1/16 M3 Halftrack from AHHQ

Scale Model Addict - Model Tips, Guides, Tools & Tech, Tutorials, and Community

Help Support Scale Model Addict:

And order placed!
I don't know how long it will take to another country, but I know from experience that they have very good service within the Netherlands.

figure (very well) but he has the passenger window closed which makes the pose even weirder.
The driver seems to be pointing to something? Which is an odd pose if there's nobody looking at him or at where he's pointing. It needs one other figure at least, IMHO. Like you say, if the passenger armour were folded down, you could at least claim he's interacting with an unseen someone standing next to the vehicle, but not like this.

Will work on a custom color that "feels" right to me and proceed.
Like I said, Mr. Aqueous H52 Olive Drab (1) is a pretty good match, according to the article, but it's a little bright. If you get along with Tamiya acrylics, Mr. Aqueous should pose no problems at all — it's not the exact same paint (it smells different, which is a very good indicator), but it's very close in the way it handles.
 
Last edited:
I finally ordered it from "Most-Models.com" for same price. Also based in the Netherlands, and they have the Bismarck from Revell I was looking for (both kits on order now).

For the color, could also use Mr Color C12 Olive Drab (same than H52 but solvent-based lacquer rather than water-based acrylic).
Same color as much as I can say. And I used the C series quite often with very good results.

C12 & H52.jpg
 
I couldn't get their Mr. Color paints to work for me, whereas I really like the Mr. Aqueous. The colours should be identical if they have the same name, AFAIK.

This is what happened both times I tried spraying Mr. Color:

IMG_8246.jpeg


After my first try I asked on a forum, and tried the help I received, only to have exactly the same thing happen. Soon after, I gave away the couple of bottles of Mr. Color paint I had :)
 
whereas I really like the Mr. Aqueous
One of the greatest aircraft painters (IMO) is completely in love with the line of paints, so I do not doubt your claims. I understand they are harder to come by in the states, some colors at least, but I just searched and cannot have any H52 here for less then $10 and at that price it is 14 days away. To get it in next week I'm loking at $10 shipping. Those prices are for a single 10ml bottle too.

I'm pretty confident that I can mix my XF collection, I have a lot of the 23ml jars, and based on painting the frame and wheels, this kit will take at least 23ml, likely more. I did put the H52 on a "notify me" list with scalehobbyist, maybe they'll get it in stock in the next few weeks.

I've actually put the M3 away for now, wanted to finish up several 1/48 aircraft, the divebomber GB is one of the 4. Plus that Easy-Eight is starting to call my name :)
 
I couldn't get their Mr. Color paints to work for me, whereas I really like the Mr. Aqueous. The colours should be identical if they have the same name, AFAIK.

This is what happened both times I tried spraying Mr. Color:

View attachment 164948

After my first try I asked on a forum, and tried the help I received, only to have exactly the same thing happen. Soon after, I gave away the couple of bottles of Mr. Color paint I had :)
Weird.. I used Mr Color lacquer on half of my models and worked very well, using Mr Color Levelling thinner.
 
And I used XF62 on my Jeep Willy and M45A2. Color looks ok to me after light weathering, but I am not an expert.IMG_9682.jpgIMG_9923.jpg
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change.
I understand they are harder to come by in the states
They used to be impossible to get in Europe as well. I kind of wish I had come across them twenty, thirty years ago, but back then I only knew them from the colour indicators in some manufacturers' instructions, with no idea what paint this actually was.

I just searched and cannot have any H52 here for less then $10 and at that price it is 14 days away. To get it in next week I'm loking at $10 shipping. Those prices are for a single 10ml bottle too.
That sounds a bit excessive. Here, they cost about €3.25 to €3.50 for a 10 ml bottle, depending on where you buy them, which is around US$3.80 to US$4.10 at current exchange rates. But IMHO, postage is always the killer when buying paint — it's never cost-effective to order just one or two bottles. You either have to add them to an order for a kit, or buy enough paint in one go that the total postage comes to a reasonable amount.

I'm pretty confident that I can mix my XF collection, I have a lot of the 23ml jars, and based on painting the frame and wheels, this kit will take at least 23ml, likely more.
Beginning with XF-62 will get you a long way. Add in a little XF-1 black to make it a bit darker and then tone it down again with some XF-60 dark yellow, I'd say.

I used Mr Color lacquer on half of my models and worked very well, using Mr Color Levelling thinner.
On my first attempt, I first used paint thinner from a hardware store. That caused me to spray spiderwebs, even if I tried different air pressures. It was recommended to me to use Mr. Levelling Thinner, so I bought a bottle, tried that, and had the exact same result. I was clearly doing something wrong, but I had no reason to try and find out what because I have plenty of other paints that do work for me. My only reason for using Mr. Color was because I was painting a Japanese tank and had bought a paint set with the correct colours with it. What I ended up doing was just finding other paints I already had, which were close to the colours in the set, and spraying the model with those.
 
And I used XF62 on my Jeep Willy and M45A2. Color looks ok to me after light weathering, but I am not an expert.
I think lighhting has a lot to do with it. Even the two vehicles you show (appear to be the same setting too) look quite different in pictures based only on the lighting, direct sunlight versis shade I mean.
 
around US$3.80 to US$4.10 at current exchange rates.
Yup, that is what I was finding, Tamiya paint is not cheap either, maybe a little bit but I usually get the big jars. And slow shipping (10-14 days) was about $6 and fast shipping was $10 to even $15 for 3-day.

When I buy Tamiya paint that my LHS doesn't stock I can get free shipping if I order 10 or more 23l at a time or I can combine a jar here and there with a kit or two to get the total over $100 to save shipping with domestic mail-order.
 
Last edited:
And how much you pay the paint? I get the 10ml at €2.5 ($3) and €3.4 ($4) the 23ml
 
And how much you pay the paint? I get the 10ml at €2.5 ($3) and €3.4 ($4) the 23ml
If you're asking me, I get single 23ml bottles of XF for $3.80 and 10ml for $2.90. Which is the main reason for buying bigger ones. That does not include shipping.

If there's no urgency, I keep a list of colors I'm running low on, or if we're talking XF-1 and XF-2 I sometimes order two at once and order 10 at a time. There's an ebay store that sells 10x 23ml bottles for $44 including shipping, you just have to buy 10 at a time for that rate.
 
I get the 10ml at €2.5 ($3) and €3.4 ($4) the 23ml
I can remember when the 23 ml bottles cost 3.50 guilders … (ƒ1.00 = €0.45-and-a-bit.) Which was expensive compared to ƒ2 for a tin of Humbrol. Of course, if you correct for inflation, ƒ3.50 thirty years ago is circa €3.15 today.

I get single 23ml bottles of XF for $3.80 and 10ml for $2.90. Which is the main reason for buying bigger ones.
This is also exactly why I always buy 23 ml bottles if I can. But oddly, Tamiya sells some colours only in 10 ml, and of course not every model shop sells the larger bottles, or those may be out of stock for a colour you need.
 
I'm late to the party, Edbert, but this is looking good. I too got mine around the same time, huge box, lotza good stuff in there. Bookmarked!
 
The "bare" halftrack is going to look odd/wrong, so I purchased a resin set of "gear" to add at some point.

Casting looks good overall, excellent in some places, but the camo-net needs some help. I'm thinking cheesecloth at this point, but have plenty of time to decide.

1760906669955.png
 
Frickin' detail in this kit is over the top. These newer 1/16 kits bring lots of opportunities for even more detailing but some of it looks like it comes with a cost with the mold lines being in difficult places. Yikes.

Regardless......your progress is coming along well and I salute you for taking this big scaler on especially since you primarily build in the aircraft genre.
 
I asked AI for a part-count, there's nothing official, partially because there's more than one version in the box, but here's the answer...

Several modelers and hobbyists who have built the AHHQ 1/16 M3/M3A1 Halftrack kit have estimated the part count to be around 800 to 1,000 pieces. This includes:
  • Highly detailed interior and engine components
  • Multiple weapon systems and accessories
  • Clear parts, photo-etched details, and optional metal components
  • A seated driver figure and stowage options

While Andy's Hobby Headquarters hasn't published an official part count, the complexity and scale of the kit put it in the same league as other large-scale armor kits with similar part densities. Builders often compare it to Takom or Trumpeter 1/16 kits in terms of intricacy.

If you're planning a build, it's definitely a rewarding project — but be ready for a serious commitment in time and detail work.
 
I asked AI for a part-count, there's nothing official, partially because there's more than one version in the box, but here's the answer...
That's a pretty big ball park parts count alright. Outta keep you busy for quite a long time Ed.
 
One of my biggest gripes with this kit is the lone figure it comes with. I can accept one figure, and it is excellently molded, even the pose is dynamic/dramatic. But the pose is kind of weird at the same time. The driver has one hand on the wheel and is looking off to the side and pointing at 'something' at an odd angle, not out of the windshield or passenger side window, but at the A-pillar. I guess it would be okay if he was pointing at something and talking to (his mouth is open) someone, but there's no second figure.

You can find the build video from AHHQ on youtube. Andy built it with the passenger side window closed which just makes the figure look odder.

Well, it looks like the aftermarket is coming to the rescue...
https://armorama.com/news/m3a1-crew-and-canvas-top-in-1-16-scale

1765037130940.png
 
I agree with your assessment, Edbert. Ya, that's a funky issue to deal with, but might be ok with some alterations. My beef with Sol figs is the cost, they're too dang expensive for one figure, or even a set. It's becoming cost prohibitive for many people. To me, the quality of poses are not up to speed, some of the poses are stiff, unnatural. I'll be digging for a while before I settle on a scenario, because IMHO, the figures tell the story.
 
My beef with Sol figs is the cost
Not that a printer is cheap, but 3D printing might be the solution. High-end files are generally not free, but here are two different sets of figures for $29ea.

1765145580391.png


1765145600352.png


I'm wishing they did not have backpacks, but maybe with time I can modify them?

He's got a nice collection...
1765145724491.png


https://www.myminifactory.com/users/3Dimontis
 
Been messing around with resin printing. Lots of promise in making your own figures but...some of the files are pretty expensive, and creating them (the files) is WAAAY beyond my ability.

Still, lots of promise for sure, that set of 6 US infantry is roughly the price of a single figure from some vendors.

Anyway, back on the topic of the Halftrack, I'm leaning towards a medium detail on the engine. Been struggling to decide if I wanted to fully detail it or just close the hood. But I'm leaning towards neither. I think the hood can be built "removable". Not hinged, which would be correct, but something I can lift off or lay back down. I think I'll add moderate detail, hose clamps and fuel lines, maybe spark plug wires, easy stuff like that and call it a day.

One thing I want to do but have not figured out how yet (willing to bet there's a TY video out there) is dirty up the windshield but leave clean spots where the wipers run. The rest of the to-do list is paint and assembly. Sop back on the bench for a bit.

1769967173511.png
 

Latest posts

Back
Top