Reply to thread

Message

CLEANUP
Your model will look better if you spend some time cleaning up mold lines with a file or sand paper and filling the inevitable air bubbles. For larger holes, 5-minute epoxy works better than putty, curing in a few minutes and not shrinking as modeling putties do. After it sets up hard, the epoxy can be shaved or filed off level with the surrounding area. For shallower holes, cut the surface of the area to be filled with a hobby knife to give the putty or epoxy something to adhere to, as it does not stick well to shiny resin surfaces. When filing or sanding, wear some kind of dust mask to prevent the urethane dust from getting inside you. It's not good to eat or breathe.

GLUES
A two-part epoxy is recommended for assembling these models, but if you are in a hurry, super-glue can be used. The super-glue bond isn't as strong as an epoxy bond,but will generally work.

PRIMING
I STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU SCRUB ANY NEW RESIN MODEL WITH DISHWASHING DETERGENT (DAWN DISHWASHING DETERGENT IS GOOD!) AND A STIFF SCRUB BRUSH/TOOTHBRUSH. There are always some residual films left behind from the molding process that may inhibit the paint from adhering. When it comes to a choice of primers, use an enamel or lacquer based primer. It will cut through any residual mold release and bond to the resin. My personal favourite is Rustoleum "Painter's Touch" brand Sandable Gray Primer.
VERY IMPORTANT: Mist (spray very lightly) a light primer coat and let it dry completely (at least half an hour) before spraying heavier primer coats.

REPAIRS
The polyurethane resin that the models are made of is very tough, but when it does break, it usually does not shatter, but breaks cleanly. If a piece should break, repair the break with a very small amount of thin cyanoacrylate super glue. After the glue dries, simply retouch the paint in the affected area.

WARPAGE
Beware of leaving your models in the car on a hot day! These models are plastic after all, and will soften in a car sitting around in the hot sun, just like normal plastic models will. To rebend a warped piece heat, the area to be bent with a hair dryer, gently bend back into place and set the resin by putting it under cold tap water.

<blockquote data-quote="Splashcoat" data-source="post: 36146" data-attributes="member: 2703">CLEANUPYour model will look better if you spend some time cleaning up mold lines with a file or sand paper and filling the inevitable air bubbles. For larger holes, 5-minute epoxy works better than putty, curing in a few minutes and not shrinking as modeling putties do. After it sets up hard, the epoxy can be shaved or filed off level with the surrounding area. For shallower holes, cut the surface of the area to be filled with a hobby knife to give the putty or epoxy something to adhere to, as it does not stick well to shiny resin surfaces. When filing or sanding, wear some kind of dust mask to prevent the urethane dust from getting inside you. It&#039;s not good to eat or breathe.GLUESA two-part epoxy is recommended for assembling these models, but if you are in a hurry, super-glue can be used. The super-glue bond isn&#039;t as strong as an epoxy bond,but will generally work.PRIMINGI STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU SCRUB ANY NEW RESIN MODEL WITH DISHWASHING DETERGENT (DAWN DISHWASHING DETERGENT IS GOOD!) AND A STIFF SCRUB BRUSH/TOOTHBRUSH. There are always some residual films left behind from the molding process that may inhibit the paint from adhering. When it comes to a choice of primers, use an enamel or lacquer based primer. It will cut through any residual mold release and bond to the resin. My personal favourite is Rustoleum &quot;Painter&#039;s Touch&quot; brand Sandable Gray Primer. VERY IMPORTANT: Mist (spray very lightly) a light primer coat and let it dry completely (at least half an hour) before spraying heavier primer coats.REPAIRSThe polyurethane resin that the models are made of is very tough, but when it does break, it usually does not shatter, but breaks cleanly. If a piece should break, repair the break with a very small amount of thin cyanoacrylate super glue. After the glue dries, simply retouch the paint in the affected area.WARPAGEBeware of leaving your models in the car on a hot day! These models are plastic after all, and will soften in a car sitting around in the hot sun, just like normal plastic models will. To rebend a warped piece heat, the area to be bent with a hair dryer, gently bend back into place and set the resin by putting it under cold tap water.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Splashcoat, post: 36146, member: 2703"] CLEANUP Your model will look better if you spend some time cleaning up mold lines with a file or sand paper and filling the inevitable air bubbles. For larger holes, 5-minute epoxy works better than putty, curing in a few minutes and not shrinking as modeling putties do. After it sets up hard, the epoxy can be shaved or filed off level with the surrounding area. For shallower holes, cut the surface of the area to be filled with a hobby knife to give the putty or epoxy something to adhere to, as it does not stick well to shiny resin surfaces. When filing or sanding, wear some kind of dust mask to prevent the urethane dust from getting inside you. It's not good to eat or breathe. GLUES A two-part epoxy is recommended for assembling these models, but if you are in a hurry, super-glue can be used. The super-glue bond isn't as strong as an epoxy bond,but will generally work. PRIMING I STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU SCRUB ANY NEW RESIN MODEL WITH DISHWASHING DETERGENT (DAWN DISHWASHING DETERGENT IS GOOD!) AND A STIFF SCRUB BRUSH/TOOTHBRUSH. There are always some residual films left behind from the molding process that may inhibit the paint from adhering. When it comes to a choice of primers, use an enamel or lacquer based primer. It will cut through any residual mold release and bond to the resin. My personal favourite is Rustoleum "Painter's Touch" brand Sandable Gray Primer. VERY IMPORTANT: Mist (spray very lightly) a light primer coat and let it dry completely (at least half an hour) before spraying heavier primer coats. REPAIRS The polyurethane resin that the models are made of is very tough, but when it does break, it usually does not shatter, but breaks cleanly. If a piece should break, repair the break with a very small amount of thin cyanoacrylate super glue. After the glue dries, simply retouch the paint in the affected area. WARPAGE Beware of leaving your models in the car on a hot day! These models are plastic after all, and will soften in a car sitting around in the hot sun, just like normal plastic models will. To rebend a warped piece heat, the area to be bent with a hair dryer, gently bend back into place and set the resin by putting it under cold tap water. [/QUOTE]

Verification