First time attempting to airbrush

[stevieb54]

Hello all, its been a while since I joined now am having some anxiety as I am getting close to actually assembling the model car kits Ive had for a while. I have a new in box Paasche AB kit I bought about 20 years ago, still sealed in box. I just ordered a compressor that comes with a gun also, I guess 2 is better than one lol. I am going to use Testors or MCW enamel paints, but confused about mixing ratios, what solvent to use and other questions. Can anyone recommend a place or a post to read about this stuff or beginners guide? Thanks cant wait to dive in eventually lol.

 

[airdave]

AB model is the classic Turbine brush from decades ago.
Leave it in the box.
It is for doing very fine detail and touch up on photographs with thin inks and gauche.

Or are you just using the acronym ab for airbrush?
If so, what model do you have?

What gun came with the compressor?

if you want to spray Testors enamels, or similar, you need to find the correct reducer, probably ordinary paint thinner, and then over-reduce.
It all depends on your tip size (on the airbrush).
I'd say at least .5mm is probably required for thicker paints like enamels.

 

[stevieb54]

Thanks for the response. Yes ab meant air brush. I ordered a Timbertech compressor/ AB combo, its arriving today.

 

[WtShark]

FWIW, I've had a Paache airbrush for many years, and hadn't touched it for 30 years or more. I've recently jumped back into modelling and one of issues I had with airbrushing in the early years with enamel was the clean up. They required acetone/thinners and LOTS of clean up between color changes and after.
I have switched to acrylics, making it much easier to clean. I bought a compact little compressor on Amazon, and outfitted my airbrush hose with a QD, and found the Vallejo "Air" paints to be easy to use right out of the bottle. Depending on your brush/pressure setting, a good rule of thumb is paint should be the consistency of milk, (thin and flow easily). I have been using my .03 needle with my Paasche, and if I'm using a pain that's too thick, will add Vallejo thinner to get it to a thinner consistency. I practiced spraying, (after a terrible too thin mix ruined a prep'd body) so, practice with mixing in the paint cup. Too thick won't flow, too thin may run, though thinner mixes will flow better. I use a large bottle of "Airbrush Cleaner", but you can use water mixed with windex, and will run Iso Alcohol to clean between color changes. Start with lighter colors first, moving to darker colors and play with the settings. Keep a pad of paper near you to check your flow/spray pattern and practice. Also, there are TONS of videos out there to watch how to tune, adjust, clean and use your AB. Hope this helps.
This little compressor has more than enough pressure for AB, has a moisture drain and is (most importantly) quiet and small enough to fit right on my bench. It's also adjustable.
Meeden Airbrush Compressor

 

[Edbert]

Keep a pad of paper near you to check your flow/spray pattern and practice.

This is EXCELLENT advice for anyone learning the ways of the airbrush. It is a good idea to hit the paper from time to time during your sessions too, particularly if you stop the airflow for more than say 5 seconds, definitely if more than 10-20 seconds. Once you establish a routine you won't even think about it but Before you press down on the air-valve while pointing at the model, hit the paper. You can stop for a second or two to transition your target from paper to kit, but that should be a rapid move. Doing this will help prevent any splattering or other malfunctions, you want to see those hit paper first.

Sometimes you can also do a flood-spray (all the way back) just to blow out the nozzle before proceeding to the kit.

Am I making sense?