Vallejo vs. Testors / Acrylics vs. Enamels

[luisito8m]

Hellos guys, I hope this is not a common question here in the forums, I've done online research and still do not understand when it comes to the battle of Acrylics vs. Enamels.

A little inside about me: I am new to the hobby (plastic modeling) and currently working on a Revell USS Constitution 1/196 and Tamiya US Military Set 1/35, not much experience on the hobby yet. I forecast that on the future I want to do weathering, be able to use washes, and get into military dioramas.

As far as I know, Enamels are oil based and need thinner/mineral spirits to clean up and dilute; Acrylics on the other hand are water based and very easy to clean up, I think acrylics need a primer to stick into it??

I know that each person has a preferred type, but I am wondering if someone could answer me on an un-bias standpoint from an overall perspective of the 2 products.

Which one stands above the other?

I've worked with Enamels so far, I like them, flat colors only, and yes, cleaning up is a bit of an annoying task. However, I am wondering of the pros and cons of both types besides the ones I've written above. I've never used acrylics.

I want to make sure that I am using the right type of paint accordingly to what I do and my skill, as well as what it is possible to do with it.

Thanks,
Luis

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

I have used just about every type of enamel and acrylic available in North America, and for my money, I will go with Vallejo every time.

Acrylic, yes that means you should not only wash your plastic, (which you should do anyway regardless of the paint you use) and prime the plastic so the paint has something to bite into (which is also a good thing to do regardless of the paint).

Easier clean up, more colors to choose from (200+ in the Model Color line, 120+ in the Model Air line, 48 in the Panzer Aces line, and another 100+ in the Game Color line, add to that all the primer colors)

Simply the best IMO, unfortunately you won't find them in every hobby shop. For example I am the only shop east of Ottawa (that I know of) that carries them.

 

[WebbyNZ]

I have Vallejo Model Air, Tamiya Acrylic and Tamiya Enamel (plus other stuff)
In a perfect world id do all the smaller parts with vallejo and larger glossy parts with zero paints or alclad.

My preferance changes depending on what im building.
I love the ease of the Vallejo droppers and the quick cleanup for smaller parts (car suspension/interors, bike engine parts etc) but for larger spray jobs like car/bike bodies ill head to the enamels as I find they give a better finish when correctly thinned as well as a harder wearing coat that wears gloss clearcoats and buffing better than acrylics.

 

[luisito8m]

... and for my money, I will go with Vallejo every time.

Thanks ECH; I am now more decisive on the direction that I have to go.

Since Vallejo is an acrylic, let me ask you a more direct questions, if you don't mind:

With enamels, I can achieve a very live color, is this also possible with acrylics?
How good are acrylics for details?
Do acrylic layer build up cause strip or chip more often that enamels?
Do acrylics need a perfect paint/water balance? Or that is the basic of a wash, to add a ton of water?

Thanks!
Luis

 

[luisito8m]

... and buffing better than acrylics.

There is buffing on enamel paint? I did not know of such thing. How is this done?

Thanks!
Luis

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

... and for my money, I will go with Vallejo every time.

Thanks ECH; I am now more decisive on the direction that I have to go.

Since Vallejo is an acrylic, let me ask you a more direct questions, if you don't mind:

With enamels, I can achieve a very live color, is this also possible with acrylics?
How good are acrylics for details?
Do acrylic layer build up cause strip or chip more often that enamels?
Do acrylics need a perfect paint/water balance? Or that is the basic of a wash, to add a ton of water?

Thanks!
Luis

I am not sure what you mean by "live" color.

Acrylics are great for anything detail or over all painting.

Providing you prep the surface properly, wash your parts to get the mold release off, since it is a petroleum product, we all know that oil and water don't mix, which is a big reason people have a problem with acrylics chipping or rubbing off. As well a good primer to give you a foundation for the paint to "bite" into is key, then acrylics are every bit as durable once "cured" as enamels or lacquers are.

As far as thinning Vallejo, for airbrushing the Model Air line is already pre-thinned for airbrushing, so no need to thin it, however I usually do give it a bit of Vallejo's AB thinner, about 5-6 parts paint to 1 part thinner, just enough to break the surface tension of the paint.

Their Model Color, Panzer Aces and Game Color lines are formulated for brushing painting, but can also be thinned for airbrushing, using Vallejo's AB thinner again, about a 50/50 ratio with the paint and you are good to go.

For brush painting, I generally just use water. The Model Color line is a bit thick out of the bottle even to be brushed properly, so I generally use just a drop of water with a couple drops of paint. Just makes it flow a little better. I am sure better results could be achieved if again you used their AB thinner instead of the water.

As far as polishing goes. Don't polish the paint, put a varnish gloss coat over the paint, let it cure and then polish it. I have done this many times with great success!

 

[luisito8m]

Very nice. Seems that acrylics will be the way to go for me. A bit disappointed that I just spent on enamel paint, but I guess that is always involved on the learning curve. Haha.

When relating to primers, are they good when applied by hand brush? which color do you find most useful?

Thanks
Luis

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

Very nice. Seems that acrylics will be the way to go for me. A bit disappointed that I just spent on enamel paint, but I guess that is always involved on the learning curve. Haha.

When relating to primers, are they good when applied by hand brush? which color do you find most useful?

Thanks
Luis

Vallejo primers can be airbrushed from the bottle, no thinning needed, just up your airpressure a bit on your compressor. They work very well. I have run into a few times where I thought I blasted way too much on it, but let it dry and the primer just shrunk it's way into the details and look awesome.

Vallejo makes 16 colors of primer, the most popular being Grey, White and Black of course, but they have other colors like German Red Brown, German Grey, US Olive Drab, Russian Green, UK Bronze Green, etc, etc.

Basically a primer and paint combo. For example if you were doing something in a NATO 3 tone, you would start with the NATO Green primer, lays down the primer and your base coat green at the same time, then just have to follow it up with NATO Brown and NATO Black to complete the camo. Basically eliminates a step in the painting process, as before you would lay down a primer coat, and then lay down a NATO green base coat...the primer just allows you to skip a step, and save a few pennies in the process because you are only buying 1 paint to do the job of 2.

They brush paint well also, however I find that the paint is a little tougher once cured if it is airbrushed. Having said that, I have pretty much replaced my normal Flat Black, with their Black Primer for brush painting.

 

[ahmed malik]

Very nice. Seems that acrylics will be the way to go for me. A bit disappointed that I just spent on enamel paint, but I guess that is always involved on the learning curve. Haha.

When relating to primers, are they good when applied by hand brush? which color do you find most useful?

Thanks
Luis

i just brush paint, and i cannot find a primer decent when brushed on, so i almost always use spray cans.
btw, this video will help a lot when painting, and be sure to experiment.
How to hand paint Gunpla/Mecha

 

[luisito8m]

Thanks for the video Ahmed, quite instructive.

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

Very nice. Seems that acrylics will be the way to go for me. A bit disappointed that I just spent on enamel paint, but I guess that is always involved on the learning curve. Haha.

When relating to primers, are they good when applied by hand brush? which color do you find most useful?

Thanks
Luis

i just brush paint, and i cannot find a primer decent when brushed on, so i almost always use spray cans.
btw, this video will help a lot when painting, and be sure to experiment.
How to hand paint Gunpla/Mecha

Give the Vallejo primers a try for brushing. They brush well and shrink down to give a nice even "skin" over the plastic. Works really well.

 

[luisito8m]

Give the Vallejo primers a try for brushing. They brush well and shrink down to give a nice even "skin" over the plastic. Works really well.

Will definitely do, as soon as recover from purchasing my last supplies. Haha. ;D

I guess meanwhile I will be looking at the Vallejo color choices, very very extensive. Oh and new brushes, I think it would be a bad idea to use my enamel brushes for acrylics.

Thanks for all the advice Scott!
Luis

 

[urumomo]

If you don't have an airbrush -- like me --- I've had very very good results using the Rustoleum rattle can primer that is designed for plastic adhesion without ever cleaning the plastic beforehand Especially if you allow the primer to cure for several days ( the can says 5-7 day for full plastic adhesion ) (on Hasegawa ,Revell,Tamiya styrene)
Even very small parts can be prepped and coated --the only problem being the spray nozzle is of course not adjustable and designed for the ' average ' job so there is a lot of waste but at 3.75$ a 12oz can it doesn't hurt too much.
I have not yet used Vallejo acrylic yet but would rip it out of a baby's hand and abscond with it if given the chance from all the hoopla I hear about it ! Right now the shipping costs is equal or greater than what I'd buy to check it out ( maybe Elm City will shout out some discounts LOL! )
You can purchase an infinite infinite range of acrylics from your local art supply store if you live in or near a major city that will certainly perform well .I paint canvass too so I already have an arsenal of acrylic and oil colors
I agree , though , that overall you will grow to prefer acrylics for much more than the ease of cleanup !

 

[luisito8m]

( maybe Elm City will shout out some discounts LOL! )

You can purchase an infinite infinite range of acrylics from your local art supply store if you live in or near a major city that will certainly perform well.

Haha, yea! A discount would be magnificent, specially since ECH is a Canadian Store and I live right on the US south border, shipping is definitely too much based on where I live.

Anyways, I live at a small town (perhaps a very tiny city), we have a hobby lobby store near by my house and that is where I get all my stuff from, not the greatest selection, but at least is giving my a great push on a start. Been trying to get a self-healing green cutting mat for 2 months already, and no restock. :'( Will visit them on Saturday, I am sure I saw Vallejo paints next to the Testors enamels, if they don't have a good selection of colors I would have to find an online seller, but besides ECH that resides on a different country, I don't know anyone else.

@Scott,
Any discounts currently available? ;D Hehe or Perhaps a beginners discount? I promise to buy a bunch of colors!

 

[urumomo]

Scale Hobbyist has Vallejo ,( think they're up in NH ? --northeast ,,I'd have to look ), I got a small order from them about 2 months back on some Microset ,Microsol,decal film and some clearcoat sprays ---- think it was ` 15 $ and the shipping was 7-8 bucks , shipping $$ seems the same no matter who sells it . got here in bout 3 days ;D
I honestly havn't looked at what Hobby Lobby and Michaels Art Supply around here carry --I'm pretty well stocked with paint and used to mixing colors and mediums to get exactly what I need so paint's never on my list . I'm going into Houston this weekend so I'm gonna take a look
As far as a cutting board goes ; I've always used a piece of plywood cut to the table top size . Being a carpenter surrounds me with copious amounts of leftovers . Been using the same piece of 3/4" lumber-core plywood on my work table for ever . Home Depot etc sell less than full sheets and if you have any construction going on around you stop by and ask for any 'fall-off' ---scrap ----especially if there are finish carpenters around doing cabinets etc as they'll have ply with at least one good,smooth 'A grade' face ! You can always abut small pieces together to get the area you want

 

[CDA 455]

Good paint tech here.


I'm getting back into modeling and am 20 years behind of tech, etc.

Thanks for sharing the info!