Takom 1/16 Panzerjager 1B

[wjbrandel]

I'm starting to prep this model for building, This will be my first tank model of this size. Should be fun.

I do like the spue pictures on the outside of the box

 

[wjbrandel]

And now even more plastic

Love the texture on the fenders

 

[wjbrandel]

And just when you thought the plastic was done

The tracks and pins. Need to make 97 per side.

Just a little bit of PE

Copper tow cable and metal barrel.

And that's all folks, yes that is a lot of plastic. I tried to go all out with PE and aftermarket, but I couldn't find a whole lot.

 

[Ron2]

And just when you thought the plastic was done
View attachment 194288View attachment 194289
The tracks and pins. Need to make 97 per side.
View attachment 194290View attachment 194291View attachment 194292
Just a little bit of PE
View attachment 194293View attachment 194294
Copper tow cable and metal barrel.

And that's all folks, yes that is a lot of plastic. I tried to go all out with PE and aftermarket, but I couldn't find a whole lot.

Doesn't look like you'll really need to much- that seems very detailed.

 

[Dr. Armor_72]

This will be epic build!

 

[kevin]

The metal barrel is a big plus.

 

[wjbrandel]

Doesn't look like you'll really need to much- that seems very detailed.

It is very detailed and the gates for the most part are in good positions, easy to clean off.

The metal barrel is a big plus.

It will be my first metal barrel with a model, should be very easy compared to the 4 part plastic barrel also in the kit.

This will be epic build!

I have 3 1/16 panzer 1 kits that I am going to build, thinking about a diorama for the 3 but the size...where would I put it

 

[Ron2]

It is very detailed and the gates for the most part are in good positions, easy to clean off.

It will be my first metal barrel with a model, should be very easy compared to the 4 part plastic barrel also in the kit.

I have 3 1/16 panzer 1 kits that I am going to build, thinking about a diorama for the 3 but the size...where would I put it

I've done two dioramas and three one away d/t size and display issues.

 

[Edbert]

I love the PJ1!

Looking forward to seeing this one go together.

 

[wjbrandel]

Did a little work

Wheel rims need a bit of clean up. The gates are on the side

And the rim cleaned up from the gates

8 road wheels and 8 return rollers done. The road wheels each had 5 parts

 

[wjbrandel]

Just a bit more built while waiting for oil paint to dry

Tiny parts 24 bolt heads and they go here

 

[Ron2]

Just a bit more built while waiting for oil paint to dry
View attachment 194654
Tiny parts 24 bolt heads and they go here
View attachment 194655

Wow.

 

[Edbert]

Wheel rims need a bit of clean up. The gates are on the side

You mean they are on the outside? It drives me crazy when they do that, or the ejector pin marks, they could easily be on the inside.

 

[BarleyBop]

This will be epic build!

Agree!
Big model, little vehicle, judging by the figure size... So much detail!

 

[Jakko]

You mean they are on the outside?

I think he means they're on the flat side rather than on the circumference. This makes them harder to clean up, but the ring will be perfectly circular without flats or other imperfections caused by cutting off the gates.

 

[Ron2]

I think he means they're on the flat side rather than on the circumference. This makes them harder to clean up, but the ring will be perfectly circular without flats or other imperfections caused by cutting off the gates.

So "gates" are where the sprue attaches to the part?

 

[Edbert]

So "gates" are where the sprue attaches to the part?

Yessir.

 

[Jakko]

So "gates" are where the sprue attaches to the part?

Yes. Well, technically it's where the part attached to the runner If you want to be accurate in terminology, the sprue is actually where the plastic pellets are injected into the mould, while the frame that holds the parts is the runner; the place where this narrows to attach to the part is the gate. The actual sprue is usually removed in the factory.

But in modellers' terminology, rather than plastic manufacturing terminology, the sprue is the frame the parts are attached to by means of the gates.

 

[BarleyBop]

But in modellers' terminology

The foot bone's connected to the —
ankle bone...
the ankle bone's connected...

 

[wjbrandel]

You mean they are on the outside? It drives me crazy when they do that, or the ejector pin marks, they could easily be on the inside.

Yep they are on the flat side. the flush nippers I have were good enough since you can't see that side after attaching them to the wheels.

Sorry I was gone fer a while, business has picked up a bit and I've been getting home late, not really wanting to stay up to late even for the forums

 

[Rockin' Rob]

The foot bone's connected to the —
ankle bone...
the ankle bone's connected...

You see? That's why I call him Joe College.

 

[BarleyBop]

I call him Joe

Could do worse!
My French Canadian grandad on my mum's side's name was Almanzor. So all the anglos at work called him Joe.

...and sometimes, if I spend just a little too long making sure something is locked, tied or properly put away, my wife starts singing that song from John Prine, "Safety Joe"!!

 

[wjbrandel]

Did some work on the hull. Yes that front arm is moving and made from 5 parts.

That front plate went on easy, no sanding or scraping needed

And the towing pintle is installed

So far this model has gone together very easily. The only complaint is the location of some of the sprue connections and on one piece the amount of ejector pin marks.

 

[Ron2]

View attachment 196091View attachment 196092
Did some work on the hull. Yes that front arm is moving and made from 5 parts.
View attachment 196093
That front plate went on easy, no sanding or scraping needed
View attachment 196094
And the towing pintle is installed

So far this model has gone together very easily. The only complaint is the location of some of the sprue connections and on one piece the amount of ejector pin marks.

I've done one or two takoms and my experience was about the same as yours has been. It's a nice build!

 

[wjbrandel]

Right now I think Takom is on par with Tamiya, my bar for excellence in model kits and I have 2 more Takoms in my stash I'm going to build, looking forward to them.

 

[Jakko]

In quality of moulding, I'd say Takom is pretty close to Tamiya. However, Tamiya easily leads in buildability and quality of the instructions — Takom kits give me the impression they only ever test-build them on their computer, and the instructions reflect that.