Latest projects: Academy Tiger I, Tamiya Type 90 & T-34/76, Dart

[pingvuiini]

My latest simultaneous builds:

1/25 Revell 1968 Dodge Dart 426 Hemi, 1/35 Academy Tiger I Mid Production, 1/35 Tamiya JGSDF Type 90

This is the Academy kit with the full interior, which I skipped so I could have more fun weathering the exterior.

A nice, shiny Hemi 426 engine. But not for long!!!

1/35 Tamiya T-34/76 1942.

I just got this T-34 in the mail today and did a quick, sloppy build in less than 3 hours. After the Panther G fiasco and working with those individual track links its really nice to deal with single piece tracks. The Russian T-34s and KV tanks go together very quickly, with only 8 or 9 steps in the instructions. It's a testament to the simplicity of the genuine article.

 

[pingvuiini]

Updated progress & pics:

T-34/76 - Painted, Germanized, and initial weathering.

Tiger I - Painted camouflage. Final assembly, detailing and decals next.

Type 90 - Initial weathering.

Dodge Dart - Assembly and detailing completed, initial weathering. (Note: engine detail is rather incomplete. I am not a car guy and I find that the instructions for Revell cars are annoyingly ambiguous regarding engine details like hoses and wiring. They just have big arrows pointing into the engine cavity).

 

[pingvuiini]

Tiger I assembly, painting and detailing complete:

 

[Junkie]

That Tiger looks great. Very nice photos too.

 

[pingvuiini]

That Tiger looks great. Very nice photos too.

Thanks for the compliments!

I just finished the Germanized T-34/76 with the usual extra crusty treatment:

Here's just a few pics of the completed Dart. I was forced to hold back the crust a bit on this one as I discovered the front section is made of fiberglass. Pooh! >:^[

 

[Tanker52]

Great job on the rust effects! Very realistic looking.

 

[hook1169]

What technique do you use for the rust on the tank. The flaking and peeling is so realistic!

 

[pingvuiini]

What technique do you use for the rust on the tank. The flaking and peeling is so realistic!

Great job on the rust effects! Very realistic looking.

Thanks for the compliments! I used my usual combination of oils w/ mineral spirit washes for all the crustiness. I also started using the plaster of Paris again, but only in the wheel & track areas this time to avoid covering up all the detail.

Here is the JGSDF Type 90 all finished. The build was quick and clean, but I really botched the paint job. Luckily I was able to hide it with the weathering. This time around the weathering is not so much crusty but more muddy.

Next: the Tiger I weathering. FuN!

 

[the doog]

That Tiger looks great. Very nice photos too.

Thanks for the compliments!

I just finished the Germanized T-34/76 with the usual extra crusty treatment:

Wow, that's some heavy weathering! Quite an ambitious bench you've got there--I don't know how you guys do it, building three, four models at once---that was always a good way to lose parts and misplace entire sprues when I tried it in the past!
Another poster asked you this, but your answer was rather vague---how did you get this layered-paint effect? I've used bare metal foil to get that effect in rusty cars before, but how did you make this paint look like it is layered by rust degradation? Washes can't do that. ;D Care to share? I'm sure everyone would appreciate the tip?!

 

[pingvuiini]

Wow, that's some heavy weathering! Quite an ambitious bench you've got there--I don't know how you guys do it, building three, four models at once---that was always a good way to lose parts and misplace entire sprues when I tried it in the past!
Another poster asked you this, but your answer was rather vague---how did you get this layered-paint effect? I've used bare metal foil to get that effect in rusty cars before, but how did you make this paint look like it is layered by rust degradation? Washes can't do that. ;D Care to share? I'm sure everyone would appreciate the tip?!

If you are referring to the peeling paint look/technique, I got it from the automotive forum. This guy does a good job of explaining it. I used oils and mineral spirits for the rust areas, whereas he used acrylics and powders. It looks great on his car!

http://www.scalemodeladdict.com/index.php/topic,9483.0.html

 

[the doog]

Wow, that's some heavy weathering! Quite an ambitious bench you've got there--I don't know how you guys do it, building three, four models at once---that was always a good way to lose parts and misplace entire sprues when I tried it in the past!
Another poster asked you this, but your answer was rather vague---how did you get this layered-paint effect? I've used bare metal foil to get that effect in rusty cars before, but how did you make this paint look like it is layered by rust degradation? Washes can't do that. ;D Care to share? I'm sure everyone would appreciate the tip?!

Hey, SINCERE thanks for posting this link--I've known about the way to make rust with paint and powders for quite a while--I had a story published in a magazine a few years ago with an old rusted Chevy Nomad car surrounded by "rust bunnies" where I used that technique--but the idea of using the scalpel to score the plastic is brilliant. I've seen guys try to use "crackle paint" to effect that look too, but it didn't seem to really look as good as that MG. It's really cool! It's great to learn something new in this hobby!
You seem to have put it to good effect in your radical weathering!
If you are referring to the peeling paint look/technique, I got it from the automotive forum. This guy does a good job of explaining it. I used oils and mineral spirits for the rust areas, whereas he used acrylics and powders. It looks great on his car!

http://www.scalemodeladdict.com/index.php/topic,9483.0.html

 

[pingvuiini]

Hey, SINCERE thanks for posting this link--I've known about the way to make rust with paint and powders for quite a while--I had a story published in a magazine a few years ago with an old rusted Chevy Nomad car surrounded by "rust bunnies" where I used that technique--but the idea of using the scalpel to score the plastic is brilliant. I've seen guys try to use "crackle paint" to effect that look too, but it didn't seem to really look as good as that MG. It's really cool! It's great to learn something new in this hobby!
You seem to have put it to good effect in your radical weathering!

Thanks! The technique is a lot of fun but I must learn not to overuse it. It seems better suited for larger scale autos than smaller scale armor.

One thing I noticed is that he uses a straight scalpel type knife. So at first I used an X-Acto with the standard #11 blade and it kept slipping a lot while cutting at the shallow angle, giving a lot of unwanted straight cuts into the plastic. I then switched to a curved blade #22 and found it much easier to manipulate and control.

I just wish I could find a similarly easy and effective technique for die cast cars. Right now I am limited to the usual high crust but no peeling paint. Maybe that foil technique you mentioned could work??

 

[the doog]

pingvuiini,

Man, those are some cool cars! I love the look of them--even as my heart aches to see prime "muscle" in that condition! I have a soft spot for rusty cars--I love to find them in the woods and photograph them, and then use them for reference. You've done some sweeeeet work to these!

As I was saying, I used that "oil+pigments" in these two builds:





-- and on this one, I had a "happy accident". I painted the car in a rust color, added pigments and oils, and put a coat of hi-gloss Future over it to protect it as a base for the hairspray technique. I then painted a coat of Tamiya white over it, and used a hair dryer to dry it quickly. Well, it dried so fast that it shrunk over the gloss cat---and fractured like degraded paint in a perfect fashion. I couldn't believe my luck.



As far as the technique on armor, I would say that it CAN work well for armor, but that I think that it's probably too heavy of an effect for armor that you're portraying as still running. It is perfect for rusting hulks, but no self-respecting tank crew would ever take a tank in such degraded condition out to battle---they'd be crazy; the armor would split right apart at the first small-calibre hit!
If I had any advice to give, I would say to be more focused on how much rust you're imparting to a running tank--or dedicate your efforts to modeling wrecks. The technique and insane rsults that you've got are really the ticket for modeling that kind of look--and that's not an easy thing to achieve! ;D