Satyr's DeAgostini Millenium Falcon Build

OK... I finished the Hero Nav Chair for the Cargo Lounge. Added the radar dish to the top, and made a set of headphone/microphones out of a piece of beading wire that I hammered flat and then carved the "speaker" end with my Dremel. I also added all the rivets... wish I could have gotten them more uniform but at this scale even using a needle doesn't work consistently. So on with the pics and lemme know what you think!

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I did some comparative pics last night and came to the conclusion that I'm gonna have to rebuild the lounge chair from scratch. It's too tall. Which is odd because the cockpit chairs are close to perfect. Here's the pics to show you what I mean.

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The top of the chairs should be right about where the top of the top lightbar is on the back wall... mission accomplished.

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However, as you can see above, the top of the nav chair should be about the same height as the top of the nav console. It's about a foot too tall and with the radar dish is even taller then the doorway... so that leads me to 1 of 3 options... 1) Either leave it as is and continue on with the build... 2) Buy one of the Shapeways printed ones and give up... or 3) Build a new one from scratch. Seeing as I'm not a quitter, I think I'm gonna have to go with 3! Stay tuned!
 
OK... long overdue for an update here... so here we go. Ok all... got some good news I believe. For those of you who have been wanting to use the replacement stickers, I've found that althou the backwall is accurate, it doesn't quite work with the backwall part that DeAgo supplies with the kit... so I had to figure out a way to fix that. And here it is...

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Yep... that's right... Satyr is 3D now! Muahahhaahahahahahahahha! Give this a try as a replacement to the backwall and all the lights should line up perfectly. I also didn't put the holes in for the fibers but I did thin out the back... reason being is that at the cheaper plastic, it doesn't allow for holes smaller then .7mm and since most fibers are .2mm if I put in the hole it just wouldn't work, however, since all the lights on my graphic are right there, you have a perfect template for drilling the fiber holes yourself. Little more work, cheaper price. Sorry Tony... Had to do it! Hope this helps everyone out and I look forward to hearing about your experiences!

Here's the link for the part on Shapeways: https://www.shapeways.com/product/D2...ionId=58465112
 
Alright all... here's my second contribution to the 3D printed arena... I had to remake the bunk sidewall to be more accurate to the ESB... so here ya go... lemme know what you think

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You can get it here: https://www.shapeways.com/product/CHSZEFTNR/deago-esb-bunk-wall?optionId=58481587

And before anyone jumps on me for remaking something that is already on Shapeways, lemme show ya sumpin! There are 2 other Bunk Walls on shapeways... and both don't even come CLOSE to the one in the movie... mine is probably the closest you'll find anywhere... here's a comparison so there's no doubt!

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The only thing missing from mine are the hoses but only because they can't print that small a diameter hose, however there are plenty of connection spots for gluing wires in the properly places!
 
If you can't tell, I've been having fun in 3D and seeing as there isn't much available in the figure department in 1:43 scale, I figured I would take a stab at it. Here's the moment of truth and I'm sure I'll get alot of flac for this... but... I've been busy working on some figures for printing... still thinking of a bunch of others but for now, I've got 20 different figures but not quite ready for print yet. However, all are scaled to 1:43 to work with the DeAgostini Falcon. Here's a photo render of what I've got so far.

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OK... here's the list of what I've found so far... Chewie, 3PO, Obi-wan, Lando, Lobot, 3 different Bespin Guards, a Stormtrooper, Leia in 5 different outfits (ANH Robes, Hoth, Bespin, Yavin and Slave outfits), Luke in 3 different outfits (ANH, Jedi, and Yavin outfits), and Han in 3 different outfits (ANH, ESB, and ROTJ). I'm still working on a Hoth Stormtrooper and perhaps Vader, but not quite sure yet (maybe a hoth rebel as well).

Now... here's the big question for everyone. I could leave them all in a standard pose like this and print them up and have you the modeler cut the arms and legs and pose them the way you want OR (and here's the tricky part) I could pose each one myself and offer a different figure for purchasing in different poses... so if I want to make a standing or sitting pose, that would be two different parts to order! I'm going to let you all talk about it for awhile to make up my mind as to what I'll end up doing.

The way I personally see it is this... As long as they are in the scale needed, I can cut them up and pose them the way I want without having to buy 3 or 4 different ones in different positions because I may want the figure in a certain pose, but someone else will want it in another pose. That's just me... so what do you all think? Lemme know and I'll get back to working on a couple others and see what else I can come up with.
 
Alright all... you wanted them... you got em... I have Han, Chewie, and Leia done and ready for grabbing at Shapeways... feast your eyes on the wonder! :)

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Now of course I couldn't forget R2... there are 2 different 3 legged versions out there, but not a 2 legged which looks alot better in the hold against the chess board (they never did show R2 in 3 legged mode on the ship, only 2 legged)

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Now the reason they are all in the standard pose is because if you want to put them into a particuler pose (sitting, standing, cross legged on the floor) go for it. Just cut the arms/legs off and reposition them yourself. But for me to have to reposition each figure in 30 different poses makes no sense! I've been trying to keep the prices of them under $15... Chewie can be printed in many different materials (Even GOLD!) So... if you want them, there they are... here's the links for them...

Han: https://www.shapeways.com/product/8EXJDSA76/1-43-scale-han-solo-in-esb-outfit-for-deago-falcon?li=shop-results&optionId=58542033
Chewie: https://www.shapeways.com/product/REU3S9QJR/1-43-scale-chewie-for-deago-falcon?li=more-from-shop&optionId=58534675
Leia: https://www.shapeways.com/product/MY7J6CU6X/1-43-scale-leia-in-hoth-outfit-for-deago-falcon?li=shop-results&optionId=58535495
R2: https://www.shapeways.com/product/ZCX4KVUF7/two-legged-r2-d2?li=more-from-shop&optionId=58510597
 
Wow... I can't believe I've let this go for so long without an update. Hard to maintain so many updates sometimes... here's what I've been up to lately. Been going full throttle on 3D Shapeways designs... since I made my first few figures, everyone has been hounding me about them... but we discovered something.

The cockpit parts that DeAgo supply are too big in scale to the model (1:41.5 approx). Even thou they fit, the cockpit is squeezed and disproptionate to the actual scale. Now... to top all that off, we've discovered the interior is actually a smaller scale than that... it's more like 1:47.3!

So... what happened was this... I made my figs all standing at 1:43 scale and everyone complained that they wanted them sitting... so I spent a couple of weeks and bent all my figs so they were sitting (even thou I didn't want to do it). But, here's the catch... people loved them until they discovered that they could fit the figs under the dashboard. So I shrunk them down about 10% thinking that would solve the problem, now they are too small.

But here's the real kicker... It's not that they were the wrong size, no... they were perfectly sized to begin with, the pose they were in with their legs bent made fitting them under the cockpit dashboard impossible without heavy modification. So what am I to do? I pull them all down and begin pulling their arms and legs off and put them on sprues. Now I also have to make them all in 2 different scales (1:43 for the cockpit and 1:48 for the interior). But now all the people that have been wanting these for their Hasbro Falcon builds are happy as can be because the 1:48 scale is perfect for them.

Also along the way I've made a few other little upgrade detailed pieces for this kit... here's a few pics of some of the parts I've made so far... you can check out my entire Shapeways shop here: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/satyrsmodels

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Needless to say it's been keeping me busy... lots more stuff available there. But I have gotten a bunch of my own 3D printed stuff recently and can finally start working on finishing my interior! More to come!
 
It's been awhile... I've been doing alot of work lately and getting things ready for painting... got the underside all together and ready... here's a few pics of what I've got done so far.

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I started working on the bottom details as well... love detail on the back engine.

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And when everything is in place... oh mamma!!

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Also got the recess pits finished

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Really starting to come together!
 
Something I was looking at are these stupid indented "damage" marks all over the hull.

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Been thinking about what to do to make them more realistic. I've seen all kinds of approaches to the problem and I'm sitting here thinking that the marks themselves are in the proper place, even the correct shape. I'm thinking that when they did a scan of the hull for these places, the computer couldn't interpret what was actually there and used a default setting to just make an indention instead of the actual way the damage was on the hull... and that got me thinking. Perhaps if I just took the harsh edges off the sides of them they might look alot better. So, I got out my dremel and a fine bit and went to town on all the damage marks. I think they came out looking alot better... what do you think?

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Came out looking better than I expected

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What do you guys think?
 
Well seeing as I'm waiting for my paints from DOA to arrive I figured I would make myself a Airbrush Spray Booth so I didn't get paint all over the floor. So I went to Walmart and picked up the follow supplies...

- 7 sheets of 30x20 foam core board
- 1 12x12x1 Hepa filter
- 1 12 inch square battery operated/ac adapter powered box fan
- 1 cheap power strip
- 1 cheap under cabinet fluorescent light

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Total was under $50 bucks... not too bad. I started with a basic design...

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Since the sheets were 30x20 inches I figured I would use one whole sheet for the working area. So I set to cutting out my sheets.

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Not having a compass, I discovered that using a paper plate it was the perfect size for the opening in the fan, and by folding it in half horizontally and vertically I could find the center with no problem. I used it to cut a hole out of one sheet and then hot glued my fan in the center of it. I made sure that I filled all the gaps to make it air tight.

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I cut a wire coat hanger and used a few bolts, nuts and washers to hold the filter to the inner wall. This will allow me to change out the filter relatively easy. I used some weather stripping on the back side of the filter to give it a better seal against the opening I cut and started putting all the parts together.

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Got everything together with duct tape and some hot glue alot all the inside edges to make it air tight... here's the final outcome and first test run.


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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZvrAg7SoHY[/youtube]
 
I've been testing various other base paints to use as a substitution for the hard to find Tamiya Insignia White. I tried out 4 different Krylon colors and my initial thoughts were correct. The colors I tried are Almond, Ivory, Flat White and Aqua. Here's what they look like and are pretty readily available just about everywhere in large supplies (so no need to worry about them running out of stock any time soon).


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I took some paint swatches I got from walmart and painted them each color to test against the unpainted hull and then took photos under a Daylight bulb. Its a bit lighter which is a good thing because after weathering it's gonna be darker anyway. You can see the results for yourself.


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So I'm definitely going with Ivory... I went ahead and painted the top turret and placed it on the unpainted hull and you can definately see how nicely it looks!


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Phenomenal work you are doing here. I am about six months into my DeAgostini parts coming in. Part of me wants to start right away but part of me wants to wait. I am enjoying the work you are putting into this!
 
amateurmodeler said:
Phenomenal work you are doing here. I am about six months into my DeAgostini parts coming in. Part of me wants to start right away but part of me wants to wait. I am enjoying the work you are putting into this!


Thanks bro... appreciate it! I know I waited a month before starting myself. I've got 2 months of parts that I haven't even opened yet. There's alot of planning and thinking about what you want to do before you attack it. Always good to have a game plan... but it's worth it... trust me!
 
Quaralane said:
Ivory would have been my choice there as well.


Yeah the Ivory looks like it's the clear winner here. The Almond had it's promises... its a little darker and closer to the actual plastic color, but a little too dark, and since I'll be layering colors on top of this, the Ivory will look darker afterward anyway. Besides all that... it's only $3.00 for a 32oz can that should last the entire build. Instead of $5.00 a piece for the small 3oz cans of the Tamiya Insignia White... of which you need at least 3 of to cover it and lets not even mention the fact that you cannot find it ANYWHERE now. Which works out to $15.00 for paint which could be done for 5x less with a common over the counter find anywhere brand! I think it makes alot more sense!
 
Mental note to self... remember that not all lights are as cool as LED bulbs are now!

So here's the situation... Here I am happy as can be using my new spray booth and everything is going great... I get up from it for a moment and turn my back and all the sudden I hear CRASHHHHHHHHHH! The florescent light strip I was using in the hood I had attached with hot glue thinking it would be good enough to hold it with no problems seeing as its a florescent bulb... well I was wrong... it got hot enough to melt the glue and the whole think came crashing down... luckily the bulb didn't break. So I drilled a couple of holes in the top of the hood and reattached the lamp and now everything is right with the world again! I'm just glad that nothing was damaged (including none of the parts I was working on including some printed pieces!)

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