WARHAMMER fig painting???????????primer???????


my head is falling off my head
May 27, 2009
so im helping a friend paint his newly purchased warhammer figs and we were shocked and amazed at how expensive a can of GW chaos black is. 15 dollars at our local comic shop!!! He reluctantly bought a can and i'll admit it covers real nice and all that but there has got to be a cheaper way. Does regular old krylon primer or black paint give you the same results??? Will the citadel paints adhere as well to krylon pimer?
An advice would be most rad.
Just use regular old Krylon. Make sure you careful about spraying it thin like you would a model. Citadel stuff is just standard paint stuff just overpriced. Citadel paints isn't worth it in my opinion. I have a ton of it over the years just because I didn't know better but Valejo is much better. Heck, I use Tamiya or even Apple Barrel or Dick Blick Acrylic paints. The only thing about Citadel is the color schemes, but if you're good at mixing color, there really is no need to stick with just citadel paints either.

You can use any brand of stuff for figure painting that's acrylic. Since details are so small, you want to deal with thin stuff.

So yeh, for primer, just using krylon is fine. I use the stuff from I buy from Home Depot or the local Auto store. Just remember to spray further from the figures to you don't get build up but the same can be said for Citadel primers.
BTW, are they the plastic minatures? If so, you might not even need to primer it depending on the paints you use. Just wash the plastic pieces in warm water with a tiny bit amount of dish washing soap.
I am a Games Workshop stockist, sell all the products in my store. . .
GW is high priced. There said it. :eek:
The main reason to prime plastic, as far as I can see, is to allow the hard to reach spaces to remain in shadow. Metals are primed to help the paint adhere. Now, $15 for a can of primer! I didn't order it figuring that was way too high. Yep, had the guys screaming for it. I even stocked The Army Painter primer ($9) and then Board to Pieces primers ($6) Which is still a bit much to me. (I go with the WalMart .95 cent stuff myself). Guess what? the guys, and gals, insist on the $15 GW "brand"!
My advice? Use what you like and have fun.
I'll second Quaralane's suggestion, I settled on WalMart's generic brand of automotive primer some time ago, after trying some of the other household paint brands' primers (like Rustoleum, for example). It's finely-grained, but has good tooth, and as Q mentioned, it's cheap, er, ah, reasonably priced ;D

I use it on plastic models and metal figures alike.

I also have settled on the medium gray shade. I've tried the reddish primer, but I found that it didn't show details as well as the gray, especially on metal figures.

Before I decided to use spray primers, I used to use Tamiya's medium gray acrylic on figures, thinned with water or isopropyl and brushed on. But spraying them to prime them is just easier.
Mac said:
...The main reason to prime plastic, as far as I can see, is to allow the hard to reach spaces to remain in shadow. Metals are primed to help the paint adhere...

Actually, we prime plastic kits for that reason, too, it helps provide "tooth" for the final colors. Though I know some guys who don't prime plastic, because they don't want to build up layers, they just sand the surface lightly. I've tried both, and they both work, it depends on the subject.

Mac said:
My advice? Use what you like and have fun.

Seconded! ;)
If I am going to modify it in anyway, which I usually do, I just go at it and then sand. Then I use primer to make sure it looks smooth.
If I need to get a massive amount of troops to battle I use the primer/undercoat/topcoat, thing and whip out a few ranks real quick.
They are not ready for a contest but they are painted and willing to go to the front. . .
I use the cheap spray paint to prime my figs,I use flat white as it is easier to cover when painting lighter colors.Ex...yellows,lighter blue shades and any lighter shades.
Using flat white will also allow you to use paints that are thinned down much easier.Less paint means less build up and detail will show much better.
The dollar stores have the paint for about a buck a can,so I can get about a dozen for the price of the citadell and about 5 for the price of the krylon.
Thats my 2 cents
the only Citadel primers are white and black, I use these ONLY on miniatures with very high detail. I have found that the pigments are ground much finer in these, hence the higher price. This obscures less details as you layer paint on. The same effect can be had with a airbrush after straining and filtering the paint. That said, It is very expensive ($18.) and I am slowly starting to use army painter ($14) Krylon for mass troops and tanks. You could just airbrush prime, airbrush suitable for base coating will only set you back the cost of a good kit. Better quality airbrushes however are a investment.

I will say that the Citadel foundation paints are AWESOME as a base layer, they have excellent opacity. The citadel (regular) paint line has one advantage/ disadvantage, it has a dryer in it so has a short working time. Valejo does not have a dryer and has a higher pigment count so it stands thinning a little better for making glazes and thinning for airbrushing. Also check out the P3 paint line. This is made for Privateer by the same company that made OLD Citadel paints (remember those old castle bottles that paint seemed to last forever) These are sold in a base color and a highlight color for each shade. It makes miniature painting easy for a beginner that has not started mixing paint yet. The paint itself is very high quality, with a longer working time than citadel. The citadel washes are also excellent, these have replaced the old ink line. This is a shame because the inks gave a gloss effect while the washes are a matte.
I use a mid gray trade primer on all my figs and models.its about £3 per can and works just fine even on high detail figures . I did hear that GW primers aren't actually primers at all but rather just a spray version of their reg paints.

The main thing about priming is to take your time shake the can well and and don't linger when spraying .many light passes are always better than a few heavier ones .

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