JU-87 One you wont see from me again. COMPLETED

smokeriderdon

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OK, so I am not big on WWII planes. There are some I like, but not a whole lot. And I certainly am NOT a fan of doing German subjects. BUT, the Stuks has always been one of those planes I just like. So I have had this kit in the stash for a while and decided to dig into it. Its an interesting kit how they have the parts off sprues bagged.

But to the question. I managed to find a pic of the actual plane and not someone's model. The question is a two parter. Are there one or two greens on this scheme? Ive seen both done. And what are the colors? I know its more a case of opinion than anything, but curious to see what others think.
 

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Did a couple of 262's and a 109, the basics RLM kit from Vallejo was adequate.
 

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I avoid acrylics like the plague. Dont like em at all.

I did get some direction from a FB group towards some articles that listed the like RLM colors. I got some Humbrol in those and will go with them. They should be close enough.
 
So, they would have you screw together the wings and the fuselage halves. Whatever. I glued them. BUT, that leaves the holes to put the screws in. They provide caps, but they are NOT adequate. So, putty and sanding that is totally not necessary. *sigh*
 

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I am waiting for the Humbrol paints to get here. If they would only make them in bottles like normal paints...

Got the holes all filled and sanded. White primer on bottom. Semi gloss black on top. I ran out of flat and didnt realize it.
 

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OK. I ordered the Humbrol paints in the RLM colors for this. The only one that I have issue with is the RLM78. It is NOT a blue of any sort. And no, it doesnt magically change when it dries like some on FB tried to suggest it might. So I broke down and ordered a bottle of acrylic RLM65, the other blue that was used and is called out in some sources. In the meantime, I sprayed the lighter green on. A little more seam work and I will be doing the black green. I m full on painting the two green splinter camo that had the brown painted over.
 

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Well, I got the Mr Color RLM 65. As pointed out, I may have said before, I detest acrylics, but I had no choice. At least it is solvent based and might actually bite in and not lift when masked. Hard to tell in the pic, but this one IS blue.
:)
 

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Masked and sprayed the black green. Turned out really well. I dont want to spray the tan on now! LOL
 

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So, I got the tan on. Then discovered I had managed to lose the struts for the stabs. Great. So I went ahead and made some. Not great, but they will work I guess. And left side decals on.
 

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Finished up the 1/32 21st Century Stuka. The paint scheme isnt perfect, but its pretty close to the reference pics I found.
These guys got the snake colors correct whereas Revell and Hasegawa did it in red, which, as it turns out, it was not. The kit is decent. Lacking in detail. Fit is slightly better than average. Decals were brittle, but not hard to deal with. Instructions are not that great.

I didnt mess with trying to find after market for it. It looks good OOB, even if lacking in some details.

But, fairly enjoyable kit over all.
 

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Finished up the 1/32 21st Century Stuka. The paint scheme isnt perfect, but its pretty close to the reference pics I found.work
These guys got the snake colors correct whereas Revell and Hasegawa did it in red, which, as it turns out, it was not. The kit is decent. Lacking in detail. Fit is slightly better than average. Decals were brittle, but not hard to deal with. Instructions are not that great.

I didnt mess with trying to find after market for it. It looks good OOB, even if lacking in some details.

But, fairly enjoyable kit over all.
Nice work.
Pantherman
 
I avoid acrylics like the plague. Dont like em at all.

I did get some direction from a FB group towards some articles that listed the like RLM colors. I got some Humbrol in those and will go with them. They should be close enough.
I use both acrylics and enamels all the time. Tamiya are acrylics and are great for airbrushing. Some folks say they are awful for handbrushing - which I had no issues handbrushing them. Tamiya also carry lacquer paints as well but they are smelly.

But back on track… acrylics are a whole different animal. They require a primer coat for better adherence when using acrylics. No different than having a primer coat for enamels. Humbrol are great paints but they come in small tins - thus you will need to buy more for your paint stash should you use them up. Nothing wrong with Humbrol paints, just not economically viable for me.

As I’ve mentioned above, I use mostly acrylics and enamels. Some enamels are decades old from my youth years and still good in the bottles. Here’s my paints brand list I have in my stash…

Tamiya acrylics - I do have one bottle of their lacquer line; Titanium Silver
Testors Model Master acrylics and enamels
Testors enamels in square bottles
Mission Models acrylics - these paints are highly recommended!
AK Interactive Real Colors - also highly recommended!
Aeromaster acrylics
Pollyscale acrylics
Vallejo - not a huge fan of them but I hardly use them
Akan acrylics - fantastic colors from Linden Hill Company
Revell acrylics -I have one tin of their color. Great paint with good coverage.
Gunze/Mr. Color acrylics - another highly recommended line.

As you can see, most of my paints are acrylics. Enamels are slowly going away (Model Master line are gone in both acrylics and enamels) white the exception of Testors square bottles basic color line.

Keep in mind, not all acrylics are alike. You just need to experiment with the paint to thinner ratio and find what works. I use mostly lacquer thinner to thin most of my paints except a few brands. Some acrylics don’t play nice with lacquer thinner. If in doubt, use the paint brand thinner when using acrylics.
 

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