Question about....well everything!

[Orthanq]

Hello all!

Not sure where to exactly put this question, so I will begin here

1. I've been watching some you tube videos of various people constructing models and one theme that keeps cropping up is the use of super glue. I think I've seen it referred to as CA also. The question I have is this, what type of CA/Superglue is best for plastic modelling. I know this can be subjective, but from my point-of-view (having never used it) all guidance is appreciated.

*also, I've seen people use it and then spray an accelerator for instant hardening. Can some please address this also

2. The next question concerns priming. Back 30 years ago when i build my last model (what a disaster!), I had never primed anything. The question....do you prime ALL the parts (except clear and PE) while they are still on the sprue? and what type of primer?

3. When using Future, do you spray that straight (no thinner) through the airbrush?

sorry for so many questions, but I'm at a stopping point on my current project

I appreciate all your responses and SOOOOO happy I found this website!

you guys rock!

r/

Orthanq

 

[ScaleModelMadman]

1. CA is CA for the most part, the main differences are viscosity. Some are thick, to fill big gaps/holes, some is thin, the flow via capillary action under delicate parts. You can use model specific brands or even the three pack of cheap stuff at the dollar store.

*yes, sometimes an accelerator helps to cure the join so you don't have to hold it. You can use baking soda as well I believe as an accelerator.

2. I prime everything (including PE...especially PE) when assembled. I don't prime/paint on the sprue because when you snip the part, you now have to scrape and sand the seam/sprue gate and then touch up the paint. Tons of primers work well, from model specific to rattle can general use.

3. Yes, no thinning required.

 

[Glorfindel]

You can also brush the Future on in very thin coats. Overall both techniques work great.

 

[Carsenault]

42 is the answer to everything....

Now for something completely different, many modelers will give you different answers to these questions, here's mine.

1. There are many types of CA (cyano-acrylate) glue out there all with different properties. Its used mainly to attach when working with various non styrene like resin parts, photo etch, white metal, brass, etch. You can get thick gel like CA which some use to fill gaps, super thin liquid CA which is perfect for attaching photoetch. Some even use regular Super Glue to attach thin weight bearing parts to models like landing gear and struts since CA wont soften the styrene like some plastic cements do. CA usually sets fairly quickly so it doesnt always give you a lot of time to work, there are slower setting varieties out there. Either way, you want to be sure your part is perfectly in place.
Sometimes you need an instant kick, thats what the accelerator is for, liek when your holding the part exactly where it needs to be with one hand, you then spray or appy the accelerator with the other to instantly set the CA.

2 Priming is fairly new to me, I tried it for the first time 3 years ago and I was sold on it. I dont usually prime everything. For the interior ususally just the resin and photo tech detail parts and Ill do the landing gear bays and parts, then once the model is almost fully assembled Ill prime the exterior surface completely. The solid uniform low sheen color makes it much easier to spot any flaws in your build like exposed seams, scratch marks, sink holes, etc. Primers usually dry fairly fast too allowing you to sand and smooth any flaws you find. Some paints requier a good primer anyways.

3. Future can be airbrushed without any thinner, but I find a bit of thinning with blue Windex works well. Dont try to put it on in one coat, or it will run all over the place. Its best to apply in thin layers at about 15 psi with a medium tip needle. One thing I do as well is to airbrush straight Windex over the final Future coat before it has a chance to completely cure. This gives it a bit of extra glossiness.

 

[The Nylon Gag]

I use several different CA glues, some companys make a wide variety like Ken says, Zap is a brand i use

http://www.zapglue.com/cas/

but i also buy Krazy CA from the supermarket because it has a built in brush.

I've never used an accelerator but i have used CA and baking powder as fast curing sandable filler

Gag

 

[dkev]

I use primarily two types of glue. Loctite super glue Ultra Gel Control for most things and Testors liquid cement for larger parts I need more time to set. I use Tamiya ultra thin for my CA glue. This is good for welding seams. I also use Krylon Ultra Flat Camouflage paint for my primer. I prime everything but clear parts. I dip my canopies in Future and just let it dry overnight. I don't spray it . I prefer to use clear coat for that .

 

[smokeriderdon]

As has been said, CA is pretty much CA. And a bit of history. The reason super glue bonds your fingers together SOOOOOO well is that is EXACTLY what it was designed to do! It was actually developed just before or during (can't remember the exact time line) Viet Nam. It was meant as a field item for medics. Guy with a minor evisceration? No problem, stuff the guts back in, glue him shut and throw him on the Huey out of dodge. Arm lacerated to the bone? Glue it up, chuck on Huey. You get the idea.

I have personally never done priming, but I am going to start with the A-10 I am working on now.

OK, I have seen reference to using Future a lot. At the risk of sounding ignorant, WHY? What is the purpose and effect being gained here?

 

[Junkie]

Future is simply a clear gloss coat. Can be used prior to decals, they slide much better on it. Can be used for a gloss clear. Mix with flat paint at different ratios to go between satin or gloss. Drip it in layers over fiber optic to make Iceycles.

 

[Dagger6actual]

CA is pretty handy because like you've already been told it comes in different viscosities. I use Maxi-Cure brand because I can find it everywhere...I have the extra thick and super thin right now. The accelerator is Insta-Set...but like most of them seems a little oily and when sprayed gets everywhere. I usually decant some into a small mixing cup and apply it with a Q-Tip...it's more precise that way and less messy.
Other glues you'll use are white...like Elmer's..and liquid cements like Tamiya's thin or Extra-Thin. They take longer to dry and some actually melt the plastic and weld it together.
Future is good as a base for decals like Scott pointed out. It can also be used between layers of paint or finishes for aging, weathering, etc.
Some of the guys here at SMA are true artists...published "subject matter experts" if you will. Find their videos and articles and you will learn a TON! I spend lots of time doing just that...really amazing stuff!
Good Luck!

 

[WebbyNZ]

My 2 cents on 'kicker' or accelerator is that it works really well but I had some mixed experiences with the spray applicators, they tend to overspray a lot and can leave a residue that needs to be wiped off.
Better results came when I sprayed into a small mixing cup (I use cheap tattoo ink cups off eBay) and then apply with a cotton bud or toothpick to the area that needs to be set.
It maybe the product I used (don't have it on hand) but I found with resin parts it actually made the CA brittle and more likely to snap apart again so I left the resin parts to dry naturally but on styrene it worked really really well.

 

[scalemodelkid]

There are many differnt types of super glues out there . They can also very in thickness from fine to thick .my preferance is zaps Medium ca its just what i need for the job .not to thick and not to runny were it runs down onto the paint work.make sure to NOT USE ON CLEAR PART IT CAN HAZE THE CLEAR PART, AND ALSO SOME ACCELERATORS CAN DO THAT TO THE CANOPY. Accelirators- There also is many out there. but you have to be careful which kind.NEVER BUY AEROSOL ACCELIRATOR.Why?-the co2 thats in the can leaves a cfc residue that is bad when you go to paint over it .but thats what priming is ,and ill get to that in a sec. i use insta set accelerator becasue it thinnes the super glue just a little to give capalary action between to joins. WHICH MAKES LESS SANDING.Priming a model is a critical stage before putting your basecoat down.it shows any imperfection on the surface or any spots that need to be fixed.also it gives something for your basecoat to hold on to. i use tamiya grey surface primer in the can or alclad grey primer which you will need an airbrush for. i also use vallejo surface primer, and as well you will need a airbrush or that also.When i gloss coat my model i use future or i use a natural gloss from vallejo which gives me the effect i need . when i use future i do not thin it. THERE IS NO NEED TO. i use it striaght out of my airbrush at a high pressure around 20 - 25 psi . and it is also important to keep in mind that almost all aircraft and armour had a dead matt finish not a gloss surface. testors makes a spray can called dullcoat and it works just fine. and keeping your model a dull coat makes it more attractive! ;D any questions further email me at [email protected]