Yes, Yes it is my fault. I'll admit it with a smile.
I have a large tackle box that I keep my tools and supplies in, in an extra tray I keep left over tubes and other parts I use a lot or miscut a lotLooking great! Thank God for tubing squirreled away. Like the squirrels though, my biggest challenge is finding it again!![]()
I'm going to fix the wires later. Planning on using some masking tape to make keepers and then I'll have them lay down and behave, thanks for the advice though.View attachment 142807
Did you know there is a spider on your engine..? lol
Those ignition wires should be lying down across the valley pan/intake not sticking way up in the air..it will cause problems when it comes time to install the hood / bonnet.
Coming along nicely DubJ
It is 14 inches from bumper to bumper. This makes the second 1/16th scale I've put together and I've got a lot more on my want to buy list.I recon I should pay closer attention, never knew there was a 1/16th scale car series, woof! Man, that's a huge kit, watching this one.
Cheers, Ski.
Well here are some more for yaNice! Great detailing!
...with all these close in shots, can't wait for the big reveal!![]()
I don't have a white paint pen, but I do have a liner brush that I've used in the past for delicate paint jobs (normally on figures. Thinking about touching up and correcting the border with that brush.Looking good. If you have a steady hand (I dont!) you could try a white paint pen on the stripes or even cut thin strips of white decal to use. The orange peel you could lightly sand out. Rather than stripping the whole thing.
Tried sanding it down but the orange peel reappeared when I applied the paint again. Just not as bad. What I'm thinking is that it is problem with the plastic due to the age of the kit and if I strip it down and maybe lightly sand it, that might clear the problem up. IDK though, thoughts?Agreed, orange peel can be sanded down and buried under clearcoat.
But that white stripe is a mess (and it will bother you in the future).
I guess I did not understand the whole liquid mask step.
It was totally the wrong method of masking.
Do everything in tape masking...only tape will give you that sharp clean straight edge.
And that's how I take it. Help and advice should always be welcome, and I do try to do that (doesn't always work that way I am human after allI say this only as constructive help, and definitely not a criticism of your build so far.
I'm loving it!
This is just a hurdle.
Not currently in my tool kit, I have actually never used it. I do have a little 3mm Tamiya tape (really need to get more). Can you get that fineline tape online and how much is it?Do you not have any fineline tape? or thin masking tapes.
If not, get some.
I prefer thin masking tape...never been a huge fan of vinyl fineline tapes, but I still use them.
Thinline tape (especially the vinyl stuff) can be slightly stretched and laid down in tight curves.
I used fineline(vinyl) tapes to lay out flames and pinstripes on helmets and gas tanks.
It can be used over top of white to block and save the stripe, while you then paint the red and blue areas.
(My suggestion: sand the model smooth. No need to strip all the paint.
Then loosely spray the white areas with no masking.
Then mask the white stripe with fine masking...and then respray the red and blue.
Then remove the fine tape to reveal the white stripe.)
Invest in decent masking tapes, it's worth it.
Better tape has cleaner, sharper edges, and better adhesion.
Some tapes are also more stretchy for curving.
And, after taping up an area to paint, spend a lot of extra time rubbing down edges for a tight seal.