Questions: moving into "acrylics" for the 1st time ever and want to do modern "chipping"

Edbert

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I've been painting models with lacquer enamels since the 1970s ( still have about 70 bottles of "Testors Model Masters"), I started using an airbrush around 1981 or so, so I have experience with painting and (apparently) don't care too much about brain damage.

But it is a new century, and I need to reduce my exposure to harmful chemicals right? I bought a small assortment of Tamiya acrylics, only to find out they are not water based. Huh? Clearly I do not understand some things here, and it is far too complicated to ask for a full breakdown of the various brands and mediums. So let me narrow this down a bit.

I intend to prime the entire model, I have some Floquil that requires thinner and a can of Surfacer 1500, I do not think it matters which I use. But my intention is to cover the wear areas (for chipping) with metallic enamels due to their durability. Then I think I am supposed to put hairspray on top of that, is that right?

Once all is dried (overnight at least) I intend to use the Tamiya acrylic color on top, which can be softened with water and chipped with a toothpick or stiff brush.

Is that correct, did I get it right?
 
All but the " lacquer enamels " part .
No such thing .

The Tamiya acrylics are still water miscible like all acrylics , it's just that they are solvent based utilizing alcohols .
The resin is compatible with both alcohols and ketones .
 
Thanks, always glad to be set straight!

So enamels that are not water soluble, is that right? They require some pretty toxic solvents. This stuff gets complicated for sure, which is why I am asking :)

Do I have the rest correct? Put the hard/durable enamel silver down on the primer, then hairspray, then acrylic color coat to chip?
 
Yeah , alkyds ( enamels ) don't work with water . --- with the exception of the chemically modified ones that do , see Winsor&Newton Artisan series .
The reducers used for alkyds aren't necessarily that toxic .
Mineral spirits . Turpentine .

yes , your order of operations is correct . It can be done with all acrylic also if using hairspray or another release layer .
I go with alkyd primers all the time so I can remove the acrylic color coat if needed or facilitate chipping / fading - with or without a release layer like hairspray .
You can remove the acrylic with alcohol and not worry about it having any impact on the alkyd primer or base coat .
 
I've been painting models with lacquer enamels since the 1970s ( still have about 70 bottles of "Testors Model Masters"), I started using an airbrush around 1981 or so, so I have experience with painting and (apparently) don't care too much about brain damage.

But it is a new century, and I need to reduce my exposure to harmful chemicals right? I bought a small assortment of Tamiya acrylics, only to find out they are not water based. Huh? Clearly I do not understand some things here, and it is far too complicated to ask for a full breakdown of the various brands and mediums. So let me narrow this down a bit.

I intend to prime the entire model, I have some Floquil that requires thinner and a can of Surfacer 1500, I do not think it matters which I use. But my intention is to cover the wear areas (for chipping) with metallic enamels due to their durability. Then I think I am supposed to put hairspray on top of that, is that right?

Once all is dried (overnight at least) I intend to use the Tamiya acrylic color on top, which can be softened with water and chipped with a toothpick or stiff brush.

Is that correct, did I get it right?
Hi and welcome to the forum. Pantherman
 
Everybody knows enamels is oil based. Never water based. I use both enamel thinner and lacquer thinner when using enamel paints. Mostly enamels anyway. :)

I have used lacquer thinner to thin acrylics as well.
 

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