A little help spraying acrylics?

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May 19, 2011
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HI all, normally I spray lacquers like Mr. Hobby and I am really happy with the results. I haven't been able to paint a model in almost a year and I am trying to use Tamiya acrylics and i am so disappointed in the results. I must be doing something wrong. It seems like no matter what I do the paint doesn't seem to want to "atomize"(is that even right?). In other words I can get Mr. hobby to spray really fine, but this comes out in much larger particles, and as a result if I spray a base layer, then try to highlight with a lighter version of the color it looks awful. Does that make sense? I use a iwata hp-ch. Iwata compressor with a water trap. Pressure between 15-20. I did move to the south last year. Could it be humidity? I spray out in the garage so it isn't exactly climate controlled lol. I have used both Tamiya brand thinner and I read that I can eve use lacquer thinner, tried that, still the paint doesn't atomize like i want it to. any help would be tremendously appreciated. Like i said i have been out of the game for a bit and maybe am just rusty, but I don't think I have ever had this issue before now that I can recall.
 
Atomization is the proper term .
Temperature and humidity will definitely have an effect on airbrushing .

I'm not too sure I understand exactly what you're describing but using a smaller tip size and probably corresponding higher air pressure might correct your problem .
What tip size are you currently using ?
 
the needle is .3mm if that's what your asking. maybe a different way to ask is does acrylic paint atomize the same as lacquer? its hard to describe other than it seems like when i spray lacquers its incredibly fine, but when trying to highlight areas with acrylic Tamiya its nowhere near as fine a spray, each paint particle is larger, so when painted on the model as a highlight it looks way out of scale
 
Can you post some photos ?

Sounds like you are describing the difference between high paint flow and low paint flow out of the nozzle .
I don't understand how paint can be out of scale .
 
The greenish one was painted with lacquers, where i sprayed a dark brown base and then green on top of it, the darker grey was sprayed with a dark grey acrylic and then i tried airbrushing a light layer on top and it did this.
 

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so im trying t achieve a finer blended result, and its coming out like this, multiple times on different colors. It must be something im doing but have no clue lol
 
With a .3 tip/needle you need to be much closer to the work .
How far away are you spraying ?

From the photo the surface just looks to me to be partially painted .
If I'm seeing this right you need to spray closer and probably slower movement across the work .
Either that or go up in tip size so you can move farther out with a wider spray pattern .
 
Looks like it isn’t thinned enough and sprayed too far from the subject. Also a flow improver and/or retarder can help, and at the same time mitigate tip dry which could also be a factor in your results. For acrylics Dr. Strangebrush recommends a homemade thinner mix of 90% thinner, 5% Liquitex Flow-Aide and 5% Liquitex Slo-Dri Fluid Additive (not the Medium) which you will THEN mix with your paint as normal thinner. In my case I spray Vallejo Model Air at a ratio of 7:3 paint/thinner.

https://modelpaintsol.com/guides/liquitex-flow-and-slow-the-tools-for-taming-acrylic-paints
 
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Looks like it isn’t thinned enough and sprayed too far from the subject. Also a flow improver and/or retarder can help, and at the same time mitigate tip dry which could also be a factor in your results. For acrylics Dr. Strangebrush recommends a homemade thinner mix of 90% thinner, 5% Liquitex Flow-Aide and 5% Liquitex Slo-Dri Fluid Additive (not the Medium) which you will THEN mix with your paint as normal thinner. In my case I spray Vallejo Model Air at a ratio of 7:3 paint/thinner.

https://modelpaintsol.com/guides/liquitex-flow-and-slow-the-tools-for-taming-acrylic-paints
Hi and welcome CFster.
Pantherman
 
I agree with the possibility the paint isn’t thinned down enough. Spraying too far is another reason as well. The paint should look like skim milk for airbrushing. I never use flow improver or retarder using Tamiya acrylics or any paint brands. I don’t feel there’s a need for them and they’re a waste of money
My go-to thinner is lacquer thinner for 90% of paint since I have so many brands in my stash.

I have:

Model Master enamels and acrylics
Gunze/Mr.Color
Tamiya acrylics and lacquers
Mission Models
AK Interactive Real Color
PollyScale ( Windex or water is my thinner)
Humbrol enamels
LifeColor
Aeromaster acrylics
Vallejo Model Color And Model Air - Vallejo Model Air does not need to be thinned. Pour directly into cup and spray.
Gravity Colors
MCW Finishes

CFster....

Brewed thinners are not bulletproof or foolproof because each paint brand reacts differently. Over time, you will eventually try different new paint brands and find out there’s no longer a need to brew your own. But hey... if it works, good on you.

Aside from my go-to lacquer thinner, I still use Testors thinner, Gunze/Mr. Color thinner, Tamiya thinner. It’s rare I’ll use Windex on certain acrylic brands.
 
I agree with the possibility the paint isn’t thinned down enough. Spraying too far is another reason as well. The paint should look like skim milk for airbrushing. I never use flow improver or retarder using Tamiya acrylics or any paint brands. I don’t feel there’s a need for them and they’re a waste of money
My go-to thinner is lacquer thinner for 90% of paint since I have so many brands in my stash.

I have:

Model Master enamels and acrylics
Gunze/Mr.Color
Tamiya acrylics and lacquers
Mission Models
AK Interactive Real Color
PollyScale ( Windex or water is my thinner)
Humbrol enamels
LifeColor
Aeromaster acrylics
Vallejo Model Color And Model Air - Vallejo Model Air does not need to be thinned. Pour directly into cup and spray.
Gravity Colors
MCW Finishes

CFster....

Brewed thinners are not bulletproof or foolproof because each paint brand reacts differently. Over time, you will eventually try different new paint brands and find out there’s no longer a need to brew your own. But hey... if it works, good on you.

Aside from my go-to lacquer thinner, I still use Testors thinner, Gunze/Mr. Color thinner, Tamiya thinner. It’s rare I’ll use Windex on certain acrylic brands.

Hey whatever works for you man. In MY experience Model Air absolutely needs to be thinned despite what Vallejo says, some colors more than others, especially if I’m doing detail work at low pressure. Also flow improver mitigates tip dry especially in the winter where I’m at as it’s very low humidity.
 
in the end i think it wasnt thinned enough/ also i think i had water in my hose. after fumbling for a couple of days it seemed to start working just fine. So strange but i guess after the move and switching to painting in the spare garage bay i have to adapt to new circumstances. thanks everone for your input and help!
 

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