Ma.K Snake-Eye 1:20

Scrach

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Aug 16, 2013
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I decided to dig through the stash and start posting all of my WiPs...

Most of the metal base coat is on. Plan to do hair spray for chipping and then the white 'factory' paint job, chip it up, then follow with hairspray again followed by the shark mouth/ camo scheme and then chip and weather it. It's just waiting on me to get it in the spray booth.

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Note the added 'fuel lines' on the engine nozzles...
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Baron, a light layer of Tamiya primer smoothed out with a white (000 ?) scotch-brite made for a nice base.

GoFlight, hopefully there will be an update sooner than later.
 
Scrach said:
Baron, a light layer of Tamiya primer smoothed out with a white (000 ?) scotch-brite made for a nice base.

GoFlight, hopefully there will be an update sooner than later.

Ooh, cool! You can use a little coarser grade of ScotchBrite pad to do some scuffing through your top colors down to the metal base (as long as you don't do like I did the first time I tried the technique--I grabbed a can of enamel instead of acrylic. D'OH!)
 
Sounds like something I'd need to test out on my paint mule... I could see that technique getting away from me.
 
I learned about it through the MaK forum, though I think it's popular among armor modelers.

In my case, I use Army Painter matte black enamel as a primer. It dries/cures to a nice, hard surface. Then the finish colors go on, using acrylics. Then you take a nylon scouring pad and scuff the acrylic down to the lower coat. It works pretty well to replicate scuffing and chipping. But you really do need to use a hard base, and acrylics over it. Enamels cure to a hard finish. What I had to do with mine, once I realized my mistake, was to use sandpaper to scuff. That removed the top color, but it also scratched the surface. All because I was in a hurry and grabbed the color in a rattlecan, without thinking that it was an enamel and not acrylic. Had I taken the time to use the airbrush, I'd have selected an acrylic instead.
 

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