Liquid glues

pro

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Hello do you use liquid glues. I have used it for decades it goes on clean get hardly any residue and parts weld very well . Unfortunately it been getting very expensive the tiny bottles getting pricey got into scratch building buying plastic from a plastic house and found my glue in pint cans the bottles two bucks an ounce a pint 16 ounces for six bucks. Then ten thirteen sixteen the eighteen now twenty. Most liquid glues are solvent base thought about it so it lacquer thinner tried it it works, I've used lacquer thinner for about five years now and have had no problems sometimes have to do asevond application as it evaporates very fast but for the most
part it does the job at twelve bucks a gallon. After five years my gallon is gone used it for cleaning and paint thinning as well. So if your tired of expensive glue try lacquer thinner and see how it works for you.
 
Yep , or straight acetone , unless you like the high from toluene :D
Although a lot of lacquer thinners are mostly acetone now , with low low quantities of MEK and toluene etc
 
Yep , or straight acetone , unless you like the high from toluene :D
Although a lot of lacquer thinners are mostly acetone now , with low low quantities of MEK and toluene etc
I tried acetone lol must have applied too much ate a hole oops
 
Tamiya's Extra Thin is half acetone , half butyl acetate .
Melting polystyrene is kinda easy :D , so any lacquer thinner is going to work but you always need to look at the MSDS if proportions or even the existence of various solvents is important ... usually only critical when spraying lacquers
 
I mostly use tube glue, but will use liquid on occasion when warrented. I personally think it's best for stuff like scratchbuilding stuff meant to be inside something, or for tacking stuff together that is too thin for tube glue. I won't use it for anything structural, or small thin parts unless I use a toothpick as an applicator.
 
I'll usually just buy a big can of IPS Weld On or Tap Plastics cement and then transfer what I need into empty Tamiya bottles. I use a lot of it, and a can will last me a couple of years.
 
I'm still using a 3 year old bottle of Tamiya extra thin and their regular thicker slow dry cement for everything and they both last a long time, still on my original bottles of each, though the thin is just about to it's end.
 
I use Tamiya's Extra Thin, and also Testor's, in the odd-shaped bottle with the long thin spout. I had started with Plastruct's Weldene and Bondene, when I first wanted to work with liquid styrene cements.
I use them for things like attaching fuselage or hull halves, upper and lower halves of wings, and other applications where it's convenient and easy to let the glue flow along the join and flow into it through capillary action. It's also part of the technique to minimize seamage by squeezing gently along the seam to extrude a bead of melted plastic, that, when cured, can be scraped away and is easier to clean up.
I still use good ol' Testor's tube glue, but for attaching things where I want a little more leeway to make adjustments. Assembling and re-assembling styrene figures, for example.
I said I started with Plastruct's glues, but I use Tamiya and Testor now. That was really more because of the applicators that come with Plastruct's glues. They're relatively large brushes, so precision application is a little trickier. I know I could use old paintbrushes, or fashion an applicator. But the brush in the Tamiya glue is nice and fine. But those all work pretty well, I found.
 
I only use the tube stuff when I'm going to need to fill gaps in styrene, or for special effects.
These days, I use almost exclusively liquid cements for my model work
 

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