gone with a larger scale, I think I could have done better.
The instructions say Lt. Willhelm Leusch flew this particular plane in 1918. I looked him up and he was a WWI ace credited with five victories. He survived the war and was killed in a glider accident in 1921.
This was a fun little build. It was my first kit from Eduard, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one.
I did have some problems with the decals, my clear coat, and some sloppy glue. I managed to fix them well enough and I'm mostly happy with the build. I only wish now I would have gone with a larger scale, I think I could have done better.
The instructions say Lt. Willhelm Leusch flew this particular plane in 1918. I looked him up and he was a WWI ace credited with five victories. He survived the war and was killed in a glider accident in 1921.
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Well done!
Besides being an interesting subject with unusual camo, love the paintwork and weathering.
Somehow it really looks like a doped fabric skin!
kevin
Well-Known Member
That was part of my expert plan of being too heavy handed with my clear coat of Rustoleum 2X matte clear, it krinkled the camo decals and some of the paint.
Looking at the box art now, it would have been cool if Eduard supplied a pilot figure with that scarf and goggles.
Edbert
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Yes.
Edbert
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Eduard (aircraft is all I've built) are known for using super thin stickers with little carrier film. I'm wondering if this is why they gave you troublke?
The Wingnut Wings kit came with "Cartograph" which have a very good reputation, but they feel really thick to me and do not want to lay down on complex surfaces. Then again I always seem to have issues with stickers, so it is probably me. Seriously considering masking/painting the big ones right now.
kevin
Well-Known Member
Yes, the stickers were very flimsy, I ripped two of the crosses and a couple of the camo design for the underside of the wings. However, that certainly helped them lay down over the ribs on the wings to help show the detail. So I don't fault Eduard, I just need to be more careful.
Bob T
Well-Known Member
Pretty productive day, today...
Wow, a bench seat! Pretty much a minivan!
Nice build, I like the chipping on the cowling
Edbert
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The finest Corinthian leather!Wow, a bench seat! Pretty much a minivan!
(not a minivan, but what I thought of when seeing the seats)
Edbert
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I'm at a crossroads or critical decision point.
Not happy with the stickers, they are thick which helps me avoid tearing them, but they just refuse to lay down. Two days of Micro Sol, dozens of little holes poked to allow air out and solvent in, wiping with Q-tips as much and as firm as I dare. They will not lay down.
On top of that they are (IMO) just way too bright, really stark against the intentionally faded fabric.
^^^ What I mean about too bright, I could fade them with paint, but it would have to cover the whole aircraft or be noticeable.
^^^ What I mean about the bubbles air pockets and not laying down.
I've already cut circles with my cricut and confirmed the sizes are correct. I was considering going for it, ripping off the decals and painting. But the vinyl also does not adhere to the complex shapes/surfaces very well and I know there'll be overspray where the surface is not flat. So I ordered some sheets of Tamiya "tape", it is called film when not in a strip on a roll, but same stuff.
It will be here Wednesday, so I have to time to make up my mind and decide what to do.
Other do-dads in place and the tail is painted. I knew the stickers wouldn't work well there. What I did not know is that by choosing to leave the engine cover "removable" meant it could not be put in place. But that bridge has been crossed, cover is off and probably going to have to stay that way.
Not happy with the stickers, they are thick which helps me avoid tearing them, but they just refuse to lay down. Two days of Micro Sol, dozens of little holes poked to allow air out and solvent in, wiping with Q-tips as much and as firm as I dare. They will not lay down.
On top of that they are (IMO) just way too bright, really stark against the intentionally faded fabric.
^^^ What I mean about too bright, I could fade them with paint, but it would have to cover the whole aircraft or be noticeable.
^^^ What I mean about the bubbles air pockets and not laying down.
I've already cut circles with my cricut and confirmed the sizes are correct. I was considering going for it, ripping off the decals and painting. But the vinyl also does not adhere to the complex shapes/surfaces very well and I know there'll be overspray where the surface is not flat. So I ordered some sheets of Tamiya "tape", it is called film when not in a strip on a roll, but same stuff.
It will be here Wednesday, so I have to time to make up my mind and decide what to do.
Other do-dads in place and the tail is painted. I knew the stickers wouldn't work well there. What I did not know is that by choosing to leave the engine cover "removable" meant it could not be put in place. But that bridge has been crossed, cover is off and probably going to have to stay that way.
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Hmmm...watching closely as my Roden decals are bright as well.
Edbert
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Printing some turnbuckles in the meantime...
The smaller ones are probably going to be too small, do not think I can get a thread through the eyelet, or that it would hold up to tension from stretchable line.
These should work really well, from eyelet to eyelet is approximately 5mm. For some locations I'll have to cut them in half. But these are promising.
The smaller ones are probably going to be too small, do not think I can get a thread through the eyelet, or that it would hold up to tension from stretchable line.
These should work really well, from eyelet to eyelet is approximately 5mm. For some locations I'll have to cut them in half. But these are promising.
I agree with you about the brightness- it looks out of place compared to the paint. I'll have to remember this when I tackle one of my WN kits. Are the YT-ers using aftermarket decals?
