What tools/paints do I need to buy for Bandai kits ?

toyopl

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Hey guys, I currently collect actions figures but I cracked and ordered few Bandai kits, mainly Millennium Falcon.
I never did any scale modeling, I don't have any tools or knowledge, but I go on youtube and watch whatever I can on the subject.
Could you list what tools, paints, weathering effects would I need to purchase to build this and future sci-fi kits ?
I like buying quality tools, don't like to cheap out :)
 
;D ;D

That's a really broad question . You don't have anything ?

If you've watched YouTube vids you should have a pretty decent idea of the basics .
Knife and glue and you're on your way ! ;) Heh heh ..
You need to start with the basics of course and Bandai kits are probably a good starting point since they are well engineered and require less cleanup on average .


Tell me more 8) and we'll go from there ....
 
I agree look up youtube vids on basic model building. Your asking a big question that is hard to explain in text. Would be like writing a small book.

Exacto knife, CA glue (like zapp a gap green), decal setting solution, fine grit sand paper and some tools you will need to build any model. More advanced things like filler putty, weathering pigments, and washes are optional for a new builder. You will need paint and primer. Acrylic or enamel, which is up to you. Both have ups and downs. I use only Enamel but many here use only Acrylic.
 
Thank you, I can pickup locally Iwata Neo airbrush and compressor for $100.
Would this be adequate to learn how to paint, I will be doing no more than 4-5 models a year.
 
I agree with the others... writing a complete list of all the tools and supplies you'll need would be like writing a small book. I've spent years putting together the tools I have and still find myself buying more for different jobs. But here's a good list of the basics that may get ya started if you have absolutely nothing:

1) Paint brushes - All sizes and shapes. For the beginner get the Testor's Hobby brush set as a good beginning!

2) Paint - When I first started I dealt with enamels mostly, basically because what you mix is the color you get. Acrylics tend to dry darker then what they are mixed. Get a paint set... basic colors mainly (black, white, blue, red, yellow)... experiment with mixing colors.. gloss colors, flat colors... get them all! Testor's makes quite a few paint sets in different "themes" like military, aircraft, and naval color sets. Basically you can never have too many paints in different colors and as long as you have the 5 basics you can always mix a color to what you need. There are 3 basic types of paints Enamels, Acrylics and Lacquers. Each have their own properties and each can be used together to create interesting effects. But with any kind of paint, always get a healthy supply of exact same thinner/paint remover/spirits that goes with that paint.

3) Knives - Hobby knife sets are all over the place... X-Acto brand tends to dominate the market but they also come in various sizes and types. Can never have too many... they tend to dull over use and time. Always good to have a backup when that happens.

4) Glues - All different kinds of glues should be added to your list... Superglue, Model Glue, Epoxy glue, Elmer's White Glue. Each has its advantages and disadvantages and they keep coming out with all kinds of new glues. Just depends on what material you're working with to know what type of glue you will need. Grab as many different types as you can for your toolbox... you'll end up using them all at some point!

5) Tweezers/Clamps - This again is a wide variety... from Clothespins to Industrial Clamps... Hemostats to eyebrow tweezers... again... you can never have to many in your toolbox.

6) A Dremel - This is by far one of the most versatile and valuable tools in my toolbox. Get all the bits and attachments for it you want/can. You'll use them!

7) An Airbrush and a GOOD compressor - These come in so many different types and sizes... from the cheap plastic Testor's ones to the expensive industrial ones. Everyone is looking for the BEST OF THE BEST but really, it doesn't matter. Its what you feel comfortable with. I've used a cheap $40 airbrush and have gotten the same results that someone else that has a $500 airbrush and compressor has. Why? Because I was comfortable with it. Some are better then others, I agree, but until you get proficient using one, start with a cheap one and then move up to something better. Or just stick with rattle cans! You'll be glad you did... fixing a more expensive airbrush because you didn't understand how to work it can be just as expensive as buying a new one.

8.) A Good Light - Have a good light over your workbench. Use a DAYLIGHT bulb in it. You'll be glad you did.

9) Sandpaper - Go nuts getting every type of sandpaper you can get your grubby little mittens on. Don't just think of sandpaper but also sanding sticks, emery boards, sanding sponges. I just got this nifty little battery operated nail polisher which is basically a tiny sanding machine for women's fingernails. I LOVE THIS THING!

10) Clippers - You should get a good set of sprue clippers to cut the parts off the sprues. They make some good ones specificially designed for this and they are worth it but you could always use a good pair of fingernail clippers as well. Wire cutters work if they are sharpened as well.

11) Odds and Ends - You'll find you can use just about anything to spruce up your model so collect little odds and ends pieces from around your house like paperclips, wires, straws, rubber bands, old FOR SALE signs, toothpicks, old credit cards, name badges, bottle caps, tuna cans, pens, pencils, medicine cups, pill containers, wire coat hangers, you name it! You'll probably find a use for it at some point in your build! Trust me!


A bit of advice... don't assume that you have to buy the best of the best and most expensive anything in this hobby. Just because it's expensive doesn't mean its better. You'll find you spend enough money on the model kits to have to justify buying a $700 table saw to cut one part. Don't make sense when if you take your time you can cut the exact same part using a hacksaw that costs $5. This is a hobby of looking outside the box. Sometimes you can spend days looking for the right tool for a job when you can have probably made a tool yourself to do that same task. Don't be afraid to make your own tools. You'd be surprised how just using a paperclip or a bit of frayed wire from an old phone cord can make the difference between a model looking like a toy and one looking like a museum piece! Don't rush into anything... study the assembly instructions and compare them to the parts while they are still on the sprues. Visualize how they fit together and gather reference material for the project you are working on and keep it close so you can look at it while you're building. My best bit of advice that I wish I could have given myself when I first started is LEAVE THE PARTS ON THE SPRUES UNTIL YOU'RE READY TO GLUE THEM TOGETHER! Paint the parts on the sprues... then you don't have to hold them and mess your paint job up!

Well not quite a small book, but a good sized pamphlet! LOL Hope this helps you get started and gives you some better idea of what you'll need! I hope everyone else feels free to add to this list! This is just the bare basics to get started... you'll find your toolbox grow with every model you build! Wait til you get into lighting then we'll talk LEDs and Fiber Optics! LOL
 
Wow, what a great post, thank you.
I think you gave me the basics and I can figure out the rest now :)
My biggest problem ? What paint to buy for Millennium Falcon color ? :)
 
Right now... the best paint to get for any falcon build is the DOA Falcon set... You can find them here: http://www.starwars-doa.co.uk/doa-starwars-millennium-falcon-sets-2-c.asp however, they are seriously backlogged and it's one guy doing them. Took me a couple of months to get my order, but they are well worth it and true to the original colors that were used on the original model. DeAgostini just released their Tamiya Paint Set for the Falcon but I'm not as thrilled about them. They are matched as close as possible to the original paints but I still feel they are off and are quite expensive. The magazines have a paint guide of colors that should match, but again, it's difficult to match colors to a prop that was made 40 years ago. Not to mention that the original paints that were used are no longer being made. So... if you want my honest opinion... get the DOA set... its well worth the wait and all the colors are the closest to the original colors that were used. Now for the rest of the various kits, it truly depends on what you feel comfortable with. Here's the skinny on the various types of paints to use and their quirks/benefits:


Acrylics: Acrylic paints are water based... meaning they are pretty easy to clean up after. Just dip your brush in a tub of water and viola! They also dry relatively fast... usually within a couple of minutes... however, they don't cure for about 24 hours and when they do the colors are alot darker then when they first went on. Acrylics are awesome for flexible plastics like latex model figures because they have a plasticine consistancy when fully cured but require the surface to be roughed up a bit so they can "grip" it or the paint will peel off in sheets. Once dry you can't wash them off with water thou, you have to use rubbing alcohol. It's difficult to mix acrylic paints because you've got to mix ALOT of the paint and it takes awhile to allow each "test" to cure completely before finding out the color that it ends up being. When it comes to Acrylic paints get premixed colors. They are terrible for color mixing (making your own colors).


Enamels: Enamels have Acrylics beat in color mixing... what you mix is what you get. If you make perfect shade of blue on your palette you can rest assured that it will remain that color even after the paint has dried. They do dry moderately fast (usually about 20-30 minutes) and cure within the same time period (about 24 hours). Cleanup is a bit more complicated thou. They require paint thinner to cleanup and if you forget to clean your brush thoroughly you might as well just throw it away. They are a bit tougher to remove from a model once they have cured, but it can be done.


Lacquers: These are the roughest of all. They are mainly used for clear coating but I have seen some color lacquer paints. When they are cured they are rock solid and nearly impossible to remove. Most Lacquer paints are oil based and require white spirits to clean up with. However they are pretty thick and aren't as easy to work with as some of the other types of paint. Lacquers take a couple of hours to dry.


Oils: These can be the hardest paints to work with of them all. They have some very vivid colors, but take a very long time to dry. I've seen some take as long as a few months to dry, but they have come out with some fast drying oils recently but they still require at least 24 hours to dry at all (and that's not curing). Most oils will come in a tube and will require you to "mix" your own colors. They require you to thin them down, again with white spirits.

Now... with all these types of paints you can achieve some pretty cool effects. One problem with sticking to just one type is that if you paint say a yellow panel using just enamel paint, and then go over that panel with say a blue enamel you could end up with a green panel because the same types of paints can run or interact with each other. However, if you put down a yellow Acrylic paint and then go over it with a blue Enamel, you don't have to worry... they won't mix. Comes in handy for making a good worn look when you can remove one color with thinner and it won't effect the color below.

So my best advice is get to know all the different types of paints and learn how they interact with each other. Mix them, paint with them, and experiment with them. The more you learn about them the more comfortable you will feel about them and the better your work will become.
 
Wow, that's expensive :)
I think I'll leave it for maybe a year or two once I know what's I'm doing.
For now I'm gonna go with Vallejo or Tamiya as they're probably available in hobby shops near me, just need to figure out which color to get to get it fairly close.
 
Here's a great Paint Matching Guide by dtssyst


Reefer White
Floquil Enamel F110011 Reefer White
Model Master Acrylic 4873 Reefer White
Model Master Enamel 2720 Classic White

Concrete
Floquil Enamel F110082 Concrete
Polly Scale Acrylic F414317 Concrete
Model Master Acrylic 4876 Concrete
Model Master Enamel 1726 Light Sea Grey

Reefer Yellow
Floquil Enamel F110031 Reefer Yellow
Polly Scale Acrylic F414122 Reefer Yellow
Model Master Acrylic 4879 Reefer Yellow
Model Master Enamel 28104 Chrysler Yellow

Caboose Red
Floquil Enamel F110020 Caboose Red
Poly Scale Acrylic F414128 Caboose Red
Model Master Acrylic 4880 Caboose Red
Model Master Enamel 1705 Insignia Red

Grime
Floquil Enamel F110086 Grime
Polly Scale F414417 Acrylic Grime
Model Master Enamel 1733 Camouflage Grey
Scalecoat Enamel S116 R.R. Grime#1

Rust
Floquil Enamel F110073 Rust
Polly Scale Acrylic F414323 Rust
Model Master Enamel 1785 Rust

Primer
Floquil Enamel F110009 Primer
Model Master Enamel 1730 Flat Gull Grey (My observation, a shade to dark)
 
One tip with Tamiya paint, it goes though an air brush really well, and is easy to work with, but with brush painting, it can be a nightmare. It is partially a lacquer paint, which means that the bottom coats can come up as you apply a top coat. Acrylics and enamels won't do that.

Vallejo is great for brush painting, that is mainly what I use it for.
 
Yeah, picked up today airbrush/compressor.
Probably will pick up Vallejo Model Air and Vallejo surface primer, from googling a bit decided on these.
 
I hope you don't mind that I chime in here. I agree with most everything these guys have said, but I have one addition....I would HIGHLY recommend spending a few extra bucks and getting a quality sprue cutter. Through my years I have been through several cutters and just recently decided to spring for the "Xuron" brand professional cutters......Oh man....what a difference they make! Less than $20.00
 
Yeah I've been looking at some decent ones.
Pretty much decided on Tamiya 74035, looks like it's popular on youtube, price is pretty good at $30us
Was also looking at God Hand but at $70us it's just way too much, will be around $100canadian :(
Have to look at the one you posted.
 
toyopl said:
After painting do you need to put down clear coat ?

I would suggest doing so for several reasons:

1. decals adhere better to a glossy surface, so if you are using decals, you need to put a gloss coat down beforehand.

2. It will protect the paint from other steps. Weathering solutions, handling, and even decal solutions can slightly alter the look of the paint, so haveing a clear coat on helps protect the paint.

3. Washes flow better across a satin/gloss surface. You can still make them work on flat surfaces, but satin helps.

4. Finally, most varnishes have some UV protection, so it will help if you plan on displaying the model. It will also make it more durable in case you need to brush off any dust.
 
Ok, so so far I got this, I think I got the basic tools needed.

Iwata Neo Compressor/Airbrush
Vallejo Model Air Color Colour 71161 Airbrush Thinner
Airbrush Cleaner by Vallejo
2175ET Professional Sprue Cutter by Xuron
Airbrush Flow Improver 60ml by Vallejo
200ml Bottle Black Primer by Vallejo
Masking Tape 10mm by Tamiya
Masking Tape Refill 18mm by Tamiya
Vallejo Airbrush Cleaning Pot
Tamiya Accent Panel Line Black and Grey
Tamiya Glue regular and extra thin
Vallejo Varnish
Vallejo Model Air 16 color set 71178
K2 Medium Duty Excel Knife
4 Piece Stainless Steel Tweezers Set Excel
 
Abrasives ? sanding sticks and a few fine files . Flat and round at a minimum .
... and you'll eventually need a pin vice with some bits , but you can collect them as needed ..
 
Thanks, maybe I'll pick this up for sanding ? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CDR5K8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

What about weathering, what do you guys use ?
 
Get yourself an X-Acto hobby knife set from Walmart... I think they goor about $10... comes with multiple blades and 3 different handles and a nice wooden box to store it all in. They come in handy alot!
 

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