Anyone using a vinyl or frisket cutter here?

[Littlemarten]

I thought it was the same thing, just dropping the Hobby part. Mr. Hobby Aqueous is not the same s Mr. Aqueous? I also thought Gunze Aqueous was the same as those two. This stuff is getting out of control!

Trying to keep track of hobby paint branding is close to an exercise in futility, and Gunze is the worst of it. I stick with Tamiya and Vallejo.

 

[Edbert]

I ordered the Cricut and some vinyl reported to be super-thin.

Will probably take a bit to get the software setup and a drawing created.

 

[Edbert]

By "80-20%" do you mean 80% thinner to 20% paint? That's really thin, and at least part of the problem.

Yes that is what I meant, but I left way too much detail out.

I only use such a thin solution in final weathering, some modest post-shading of various colors and of course rust/exhaust/oil/hydraulic/gunsmoke stains and stuff like that mean to be mostly transparent.

For a base color coat I am usually 50-50.

I've NEVER had orange peel, but have DEFINITELY seen it dry too fast, putting a dust-like coating down. I usually have to "polish" with a soft cotton t-shirt to knock that down. Have been wondering why I paint flat when I apply a gloss on top of it...hmmm.

I always leave a color-coat for 24h before molesting it, but have seen fingerprints and tiny scratches from very kind handling practices, and any tape has to be applied to something like my forehead or backhand before putting on the paint or I am taking chances of damaging the finish.

 

[Littlemarten]

Have been wondering why I paint flat when I apply a gloss on top of it...hmmm.

Flat Tamiya is much easier to control, and their gloss paints tend to have poorer hide than the flats.

Ive heard of people applying the tape to their skin to reduce adhesion. What I do, if I think it needs it, is apply the tape to a cutting mat, press down firmly, and leave it there for awhile, anything from a few minutes to overnight or longer. The rubberized surface of the cutting mat apparently reduces the adhesion just enough, because I've never had it pull up paint.

Of course, at the rate I work, the paint is going to be thoroughly cured before I mask it, a matter of days.

only use such a thin solution in final weathering, some modest post-shading of various colors and of course rust/exhaust/oil/hydraulic/gunsmoke stains and stuff like that mean to be mostly transparent.

Try using a different type of paint for this, one that's water based. Alternatively, once you are ready to do the final washes, lay down a thin coat of Holiday House Quick Shine™. It's a glossy floor polish, the replacement for the old Future™ Once fully cured, it resists alcohol better than any other clear I've used, though if you soak it, it may dissolve.

 

[Jakko]

I thought it was the same thing, just dropping the Hobby part. Mr. Hobby Aqueous is not the same s Mr. Aqueous? I also thought Gunze Aqueous was the same as those two. This stuff is getting out of control!

I agree the names are confusing, and even the manufacturer doesn't seem to apply them all that consistently.

• "Gunze" is what they used to be known as, or actually "Gunze-Sangyo". Nowadays, the company name is GSI Creos but the name on the bottles is Mr. Hobby.
• Their lacquer-based acrylic paint is Mr. Color.
• Their alcohol-based acrylic paint is Aqueous Hobby Color or just Aqueous (which is what it says on the bottle).
• Their hybrid/something-based/water-soluble-lacquer/whatever paint is Acryson.

 

[Littlemarten]

agree the names are confusing, and even the manufacturer doesn't seem to apply them all that consistently.

• "Gunze" is what they used to be known as, or actually "Gunze-Sangyo". Nowadays, the company name is GSI Creos but the name on the bottles is Mr. Hobby.
• Their lacquer-based acrylic paint is Mr. Color.
• Their alcohol-based acrylic paint is Aqueous Hobby Color or just Aqueous (which is what it says on the bottle).
• Their hybrid/something-based/water-soluble-lacquer/whatever paint is Acryson.

Subject to change without notice … at least by me! I'm confused enough as it is!

 

[Edbert]

Alternatively, once you are ready to do the final washes, lay down a thin coat of Holiday House Quick Shine™. It's a glossy floor polish, the replacement for the old Future™ Once fully cured, it resists alcohol better than any other clear I've used, though if you soak it, it may dissolve.

Holloway not Holiday?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/seort/243976218

27 ounces would last multiple lifetimes, what do you thin it with?

I've been getting good results with X-22, as long as I use a thick coat and 24+ hours it holds up well to turpentine/white-spirit washes with both oils and enamels. Is the floor polish better? It is TONS cheaper for sure!

Edit: fixed the link.

 

[Littlemarten]

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Holloway-House-Quick-Shine-27-Ounce-Floor-Finish-Bottle

27 ounces would last multiple lifetimes, what do you thin it with?

That's it, though the link didn't work. I don't thin it at all. What's more, I apply it with a wide brush, rather than an airbrush. Airbrushing clear gloss coatings is more difficult that any other coating, because it's hard to see how much you have applied. Using this with a wide brush is actually easier. Don't apply a heavy coat—it's quite fluid and doesn't dry as rapidly as Future or X-22, and it levels better than either. Once fully cured it's very resistant to water, alcohol, and naptha (a.k.a. white spirit) as long as it's not soaked, but not "lacquer thinner," which is a blend of many solvents, some of which will dissolve almost anything.

I find that washes are easier to apply if you use a different solvent system. Since you primarily paint with Tamiya, you might consider using a water solvent paint for washes. Since I started using Vallejo washes, all my other wash materials (oil paints and their solvents) are gathering dust on the shelf.

 

[Edbert]

Would the use of MLT be part of the reason it is fragile, or do you think it is just my thin coats?

 

[Littlemarten]

Would the use of MLT be part of the reason it is fragile, or do you think it is just my thin coats?

Yes. Both. The best way to apply a thin coat is not to apply as much of the reduced (thinned) paint, rather than to increase the dilution. For a light coat, decrease the flow through the airbrush. Look at Barry's Hurricane build to see what I mean: https://www.scalemodeladdict.com/attachments/img_8343-jpeg.147811/

For a sprayed paint to polymerize (cure) there has to be enough of the paint droplets in contact with each other. Cut your dilution rate to around 50% and use Tamiya retarder. Other retarders may work, too, but finding out involves experimentation.

 

[Edbert]

Interesting video on the use of a Cricut for making masks for models.