RFM Sd.Kfz.171 Panther Ausf. F - Build Help

closethobbyist

New Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2023
Messages
5
Hello All,

New to the forum and armour modelling in general, i come from mainly a fantasy / sci-fi modelling background so have some experience with building and handling different kits such as maschinen krieger but this is my first tank build. So far things have been going good and theres lots of helpful resources out there which have been helpful. I'm a little bit befuddled with the running gear on this Ryefield models panther ausf. F kit - Could someone tell me if this looks right?

The space between the wheels feels quite big and there doesnt seem to be any particular fit on the wheels, nothing snaps into place they are very lose and wobbly, if i tilt the model all the wheels would just fall off the torsion bars which make it difficult to test fit the wheels on both sides at the same time - is this normal, i feel like i may be missing something? I would prefer not to glue them in place for ease of painting but don't wants to get that far down the line and realise i've done something wrong. Any tips would be welcome please.

I've seen on Nightshifts videos on youtube he sometimes glues the running wheels togeather to create a single unit but thats still detachable for painting, which i thought would be a good idea but i cant do that here with the wheels being so spaced apart.

I'm currently working on the track links and wonder if those will help keep things in place or is this just the case with running gear until all is glued into place?.


Many Thanks for any insightIMG_2589.jpgIMG_2590.jpgIMG_2591.jpgIMG_2592.jpgIMG_2593.jpgIMG_2594.jpg
 
Welcome Aboard !

I'm not familiar with Rye Field , or the " Panther F " .
It looks like there should be bushings .

What is the kit # ?
 
So the road wheels are still " wobbly " after they are all on the axles in this last photo ? :

img_2594-jpg.105989
 
Hi There,

Thanks for your help. Yes the wheels are still lose and wobbly after they are all attached to the axels in the last photo. I believe i have followed the instructions exactly.

For a detailed kit i just thought that even without glueing in place there should be some sort of 'click' type feeling that you know you've got the pieces right, whereas at the moment it feels pretty janky.

Thanks
 
I would believe any "wobble" would go away once the tracks are on, this was the case with the Sherman I built.

By the way, WELCOME!!!!!!!
Dig into older posts for tips, ideas, and or suggestions, or as you are doing, just ask.

Keep in mind:
Some kits you build, some build you.
 
IDK ,
It appears that the first line of wheels is to be cemented in place ,

10745376z3.jpg

But ,
From your photo that doesn't look possible due to the loose fit .
Do these wheels below need to engage farther onto the axles ?

img_2590-jpg.105985
 
I can't tell from the instructions and parts photos but do the outer wheels have a bushing portion that engages the inner wheels and fills that gap around the axle ?
 
Sorry for the slow reply.

The wheels cannot engage any further on the axels i thought that at first but ive double checked. The diameter of the hole on that inner is bigger than the diameter of the slightly larger portion on the swing arm i think this is the main reason for them being lose.

The are two different sets of swing arms but i've followed the instructions for section 4A and used the arms and wheels as outlined but i wonder if theres a mix up and or the instructions are wrong and i've match the wrong wheels and arms.

Im currently out at the moment but i will check this evening and report back. Thanks you for al the insight so far!
 
So you absolutely had the right suggestion, the second set of torsion arms and wheels (options 4B) fit much more securely, a complete contrast to option 4A so im not sure if I did something wrong along the way but thank you for all the help.

Unfortunately i had cemented the torsion bars in place, so I've had to cut them and drill out the holes to get the new bars. Theres some loss of details but thank fully most of this will be hidden behind the tracks and the job was pretty clean. Considering this is my first build im treating it as a learning curve for the build and painting anyway.

i will pos some picks once fully built!

Thanks
 
So you absolutely had the right suggestion, the second set of torsion arms and wheels (options 4B) fit much more securely, a complete contrast to option 4A so im not sure if I did something wrong along the way but thank you for all the help.

Unfortunately i had cemented the torsion bars in place, so I've had to cut them and drill out the holes to get the new bars. Theres some loss of details but thank fully most of this will be hidden behind the tracks and the job was pretty clean. Considering this is my first build im treating it as a learning curve for the build and painting anyway.

i will pos some picks once fully built!

Thanks
Urumomo is the yoda of the forum !!!!
Pantherman
 
OP, inside those wheels, there should be a small poly cap, piece P2 as instructions. Did you noticed it?

The poly cap will let you remove the wheels for painting. Actually, it will keep them in place.
 
Last edited:
I already built the G Panther from Rye Field. I came across the same thing. My solution was the following:
>I assembled and tried on the wheels as the instructions shows.
>I removed them and painted them individually on little "stakes"
>And when the entire model was built and painted i glued them in place.
>Then i finally added the tracks and the scratchbuilt skirt armor.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top