Group Build: Biplane - barnstormer to fighter

[Rockin' Rob]

Decal day!

View attachment 198354

Kinda stinks though when you think you trimmed close enough but when you slide it onto the model you can see the white rim.

You know? This might seem kind of funny but all the time I hear you guys talk about trimming decals. I've never trimmed a decal in my life. Not once. Never occurred to me. Just saying. I'm not saying your way is needless or anything just that I've never done that. Hmm

 

[Tommergun]

You know? This might seem kind of funny but all the time I hear you guys talk about trimming decals. I've never trimmed a decal in my life. Not once. Never occurred to me. Just saying. I'm not saying your way is needless or anything just that I've never done that. Hmm

These are older decals and there was a lot of extra film around them, hence trimming. It all depends on the decal.

 

[wjbrandel]

And I've started on the rigging after painting the wing struts, no photos sorry I forgot to take any.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

It's getting there, boys. It's coming along nicely a lot still to do but it's taking shape

 

[BarleyBop]

It's getting there

That's looking amazing!
What are you using for the rigging?

 

[Rockin' Rob]

That's looking amazing!
What are you using for the rigging?

Thank you. The rigging is Ace Hardware. I went to Hobby Bench and looked at their wire and and rods and plastic and such but his selection of brass wire was picked over. So I just headed down the road to the local Ace Hardware and man they got everything. They even have balsa wood there. But every kind of Rod and thickness and wire of brass and steel and aluminum. I was like a kid in a candy store.

 

[Bob T]

It's getting there, boys. It's coming along nicely a lot still to do but it's taking shape

It really looks good...Nice work!

 

[Bob T]

I made a rookie mistake* and had to step away for a couple days, but I am back to fix my error, and Roden's errors.

*Wanted to paint the prop black, but no gloss black in house. Went to Hobby Lobby because it's much closer (15 minutes) than Hobbytown (1 hour round trip). The Hobby Lobby near me has been getting rid of their modeling stuff and now only carries Testor's enamel and some no name acrylic paint. So rather than go to the west side for the right stuff, I grabbed a rattle can of gloss black Testor's. I was thinking the prop was primed with two coats of Tamiya's grey fine surface primer, so it'll be fine.

It was in fact, not fine. It was a sticky mess. (sorry no photos - I wasn't happy though)

So yes. Took a few days off from the kit. Prop is now cleaned up and going to get a second primer coat shortly.
Tamiya gloss black standing by.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

It really looks good...Nice work!

Thank you Bob t. I had my doubts at first. Especially with all that rigging. But why do you think that tester's enamel turned into stickiness? I used to have some cans of that I probably still do in the garage but I never liked it. Took forever to dry

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Now remember the reason I used wire is because I screwed up the PE initially. That rigging is definitely not scale model accurate. The real rigging on an MK was actually straps kind of shaped like an airfoil and they did not use Barrel turnbuckles. It had a specialized doohickey that hooked it right into the wing. But if you have to scratch build and you go off scale then just make it look good to your eye. The first brass Rod I used was too thick. I kept looking at it going there's something wrong, that just doesn't look good. So you tear it out and then you get exasperated and let it sit there for a couple days until your mojo gets going again

 

[wjbrandel]

Primer on waiting for it to cure then some real color will go on it.

And for some reason I couldn't get it to stand properly. The landing gear is crooked and I can't straighten it.

 

[Glenn S]

Now remember the reason I used wire is because I screwed up the PE initially. That rigging is definitely not scale model accurate. The real rigging on an MK was actually straps kind of shaped like an airfoil and they did not use Barrel turnbuckles. It had a specialized doohickey that hooked it right into the wing. But if you have to scratch build and you go off scale then just make it look good to your eye. The first brass Rod I used was too thick. I kept looking at it going there's something wrong, that just doesn't look good. So you tear it out and then you get exasperated and let it sit there for a couple days until your mojo gets going again

Regarding what type of material to use for rigging, I discovered EZ Line a while back. With a little practice, I found I can achieve good results. I also like that I can accidently touch it and it doesn't snap off.
An alternative that I have been using on some recent models has been used guitar strings (the thin ones).
Years ago I thought I'd learn how to play the guitar. Quickly I learned that I don't have the apptitude to play the guitar. But I did end up with a small collection of used guitar strings. I kept a set because they looked like they might be useful in a future build. I have since used the thin strings to make whip antennas and other pieces that are thin, and often break off the model. The guitar strings are like spring steel, so they bend, and then snap back.
I recently stopped in at our local musical instrument shop and they let me have as many used guitar strings as I wanted, for free. When I told them what I planned on using the strings for they seemed happy that the strings were going to remain useful, instead of ending up in the trash.
So, I'm going to try using the guitar strings for the rigging of the underwing pontoons on a Sunderland flying boat. I'll see if it works. If not, I can easily revert back to EZ Line.
Does anyone know if other stringed instruments have thinner wires than a guitar?

 

[BarleyBop]

Does anyone know if other stringed instruments have thinner wires than a guitar?

Great question, I'd never really thought about it.

I play Flamenco guitar (at least I try), and I prefer the high tension strings because they have a bright crisp sound, not as mellow as classical strings.
Apparently, the brand I like uses different materials in their sets, balancing feel and sound.
They are in the nylon family of classical guitar strings. Apparently, a Fluorocarbon carbon "High-Tension E-1st string sits around .024".
Pretty sure mine are heavier than that, as nylon strings need to be heavier to withstand the tension.
I also have a tenor Uke, but the soprano Ukulele has comparably thin 1st string @ .025"

So I got curious and Googleified my inquiry, finally arriving at this:

Instrument Hierarchy (Thinnest to Thickest)
Across global and historical stringed instruments, the specific "top string" thickness varies significantly:

• Electric Guitar: 0.007" to 0.008" for ultra-light high-E strings.
• Sitar: 0.011" (0.28 mm) for the primary Baaj steel melody string.
• Violin: 0.010" to 0.011" (0.25 mm to 0.28 mm) for a standard steel high-E string.
• Harpsichord: 0.011" to 0.012" for the highest iron or brass wire trebles.
• Acoustic Steel-String Guitar: 0.010" to 0.012" for standard extra-light or light high-E strings.
• Grand Piano: 0.030" (0.75 mm) for the highest treble wire. Even at its highest pitch, a piano requires incredibly thick high-carbon steel to withstand massive hammer impacts and tens of thousands of pounds of frame tension

As a teenager, I had a Balalaika, and I remember that its top string literally shredded my unprepared fingertips!
Turns out that it was "plain steel and measured a micro-thin 0.008" to 0.011"! No wonder!

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Regarding what type of material to use for rigging, I discovered EZ Line a while back. With a little practice, I found I can achieve good results. I also like that I can accidently touch it and it doesn't snap off.
An alternative that I have been using on some recent models has been used guitar strings (the thin ones).
Years ago I thought I'd learn how to play the guitar. Quickly I learned that I don't have the apptitude to play the guitar. But I did end up with a small collection of used guitar strings. I kept a set because they looked like they might be useful in a future build. I have since used the thin strings to make whip antennas and other pieces that are thin, and often break off the model. The guitar strings are like spring steel, so they bend, and then snap back.
I recently stopped in at our local musical instrument shop and they let me have as many used guitar strings as I wanted, for free. When I told them what I planned on using the strings for they seemed happy that the strings were going to remain useful, instead of ending up in the trash.
So, I'm going to try using the guitar strings for the rigging of the underwing pontoons on a Sunderland flying boat. I'll see if it works. If not, I can easily revert back to EZ Line.
Does anyone know if other stringed instruments have thinner wires than a guitar?

I have some easy line and I looked at it and it was the fine easy line. Way Too Thin for 132nd scale

 

[wjbrandel]

I finally got the initial colors down, I'll probably finish painting tomorrow. I would tonight but dinner is waiting

Khaki and light green are down, dark green and chocolate brown left to go

 

[BarleyBop]

colors down,

Flying high!

 

[Bob T]

An alternative that I have been using on some recent models has been used guitar strings (the thin ones).

I've used guitar strings for antennas on my armor models. Your can get a full set pretty cheap on-line.

 

[Edbert]

Do you have any problems with guitar strings curving? They sell them coiled in loose loops, no issue when tensioned on a guitar, but it seems they'd return to a slight curve if not stretched.

?

 

[Bob T]

Do you have any problems with guitar strings curving? They sell them coiled in loose loops, no issue when tensioned on a guitar, but it seems they'd return to a slight curve if not stretched.

?

Not at all. At least with the ones I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002E3CK4

 

[Glenn S]

Do you have any problems with guitar strings curving? They sell them coiled in loose loops, no issue when tensioned on a guitar, but it seems they'd return to a slight curve if not stretched.

?

All the things guitar strings I have employed have been used. They come off the guitar pretty straight. I coiled them, to store them, and as soon as I release them they pop back to being straight.
I have had to bend them, on occasion in order to produce a curve to them.

 

[Glenn S]

Great question, I'd never really thought about it.

I play Flamenco guitar (at least I try), and I prefer the high tension strings because they have a bright crisp sound, not as mellow as classical strings.
Apparently, the brand I like uses different materials in their sets, balancing feel and sound.
They are in the nylon family of classical guitar strings. Apparently, a Fluorocarbon carbon "High-Tension E-1st string sits around .024".
Pretty sure mine are heavier than that, as nylon strings need to be heavier to withstand the tension.
I also have a tenor Uke, but the soprano Ukulele has comparably thin 1st string @ .025"

So I got curious and Googleified my inquiry, finally arriving at this:


As a teenager, I had a Balalaika, and I remember that its top string literally shredded my unprepared fingertips!
Turns out that it was "plain steel and measured a micro-thin 0.008" to 0.011"! No wonder!

Interesting.
I just measured the four used guitar strings I picked up at the music store this past week. They range in thickness from 0.009" to 0.015".
I hadn't noticed the difference in thickness until your post.
I'll have to take my caliper with me next time I go to pick up some used guitar strings.

 

[Werner Voss]

Got to spend some time on my Fokker F.1 this evening.

Hope to assemble the fuselage tomorrow evening.