i got tamiya glue on my clear plastic

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durangod

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when i glued my windshield in the glue ran onto the clear plastic.

Superclean does not work, should i use my plastic polish

20241001_204707.jpg
 
looking better. It also had paint and glue mixed. Most of that came off by scrubbing with qtip with alchohol on it by hand. Once that was off i realized a qtip fits perfect in my tool so that makes things faster.

20241001_223618.jpg20241001_230607.jpg

Here are the glues i have in the house. I also have wood glue, gorilla glue, and loctite extreme, shoe goo and similar glues in shop.

20241001_232135.jpg

My apology but i have never heard of pva glue.
 
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Do not tape the plastic before using solvent glue, if it gets under the tape the mess will be twice as bad. PVA is the better solution or Gorilla clear...
 
Just a tip for you, dip your clear parts in pledge before masking. Then if you get anything on them you can strip off the pledge and start over. That is if whatever you got on it won't penetrate the pledge, it also helps prevent fogging. So far I've had no issues doing it this way. Now dipping the clear parts is the first step of my build, so I don't forget.
 
" My apology but i have never heard of pva glue. "
That's the Elmer's Glue All
" polyvinyl acetate "
All the white glues and yellow wood glues are PVA or PVAc , the c being a compound monomer with a vinyl alcohol mixed with the vinyl acetate ( yes , I know , eye glaze )


this is good stuff , dries completely clear and higher adhesion on plastic over Elmer's ,
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catag...t=2&u=0&pg=2&ppp=48&sb=stocknumber_a&so=d&e=0
It is also a PVAc
 
looking better. It also had paint and glue mixed. Most of that came off by scrubbing with qtip with alchohol on it by hand. Once that was off i realized a qtip fits perfect in my tool so that makes things faster.

View attachment 125835View attachment 125836

Here are the glues i have in the house. I also have wood glue, gorilla glue, and loctite extreme, shoe goo and similar glues in shop.

View attachment 125839

My apology but i have never heard of pva glue.
Hi PVA is white glue , normally used for woodwork also called Polyvinyl Adhesive. Great when mixed with water to make a suitable spray for applying static grass. I would use rubbing alcohol first again mixed with water to release the surface tension for that .
 
" My apology but i have never heard of pva glue. "
That's the Elmer's Glue All
" polyvinyl acetate "
All the white glues and yellow wood glues are PVA or PVAc , the c being a compound monomer with a vinyl alcohol mixed with the vinyl acetate ( yes , I know , eye glaze )


this is good stuff , dries completely clear and higher adhesion on plastic over Elmer's ,
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catag...t=2&u=0&pg=2&ppp=48&sb=stocknumber_a&so=d&e=0
It is also a PVAc
Thank you for explaining :)
 
looking better. It also had paint and glue mixed. Most of that came off by scrubbing with qtip with alchohol on it by hand. Once that was off i realized a qtip fits perfect in my tool so that makes things faster.

View attachment 125835View attachment 125836

Here are the glues i have in the house. I also have wood glue, gorilla glue, and loctite extreme, shoe goo and similar glues in shop.

View attachment 125839

My apology but i have never heard of pva glue.

DO NOT USE SUPER GLUE ON CLEAR PARTS - including Gorilla Glue
 
@BlackSheepTwoOneFour
it was not superglue, it was tamiya. The only time i might use superglue on clear parts is when the superglue is only going to make contact with the stub of clear part and nothing else. For example a tail light on a bumper. I glue the back side only so not to fog up the front side. I never use SG on windows and stuff since i learned my lesson last month. :)
 
I do use PVA for stuff I intend to disconnect later.

Like putting landing gear covers on (as if in flight mode) to paint and then pulling them off without damage and peeling the glue off with a fingernail.
 
yes , it's only 7-1/2 cents an ounce at that amount .

What are you talking about that is 9 to 14 bucks for a 2oz bottle ?
I thought you were talking about that canopy glue and the price went thru the roof for some insane reason , but it's the same 3 bucks I paid for it years back .
I think it was 2.99 a couple years ago :
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catag...u=0&pg=1&ppp=48&sb=stocknumber_a&so=d&man=ZAP
Yeah i ordered same stuff but red bottle. When i first looked it up on ebay i got 9 to 14 bucks range in my results, but those were just price gougers and yeah i ordered at similar price. Thanks :)
 
I use Tamiya extra thin on my clear parts. It works best prior to painting but I've been doing closed canopies lately which are attached prior to painting the aircraft. For open canopies I attach the opened piece with PVA since the model is already painted and almost complete at that point. Don't want to mess up the paint with extra thin.
 
when i glued my windshield in the glue ran onto the clear plastic.

Superclean does not work, should i use my plastic polish

View attachment 125820
Yeah, the glue etched the plastic. SuperClean is a degreaser, a solvent, basically, and it won't undo the chemical etching that the glue caused. Like Momo and others have said, you have to polish it out, as fine as you can get it, then use a clear acrylic to fill in the fine scratches to make the surface as smooth as possible. That will let light pass through again with as little scattering as possible.
 

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