Canopy

[TimM63]

This is an area I struggle with. Clean lines on the canopy. What technique do you use for getting clean line on the canopy framework?

 

[the Baron]

I use Tamiya tape, and a fresh Nr 11 blade. I lay the tape down, and burnish it with a toothpick as necessary, to see the framework. Then I cut along the framework lines, along the inside, the clear panel side, of the frames, and remove that tape. I'll use a toothpick again to burnish the cut edges down. Then apply the paint.
I haven't tried liquid masking yet, but I'm curious to try it some time.
Also, I have used pre-cut masks. That was with Eduard's P39Q kit; they were provided in the kit. They were pretty simple to use, too, replacing the cutting. I still had to burnish the edges down, though.
Hope that helps you!

 

[TimM63]

I use Tamiya tape, and a fresh Nr 11 blade. I lay the tape down, and burnish it with a toothpick as necessary, to see the framework. Then I cut along the framework lines, along the inside, the clear panel side, of the frames, and remove that tape. I'll use a toothpick again to burnish the cut edges down. Then apply the paint.
I haven't tried liquid masking yet, but I'm curious to try it some time.
Also, I have used pre-cut masks. That was with Eduard's P39Q kit; they were provided in the kit. They were pretty simple to use, too, replacing the cutting. I still had to burnish the edges down, though.
Hope that helps you!

Thanks for the reply. I have yet to get good clean lines using liquid mask. The last couple canopies I have done have been freehand.
I do have some Tamiya tape so I will give that a try using a toothpick and scalpel.

 

[Laurie]

I use Eduard "masks". They are made to fit precisely all the small areas on the canopy.
Picture below of a result.

Plus the masks are extremely thin. This stops a build up of thick paint at the edges.
Bed gently at the edges with a a smooth metal edge. Plus the masks remove easily.

After the paint has cured I carefully, with an American Blade score (gently) along the edges.
this gives a precis line & also facilitates removing the masks. No tearing of paint film.

The American Blades have a much finer blade than than Swan Morton. Put a bit of
masking tape on one end of the blade. Saves going through a blood transfusion.
Picture blade below. They have many uses.

Got a window cleaners holder for them. Picture below
Laurie

 

[TimM63]

I use Eduard "masks". They are made to fit precisely all the small areas on the canopy.
Picture below of a result.

Plus the masks are extremely thin. This stops a build up of thick paint at the edges.
Bed gently at the edges with a a smooth metal edge. Plus the masks remove easily.

After the paint has cured I carefully, with an American Blade score (gently) along the edges.
this gives a precis line & also facilitates removing the masks. No tearing of paint film.

The American Blades have a much finer blade than than Swan Morton. Put a bit of
masking tape on one end of the blade. Saves going through a blood transfusion.
Picture blade below. They have many uses.

Got a window cleaners holder for them. Picture below
Laurie
View attachment 102344
View attachment 102343

Thanks Laurie.
I have found I have much more control using a #15 scalpel. I am in the process of masking the canopy for the PBY.
I have included a picture of the scalpel with a toothpick next to it for scale

 

[Laurie]

Thanks Laurie.
I have found I have much more control using a #15 scalpel. I am in the process of masking the canopy for the PBY.
I have included a picture of the scalpel with a toothpick next to it for scale

You are very welcome. Gol.

I use 4 different scalpels but the blades are near twice the thickness of the American blade. Also the American has a very fine end.

The American blade has holes & you can attach a handle. Think I will try that.

But as ever what suits your own way of working is always the best.

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

I use Frog YellowPainter tape. Much thinner than Tamiya tape plus it lasts much longer. On certain WW2 aircraft canopies - particularly Luftwaffe aircrafts, I will invest in aftermarket masks.

 

[TimM63]

First ever mask of a canopy. Here is the PBY

 

[Laurie]

First ever mask of a canopy. Here is the PBY

Messages111

First ever mask of a canopy. Here is the PBY

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"For it is those of us who are cracked that let in the light"

Change that.

Mask on stopped the light bit of luck the paint also.

 

[plastickjunkie]

Pre cut masks are fantastic but the black vinyl ones tend to lift specially in compound curves so use the paper type from Eduard if possible. On simpler frame work I use the thin flexible white vinyl Tamiya tape.

 

[the Baron]

Pre cut masks are fantastic but the black vinyl ones tend to lift specially in compound curves so use the paper type from Eduard if possible. On simpler frame work I use the thin flexible white vinyl Tamiya tape.

Yeah, that's what I found with Eduard's masks for their P-39 kit. Even after burnishing the edges with a toothpick, some of the mask still lifted a little. But the same toothpick served to scrape away paint that crept under the edges, too. Not too bad.

Golanthius, I had the same thought about what looks like some paint that crept under your masking, too. You can use a toothpick to scrape it away, back to the raised edges of the canopy panels.

Thanks for your experience with a liquid mask compound, too. Sounds like it's not worth it to me to try it and change my process.

 

[TimM63]

Yeah, that's what I found with Eduard's masks for their P-39 kit. Even after burnishing the edges with a toothpick, some of the mask still lifted a little. But the same toothpick served to scrape away paint that crept under the edges, too. Not too bad.

Golanthius, I had the same thought about what looks like some paint that crept under your masking, too. You can use a toothpick to scrape it away, back to the raised edges of the canopy panels.

Thanks for your experience with a liquid mask compound, too. Sounds like it's not worth it to me to try it and change my process.

This particular canopy doesn't have raised edges. I had to hold it up to a light and cut along the edge. Thanks for the tip about using the toothpick to scrape the paint off.
I am going to freehand brush the bubble canopies and see how that goes.

 

[Laurie]

Yeah, that's what I found with Eduard's masks for their P-39 kit. Even after burnishing the edges with a toothpick, some of the mask still lifted a little. But the same toothpick served to scrape away paint that crept under the edges, too. Not too bad.

Golanthius, I had the same thought about what looks like some paint that crept under your masking, too. You can use a toothpick to scrape it away, back to the raised edges of the canopy panels.

Thanks for your experience with a liquid mask compound, too. Sounds like it's not worth it to me to try it and change my process.

Wow that is unusual. Never had any problem with Eduard masks.

 

[Laurie]

Wow that is unusual. Never had any problem with Eduard masks.

Thgought. Before applying the masks did you clean the canopy with IPA ?

When they come out of production the canopies are not clean for painting.
They have a residual junk from manufacture.

 

[the Baron]

Thgought. Before applying the masks did you clean the canopy with IPA ?

When they come out of production the canopies are not clean for painting.
They have a residual junk from manufacture.

Yeah, I wash my kit parts with warm water and a degreaser before construction.
I didn't think the curling at the edges was all that unusual, really, with the compound curves of the windscreen, and on the rear canopy. It wasn't severe, just along the edges. Not a big deal, just notable. The masks were a net positive, saving effort versus masking and cutting.

 

[Laurie]

On difficult efforts I have applied a very, very very thin coat on the edges
of the mask with Vallejo matt varnish which works well.

But it needs a fine cut on the edges before removing the masking.

Laurie