Newbie Question About Paint Compatability

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Z Cochrane V

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I've been researching my question and one place will say yes and the next will say no. So, I'm asking you experts on here. The model I'm currently working on is painted mostly with Tamiya spray can laquer. But some of the smaller detail parts are done in Testors enamel. To protect the decals, I would like to do a light coat of clear. What I have is Tamiya spray can clear laquer. Some places say that if you allow the enamel to fully cure, you can spray laquer over top as long as you do several mist coats. Other places say not to no matter how cured the enamel is. Others say over decals, same thing, light mist coats. Others say no. Can you please shed some light on this subject for me? Thanks in advance.
 
Thin coats of any coating are always preferable , but it doesn't have to be mist coats -- you want a contiguous film each time , ideally .
Thin coats like any other application .

That stuff isn't that hot --- acrylics would be far more susceptible to the solvents in that clear than alkyds ( enamel ) ever would be .
Tamiya makes that stuff for this hobby , they know what they are doing ,, the one spray from them that you want to be careful with is their aerosol paints for polycarbonate . For the clear body RC cars .
 
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Thin coats of any coating are always preferable , but it doesn't have to be mist coats -- you want a contiguous film each time , ideally .
Thin coats like any other application .

That stuff isn't that hot --- acrylics would be far more susceptible to the solvents in that clear than alkyds ( enamel ) ever would be .
Tamiya makes that stuff for this hobby , they know what they are doing ,, the one spray from them that you want to be careful with is their aerosol paints for polycarbonate . For the clear body RC cars .
Good to hear. Thanks!
 
When in doubt... Test it out!
I keep the used spray can tops, flat and curved surfaces!
I've decided exactly that. I just painted a piece of sprue with the Testors enamel. After it has a few days to cure, I will hit it with some of the clear and watch the magic. I will also apply an unused decal, giving it ample time to dry before the clear to see if it gets a reaction. Better safe than sorry. Thanks!
 
I did not think this was worth a new thread, apologies for adding to yours but it is at least related :)

I never liked chemistry class, so those of you who get it please forgive the dumb question...Does the use of Mr Color Thinner (either leveling or just the 400) mixed with Tamiya acrylics (in this case XF86) make the clear coat sensitive to, or soluable by enamel-based liners or washes?

If I understand correctly an acrylic paint is impervious to enamels, just wondering if the thinning agent changes that.
 
I did not think this was worth a new thread, apologies for adding to yours but it is at least related :)

I never liked chemistry class, so those of you who get it please forgive the dumb question...Does the use of Mr Color Thinner (either leveling or just the 400) mixed with Tamiya acrylics (in this case XF86) make the clear coat sensitive to, or soluable by enamel-based liners or washes?

If I understand correctly an acrylic paint is impervious to enamels, just wondering if the thinning agent changes that.
No
 
Does the use of Mr Color Thinner (either leveling or just the 400) mixed with Tamiya acrylics (in this case XF86) make the clear coat sensitive to, or soluable by enamel-based liners or washes?
No, once the paint has hardened it's no different from if you had used alcohol, water, cellulose thinner, or whatever else to thin it.

It's also something you can test yourself quite easily :) Just paint some leftover parts or bits of sprue, then after that dries, treat them with whatever it is you're wondering about.
 

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