While I have your attention: when I remove plastic glass from the sprue (is that the right term?) it often cracks or kind of shatters at the contact point. I cut the connection with my blade until it’s loose enough to pull free. Is there a better technique to help me avoid the “collateral damage”?
I tried the liquid mask without much success then just used my paint pen on the front window. Leaned it over the edge of the window a tad and that made a wide enough mark to pretty much cover the blackout area. The edge was a handy guide to help keep it straight. Not too bad for a rookie.
Ok, guys. I’m stumped again. I’m supposed to black out around these car model windows on the roughened surface . This feels like something that, after I try, I’m going to wish I hadn’t. Suggestions how to do this successfully?
Here’s a couple: (1) hood glues onto windshield glues onto dashboard. (2) bottom of vehicle (spray painted brown) one piece with body. This also shows roll bars which rested into each other.
Don’t know if this is the right forum but just finished this model and I’m glad it’s done. What happened to Revell? Poor quality. Poor fit (and way too many parts fit together one piece resting on another piece (eg, roll bars, dashboard…). And the body and chassis base (or bottom of the...
OH NO!!! After patting myself on the back for getting these pesky tiny mirrors together and gluing them with super glue, I discovered they are on wrong! Aargh! Maybe I can bend them into the right shape…..or yank them off again. Nuts!
Pantherman: you’ll see I use your idea. I fold over painters tape and use it on a paint stick. Same idea and it works pretty well to hold parts, etc (I always stick parts to be spray painted on this).