Thanks a bunch!
Once I knew what to look for, among other refs, I found this vid clearly showing how the box (two types) were attached to the pintle.
"We be in business Mr. B!"
M6 Gun Motor Carriage WC-55 2025-06
- Thread starter BarleyBop
- Start date
Once I knew what to look for, among other refs, I found this vid clearly showing how the box (two types) were attached to the pintle.
"We be in business Mr. B!"
Basswood .30 cal ammo box.
Will put slots along front edge once the brass hanger is built for attaching to the pintle.
I've made it a tad wider to accommodate my .30 cal PE ammo belt
Will put slots along front edge once the brass hanger is built for attaching to the pintle.
I've made it a tad wider to accommodate my .30 cal PE ammo belt
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Jakko
Well-Known Member
Wow … I would have built it from plastic card 
Ha, at the LHS, I noticed the Basswood strips in among the Balsa. It is more rigid, tighter grain, and not as soft as the Balsa, and the dimensions looked more or less right... so for the price, thought it might be worth a try!
Jakko
Well-Known Member
Looks like it was
Hanger plate for the box:
Next up: brass pintle and post to attach plate and gun.
Next up: brass pintle and post to attach plate and gun.
Drill out the .30cal for the brass barrel
Mount on pintle, along with ammo box, into two part post that can extend. I will cut to length when time to mount post in WC55
... still needs pistol grip, and ammo belt which will be added at the end.
Though it can't be seen in the ww2 photo, looks like bolts go right through the pintle and post. I may settle for adding carriage bolt heads on the pintle for detail.
Mount on pintle, along with ammo box, into two part post that can extend. I will cut to length when time to mount post in WC55
... still needs pistol grip, and ammo belt which will be added at the end.
Though it can't be seen in the ww2 photo, looks like bolts go right through the pintle and post. I may settle for adding carriage bolt heads on the pintle for detail.
kevin
Well-Known Member
Nice bit of scratch building
Thanks!
Gotta say, I really enjoy this part of model building!
I probably spend more time on these little details than the rest of the vehicle!
Jakko
Well-Known Member
That's gone very well, my only observation is that the upper parts of the mount seem to be bent outward. You may want to thin the gun a bit so it doesn't push against them?
Yup, initially I thought I'd need a bit of springyness to keep the gun in place. Slightly narrowing the gun might be one option...
Jakko
Well-Known Member
Better to drill holes through the mount as well as the gun and fix it in place with a piece of brass or plastic rod, IMHO.
Agreed, you know how it goes: the higher the number of tricky bits you get done, the higher the level of inertia you need to overcome to do more! 
Holes drilled, pin inserted in gun...
Assembled with carved sprue pistol grip and two sizes of carriage bolt heads:
Assembled with carved sprue pistol grip and two sizes of carriage bolt heads:
Jakko
Well-Known Member
Much improved
Edbert
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- Joined
- May 16, 2024
- Messages
- 3,121
If you're looking for constructive criticism, I think the wood grain is too large and distracts from the beauty of the other bits. If not, just say he word if you want me to shut up.
Can you fill in some of it with putty/glue? I'd suggest making the ammo box out of evergreen and paint the woodgrain on. I've found that to be surprisingly easy to pull off with a base brown of acrylic and some very thin streaking of oil paints (sienna and umber) to simulate the grain.
Can you fill in some of it with putty/glue? I'd suggest making the ammo box out of evergreen and paint the woodgrain on. I've found that to be surprisingly easy to pull off with a base brown of acrylic and some very thin streaking of oil paints (sienna and umber) to simulate the grain.
To your point, it still needs light sanding, priming and painting.
I have to say that I am discovering that a large part of my enjoyment of this hobby is working with different materials, trying different techniques, and lateral explorations of the historical aspects of the subject matter. I was delighted to find out that they were indeed made of wood, and holdovers from WW1.
So ya, for me, the experience of the build is as at least as important (if not more) than the final product... after all, that is why I love the process and the art so much!
A few hours today, painting mostly, OD on undercarriage and areas 'where the sun don't shine. The rest will be painted in a faded OD, with some shading and highlights.
Some wear on the seats.
Will have to put dash decals on before assembly.
Some wear on the seats.
Will have to put dash decals on before assembly.
kevin
Well-Known Member
Looking good
user 22148
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- Oct 3, 2024
- Messages
- 497
Just catching up with this build - all I can say is WOW. love the MG and its mount.
As one who brushes paint to another. That OD looks superb. What paints did you use? So far I've only rattle canned my WWII US OD, but it would be nice to have a go at brushing one.
As one who brushes paint to another. That OD looks superb. What paints did you use? So far I've only rattle canned my WWII US OD, but it would be nice to have a go at brushing one.
as mentioned above, using OD for under carriage and places in shadows, will be using faded OD everywhere else (not done yet).
I used a similar combo on my earlier WC52.
This time, I was out of my Aqueous 1000 black primer, so I used a MR. Color #12 OD to prime.
I will work some drybrushing of the darker and lighter OD for subtle blending, with a dark panel liner for details and then a lightened up faded OD for surface highlights.
Then bite the bullet and slather their DIY mud camo as in the Tunisia photos...
user 22148
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- Oct 3, 2024
- Messages
- 497
Thanks for that - much appreciated!
locomotive
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- Mar 2, 2025
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- 337
Feckin' awesome!as mentioned above, using OD for under carriage and places in shadows, will be using faded OD everywhere else (not done yet).
I used a similar combo on my earlier WC52.
This time, I was out of my Aqueous 1000 black primer, so I used a MR. Color #12 OD to prime.
I will work some drybrushing of the darker and lighter OD for subtle blending, with a dark panel liner for details and then a lightened up faded OD for surface highlights.
Then bite the bullet and slather their DIY mud camo as in the Tunisia photos...
View attachment 151472
Woohoo! back on the bench!
With Pavesi driver figure being subjected to protracted torture by oil, and the Mini still sulking in a corner time out for a less than acceptable complexion, might as well move the ball on this one.
Have some dash decals and detailing to do before assembly, but the bed can be put on... needing a bit of coaxing, but done.
Unfortunately (did I say unfortunately?), I mean looking forward with anticipation to family get-togethers over the upcoming long weekend, so it might be next Monday night before I make any more progress... on any of my current projects.
Possibly in the next couple of days... but given that the preparation required is directly proportional to the number of people to be entertained, we'll see...
With Pavesi driver figure being subjected to protracted torture by oil, and the Mini still sulking in a corner time out for a less than acceptable complexion, might as well move the ball on this one.
Have some dash decals and detailing to do before assembly, but the bed can be put on... needing a bit of coaxing, but done.
Unfortunately (did I say unfortunately?), I mean looking forward with anticipation to family get-togethers over the upcoming long weekend, so it might be next Monday night before I make any more progress... on any of my current projects.
Possibly in the next couple of days... but given that the preparation required is directly proportional to the number of people to be entertained, we'll see...
So I placed the dash dials decals from the kit. Looking at them before final placement, nope, they're not doing it for me.
Then I remember my Archer dry transfers - US gauges and interior stencils:
... but what goes where? A question I have asked before, for another vehicle.
With an offering to the Google of Delphi, pdf please, I find a operator's manual, with this:
Sometimes I feel like the research is as fun as the build!
and from my reference pics
Then I remember my Archer dry transfers - US gauges and interior stencils:
... but what goes where? A question I have asked before, for another vehicle.
With an offering to the Google of Delphi, pdf please, I find a operator's manual, with this:
Sometimes I feel like the research is as fun as the build!
and from my reference pics
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Jakko
Well-Known Member
For American vehicles, trying to find a technical manual is usually a good way to research details like this. Anything the crew actually has to operate or service will be explained and often shown in it.
Some work drilling out and adding 'rivets on a stem' as pull knobs for the dash...
kevin
Well-Known Member
Nice work.
Did you repurpose those "rivets" or fabricate them?
Did you repurpose those "rivets" or fabricate them?
Will have to sand the ends to round them off a bit, but styrene extensions should do the trick for dash lights. Tomorrow... tonight I have to get some shut eye after what sounded like a herd if raccoons ran across the carport roof that connects to the wall at the head of my bed... at 4 am... after which I couldn't sleep.
I have a stock of different sized rivets for this purpose, and as actual rivets...haha... at the LHS, I always check what sort of stuff is available in all the sections, RC, planes, armour, cars and trains.
I find that browsing in person I'm better able to imagine uses for the stuff I find.
