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I see that you don't agree with me - that's too bad because I DO know a little more than you do about paints and their solvents. I went to school for this as I used to be an industrial painter. I had to be certified in HAZMAT, ISO 9000, First-Aid, CPR, and know both paints and their formulations as the solvents that they're made from. Acetone is an alcohol as it flashes off quickly as is dissolved easily in water. It's more stable than MEK which is (Methyl Ethyl Ketone). This is the main cutting ingredient in lacquer thinner. It WILL destroy the seals in your airbrush. Ispoprynol is also alcohol that is solvent based as opposed to wood bore alcohol which is what Ispropyl alcohol is. There are two atoms to most paints that make up the base itself. However there is a more complex chemistry to their solvents than most people realize.

I only spray things that are made to be looked at with a light coat - meaning that if it needs a smooth finish I thin it if it needs to be perfectly flat. Gloss paints on the other hand I wet-sand and butt out. I trust my experience over hype means that everyone trusts manufacturers' words over what is true about their product. They insist that you use theirs only. This is so that they can make more money selling to the few that still buy them. They are trying to encourage you and at the same time persuade you to buy THEIR BRAND when another brand or alternative chemical will do the same job - in this case denatured alcohol work great with acrylics. I know this because I'VE DONE IT.

Also Rust-O-Leum brand paint DOES stop spraying after a while - I have a few cans that I can send you if you don't believe me. Most of them stopped after a couple times spraying. I've had them do this right away, or after a week or two or even a month or even after a year! I have other brands of paint that I have had FIVE or more years that still spray the same as when I bought them. What you mainly smell with acrylics is the isopropynal and isobutane while spraying. The acrylic you can smell too along with xylene or xylol which have alcohol properties (chemically hot to the touch when absorbed through the skin) and are the main ingredients which help the paint to flow and have to de-gas when drying. This is why you don't want to get it on your skin. Although the pigment may not absorb the chemicals that are the binders (base) will.

I wouldn't make this up or lie to you - what's the point? I don't work for any paint manufacturers or subsidiary industries. I have no vested interest in doing so here or anywhere else. I simply don't want anyone to think that they need to buy a brand name just because it's also on the label of the paint or glue that you bought. You don't buy Tamiya brand glue only - do you? Any superglue will suffice. It's the chemical formulation in the products that you use - not the name on the label that make them useful. Do you know what OIL OF MUSTARD is? How about TULOL or TOLUENE? This is what regular model glue is. No one uses it now - or at least no one that I know but superglue has now become the norm for most modelers and no one has died from it yet.

<blockquote data-quote="Little Cutie" data-source="post: 210675" data-attributes="member: 222">I see that you don&#039;t agree with me - that&#039;s too bad because I DO know a little more than you do about paints and their solvents. I went to school for this as I used to be an industrial painter. I had to be certified in HAZMAT, ISO 9000, First-Aid, CPR, and know both paints and their formulations as the solvents that they&#039;re made from. Acetone is an alcohol as it flashes off quickly as is dissolved easily in water. It&#039;s more stable than MEK which is (Methyl Ethyl Ketone).&nbsp; This is the main cutting ingredient in lacquer thinner.&nbsp; It WILL destroy the seals in your airbrush. Ispoprynol is also alcohol that is solvent based as opposed to wood bore alcohol which is what Ispropyl alcohol is.&nbsp; There are two atoms to most paints that make up the base itself. However there is a more complex chemistry to their solvents than most people realize. I only spray things that are made to be looked at with a light coat - meaning that if it needs a smooth finish I thin it if it needs to be perfectly flat. Gloss paints on the other hand I wet-sand and butt out.&nbsp; I trust my experience over hype means that everyone trusts manufacturers&#039; words over what is true about their product. They insist that you use theirs only. This is so that they can make more money selling to the few that still buy them.&nbsp; They are trying to encourage you and at the same time persuade you to buy THEIR BRAND when another brand or alternative chemical will do the same job - in this case denatured alcohol work great with acrylics.&nbsp; I know this because I&#039;VE DONE IT. Also Rust-O-Leum brand paint DOES stop spraying after a while - I have a few cans that I can send you if you don&#039;t believe me. Most of them stopped after a couple times spraying.&nbsp; I&#039;ve had them do this right away, or after a week or two or even a month or even after a year! I have other brands of paint that I have had FIVE or more years that still spray the same as when I bought them. What you mainly smell with acrylics is the isopropynal and isobutane while spraying. The acrylic you can smell too along with xylene or xylol which have alcohol properties (chemically hot to the touch when absorbed through the skin) and are the main ingredients which help the paint to flow and have to de-gas when drying.&nbsp; This is why you don&#039;t want to get it on your skin. Although the pigment may not absorb the chemicals that are the binders (base) will.&nbsp; I wouldn&#039;t make this up or lie to you - what&#039;s the point? I don&#039;t work for any paint manufacturers or subsidiary industries.&nbsp; I have no vested interest in doing so here or anywhere else. I simply don&#039;t want anyone to think that they need to buy a brand name just because it&#039;s also on the label of the paint or glue that you bought. You don&#039;t buy Tamiya brand glue only - do you? Any superglue will suffice. It&#039;s the chemical formulation in the products that you use - not the name on the label that make them useful.&nbsp; Do you know what OIL OF MUSTARD is? How about TULOL or TOLUENE?&nbsp; This is what regular model glue is. No one uses it now - or at least no one that I know but superglue has now become the norm for most modelers and no one has died from it yet.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Little Cutie, post: 210675, member: 222"] I see that you don't agree with me - that's too bad because I DO know a little more than you do about paints and their solvents. I went to school for this as I used to be an industrial painter. I had to be certified in HAZMAT, ISO 9000, First-Aid, CPR, and know both paints and their formulations as the solvents that they're made from. Acetone is an alcohol as it flashes off quickly as is dissolved easily in water. It's more stable than MEK which is (Methyl Ethyl Ketone). This is the main cutting ingredient in lacquer thinner. It WILL destroy the seals in your airbrush. Ispoprynol is also alcohol that is solvent based as opposed to wood bore alcohol which is what Ispropyl alcohol is. There are two atoms to most paints that make up the base itself. However there is a more complex chemistry to their solvents than most people realize. I only spray things that are made to be looked at with a light coat - meaning that if it needs a smooth finish I thin it if it needs to be perfectly flat. Gloss paints on the other hand I wet-sand and butt out. I trust my experience over hype means that everyone trusts manufacturers' words over what is true about their product. They insist that you use theirs only. This is so that they can make more money selling to the few that still buy them. They are trying to encourage you and at the same time persuade you to buy THEIR BRAND when another brand or alternative chemical will do the same job - in this case denatured alcohol work great with acrylics. I know this because I'VE DONE IT. Also Rust-O-Leum brand paint DOES stop spraying after a while - I have a few cans that I can send you if you don't believe me. Most of them stopped after a couple times spraying. I've had them do this right away, or after a week or two or even a month or even after a year! I have other brands of paint that I have had FIVE or more years that still spray the same as when I bought them. What you mainly smell with acrylics is the isopropynal and isobutane while spraying. The acrylic you can smell too along with xylene or xylol which have alcohol properties (chemically hot to the touch when absorbed through the skin) and are the main ingredients which help the paint to flow and have to de-gas when drying. This is why you don't want to get it on your skin. Although the pigment may not absorb the chemicals that are the binders (base) will. I wouldn't make this up or lie to you - what's the point? I don't work for any paint manufacturers or subsidiary industries. I have no vested interest in doing so here or anywhere else. I simply don't want anyone to think that they need to buy a brand name just because it's also on the label of the paint or glue that you bought. You don't buy Tamiya brand glue only - do you? Any superglue will suffice. It's the chemical formulation in the products that you use - not the name on the label that make them useful. Do you know what OIL OF MUSTARD is? How about TULOL or TOLUENE? This is what regular model glue is. No one uses it now - or at least no one that I know but superglue has now become the norm for most modelers and no one has died from it yet. [/QUOTE]

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