1/48 Hobbygawa Fw293A-2 / U1

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Looking good, I really like your mods.
Thanks !
I just lean parts against jars of paint or random pieces of plastic. HAHA
Hey , whatever works .
I go that route when possible .


Yesterday I got the stabs exactly where they need to be ,
then I fitted a slice of 1.5mm styrene atop the tenons to seal off that tail volume and anchor the stabs into position .
I had the jig inverted in the vise and with the slice wedged in there I slathered it with spru-goo .
it is now monolithic .

After that fully cures I'll mix up some less viscous epoxy and add that across the joint to strengthen and finalize the assembly

I switched to more powerful magnets .
It was immediately apparent that no tool could be ferromagnetic .
I had to make a 10mm wrench out of 2mm scrap styrene , ;)


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Presenting the Mirror Master 1000 .

Wherever one pointer is , the other is always in the exact reciprocal position from centerline .
This will make it easy to build to 1/10th mm tolerance , which translates to 1/2 cm tolerance in 1: 1 -- ugly , but ..

Stepless dimming LEDs .
+ / - 5 mm fine tune height adjustment .

No build pics , any questions just ask .

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I think it's more of a device than a jig .
an auto-triangulator .

This will make the build far more enjoyable .
Eyeballing this stuff ends up driving me crazy , and it's a pain trying to measure off reference points repeatedly attempting to verify accuracy .

It's super accurate .
It was the most direct method I could think of .
The bed and bridge was going to be longer but I didn't want to chop any long lengths of aluminum I have here , not for this -- and I have a fat stack of those short sticks of angle .
 
Yeah , that's why the wing pegs are mounted to those removable blocks and the rivet nuts are flush .
Clear field for the next one .
if and when it is ever needed again :D
maybe never , haha
I built it months back in my head . The only thing I added during construction was the spring loaded height adjustment .
I waxed all the sliding surfaces with Sno Seal . Love that stuff .
The angle is sliding on teflon tape .
Cadillac !
 
Presenting the Mirror Master 1000 .

Wherever one pointer is , the other is always in the exact reciprocal position from centerline .
This will make it easy to build to 1/10th mm tolerance , which translates to 1/2 cm tolerance in 1: 1 -- ugly , but ..

Stepless dimming LEDs .
+ / - 5 mm fine tune height adjustment .

No build pics , any questions just ask .

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Cool. PM
 
That white paint band was for a position indicator scale , but the pincer tips sit at 8 times that gear radius away , making the gear teeth barely move in relation to the tips , so the scale divisions would need to be too tiny to be practical .
Could still be useful with different pincers installed in the future .

The below arrangement reduces that 8.09 : 1 ratio down to 1.1 : 1 .
1.1 since it's restricted to material on hand - mainly the 3" radius of that old protractor .
It's just to provide a visual indicator for the tip positions for repeatability when needed so the actual values are irrelevant - plus , the protractor is marked out in degrees and not millimeters for some reason . Ridiculous .
It still barely moves since it is tracking only half the division . Moving the tips 1 cm apart moves the pointer 4.5 mm .
a 1 mm spread moves the needle only .45 mm -- 90% of half the total gap at the tips .

Good enough for now . I don't think it will even be needed on this build .

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Been a minute......or two since I've been on here but I am glad I peeped into this thread to see what's been going on. Jeez.........this is completely mind blowing stuff going on so far. WOW!!

You definitely have my attention bud.
 

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