Why am i wasting money on primer

[durangod]

I have noticed many times that just normal handeling of model parts leads to both the paint and primer coming off. So why am i wasting money on primer at all?

example

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

I don't know. Why are you wasting money on primer? I've mentioned numerous time I rarely prime my kits. When I do feel like putting a primer coat on, I usually use Rustoleum 2X grey primer.

 

[durangod]

That is exactly what i use.

 

[Jakko]

I normally only prime metal and resin parts, and entire models only if they have a lot of those or if I intend to spray them with a water-based acrylic (like Vallejo or Ammo) for the first coat. When putting Tamiya or Mr. Aqueous paint over plastic, I've never found a need for primer at all.

 

[the Baron]

The discussion may involve-oh no!-chemistry!

People who prime a model, whatever material it's made from, to help improve the adhesion of their color coats. It also can help if you like to inspect your model as you proceed through assembly, by highlighting scratches, sink marks, and similar flaws that aren't as easy to see in the unpainted material.

Some people don't. There is no right or wrong way, there is what works best for each of us.

Now, I mentioned chemistry, because some paints work better for primers than others, and depending on the material the kit is made of. Lacquers make good primers for styrene, for example, because they're "hot" and can adhere well to the surface. Water-based acrylics, on the other hand, might not provide as durable a primer coat, because they probably won't "bite" in the surface as well. Some figure companies sold flat enamels, back in the day, for their white metal figures. Again, everyone will have his own experience.

There's also the question of whether to clean the parts. Again, some do, others don't. Years ago, it was generally so that companies used mold release agents, to allow their sprues to pop out of the dies more easily. So the kit came to you with some residue of those mold release agents. And many modelers washed the kit sprues with warm water and a degreasing agent, to ensure as clean a surface as possible. It's not really necessary with styrene kits today, but it doesn't hurt, either, if you choose to do so. Resin kits might require it, and this can vary from one manufacturer to another, depending on their process. Even white metal kits could stand a cleaning. Again, it might not be necessary, but it can't hurt if you do it. But how clean the surface is can affect how well paint adheres, whether it's a primer coat or finish colors laid down without primer.

I'll add that I generally clean the sprues when I start, but even with a clean surface and a primer coat, I've had Tamiya tape take off the finish color layers and the primer underneath. You just fix it and move on.

But there's no rule that says "You must prime everything you build" or "You must wash every kit you build!" There is everyone's experience, much of it shared, but a lot of it unique to to the modeler.

I don't worry about what others do. I'll observe it, note it, give them a thumbs-up of encouragement, and proceed as I have learned to do since I built my first model at 5 (a Model T, assembled with Duco Household Cement).

 

[Edbert]

If I am priming or not I always wash the exterior of aircraft down with alcohol on a tissue. Mainly to remove fingerprints or stray bits of glue or dirt that ight not be visible until you paint.

As far as priming or not, the 1500 surfacing stuff really does give a smooth even texture, so if your top coat (color) is going to be uniform color or any type of metallic finish you want the base to be as smooth and uniform as possible. I think there's also a case to be made for the primer to help you see blemishes or find gaps, but I kinda suck at that right now. Maybe it is because the black primer help hide gaps, I should try switching to a gray, although a lot of the metallic paints suggest a black base to make them shiny or something.

I seldom prime small stuff, or anything that will be hand-painted, only largish objects that will be airbrushed with Acrylic, enamel paint covers so well it doesn't need the help.

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

Yeah.. the downside of that 1500 primer stuff is very stinky. A mask is highly recommended. Great for filling in minor gaps too. Goes on silky smooth. Styrylenz stuff in my opinion are a mixed bag. Some folks like them, some don't.

As I've always mentioned, I rarely use primer unless I'm using delicate acrylics like Mission Models, Life Color, or whatnot. If my base color is an enamel color, I see no need to prime. Any delicate acrylics, I will spray a nice coat of enamel gloss clearcoat before going any further into my build. Saves me time in prepping for decal session.

 

[Plastic Pilot]

I always wash and prime my models, regardless of the material there made of, from my experience I notice that if you don't wash and prime the model kit or the figure, the paint will come off. There are a lot o videos on jewtube that explain why is it important to wash and prime the model.

Now it depends of the primer brand you use, and at what temperature and humidity you prime and paint. Because not all primers behave the same, the primers that are only form miniature painting and the ones for modeling don't dry and cure at the same time, and that is because of thickness of the layer an the composition of the primer, it's a long story here... about solvents, resins and other components of the primer.

 

[Jakko]

jewtube

I hope that's some unfortunate typo …?