This fig is gonna top off the scenerio just plum slickin good and wez gonna have a "hootin ditty" of a grand time makin er happen. Sorry my English is primitive, just goin red neck on yall, HA!
Make it, "FIVE" 200mm figures in this dio. Yall may be thinkin.......... "Ski done gone crays", but it's just a hoot plannin and workin this "pig" of a dio. I'll keep yall posted. Thx for watchin Gents!
P.S. This is gonna be a "hoot" paintin the shadows and highlights, ya buddy!
This is an impressive kit yall already know about, but I just wanted to let yall know I'm workin it now. So, here's a few pics of what will be figure number Five on this beast of a dio. Sorry if the pics are a bit blurry, but this has been a lot of fun workin it, great kit.
There's still plenty to blend and the pics may be a bit shinny, just got em fresh off the press, but tomorrow I'll be back at it. Honest cretiques please. Yall know I ain't afraid to fix a boof, never have. So, call it as ya see it, Please!
P.S. Yall know I'm an oiler by trade, but yall also know they can be a bugger at times because that sheen can jack ya up a bit while painting. Still, I personally can't beat the blending properties myself. Just my humble opinion; "Oilers Rock!"
Sorry for the delay Gents, been busy oiling up the canvas, lol.
This is gonna be a bit long winded, but thereâ€™s plenty out there who may wish to know how we work this Sport, sniffin paint and gluin our fingers together, HA, Youza Baby!
Ok, yall give an honest opinion please Gents. Yall know I ainâ€™t afraid to fix a boof, so let er rip.
Since oils always carry a high gloss sheen for several days it can be difficult to access your work, especially the small subtleties in the shadows and highlights. To overcome this affect Iâ€™ve been holding the figure at odd angles in low light to make sure I wasnâ€™t missing the essentials, ya right, not as easy as I sounds, lol! It can really tax your patience, which is why my wife always has a look see too. Sheâ€™s a keeper!
At any rate, it can be done, but the beauty I find in oils is when I do find the boofs I can go back days later and feather in as needed and still blend out any rough edges. Let me explain;
After an initial acrylic base coat I apply a thin layer of oils within the desired tone, usually right on the money, exact match to the acrylic base. Then I apply the tonal shadows and highlights, with minor swipes where needed, then step back for 15-20 minutes, then I start the blending process.
During the blending process I try to eliminate any hard edges or brush marks in the process. Once I am satisfied I will go back the next day and rehash what has been done prior to ensure I have covered all the areas, (cracks, crevasses, creases) especially under the arms, or heavy shadow areas, so as to create the illusion of depth. It ainâ€™t perfect, but it works if you stay consistent in your efforts. Trial an error ma Brothas, trial and error is the learning curve. Highlights are especially critical when ensuring no over exaggeration.
It was difficult to resist painting the blouse first on this figure since the creases and folds show so well the common wear of daily use. â€œI havenâ€™t seen a figure with such well expressed detail as this one in a long timeâ€, very well done and Kudos to Steve from Ree Deeâ€™s Miniatures.
My next effort will be to redo the carrier pouch on the right hip, then paint the flesh tones. I usually always paint the flesh first, but as stated above, this figure was so dang tempting; I had to get after that body. The detail is that impressive that I threw out the sequential book of â€œRucked Over Babyâ€, Oils Rock! Sorry, couldnâ€™t let that slide any longer.
In a few days Iâ€™ll give the top section a â€œDull Coatâ€ to seal it from damage that may occur later on. I can always go back and feather in any fixes, the sheen will be completely gone giving me complete control of the finishing process when the time comes.
Ok, Iâ€™ve rattle on way too long, but I wanted yall to know the process that has be implemented to date. Iâ€™m all about passing on the fruits of my labor.
All yall gotta know is that this has been a really fun kit to work, and since the snow is flyin, Iâ€™m sniffin paint and gluin my fingers together. What can be more fun that that, football? Give me a break. â€œRuckOver Baby!â€ Everyone knows Football is for wimps!
Thx for watchin Bros and all comments welcome. Cheers, Ski.
P.S. The Eagle chest patch is a photo reduced, printed an glued in place. Yall really didnâ€™t think I was going to try to paint that,.......did ya?????????? HA!
P.S.S. Seattle Sea Hawks are kickin Hinny, BTW. Yehaaaaaaaaaaaaâ€¦.left coast dogs, go figure!
I've been working the trouser and details, but wanted to give a brief update. My main concern right now is making sure all the little items are covered before I make a punch list for final work over. Then, after all the figures are done Iâ€™ll weather where needed once the base is done and ready for these huge buggers.
As you can see from the first few pics I need to bring the flesh tones on the hands in line with the head. After mulling over new recipes and methods Iâ€™ve decided to stick with what works and make slight alterations and improvements. Iâ€™m always learning in this Sport.
The highlights are being dialed down a bit to a more appropriate flesh tone and some reddish â€œfeatheringsâ€ will be added once the work is sealed so as not to disturb the base work. The head still has work to be done, but we are really close to the finish on it.
I usually will thin the oils to an almost acrylic like consistency, but its way more fluid and wonâ€™t dry nearly as fast as those acrylics. That process is where I usually end up doing all my fine tuning and feathering on any abrupt or rough tonal edges.
Lastly, the coat is still shiny, but you can see the trousers are basically dialed in for the most part. Iâ€™ll adjust as I go along before I put this rider in the curio cabinet out of the way in safety, then its off to the next figure.
Please holler if you see anything I may have missed or needs attention and thx for watching.
Ok, after some frustrating hours of messing with the finish, the rider has been spared the "thrashing" floor, but we still have a sheen that must go.
Honest critiques on the helmet color, if you would please, Gentlemen. I'm thinking a redo, a bit off the traditional Field Grey, but still within the parameters. I looked over many color pics on-line, this is pretty close. But, yall be the judge, I'll redo if the consensus is in the majority.
The head is not fixed in place, still minor details to tend to, but I'm going to shelve the rider for now and get started on the "Ranger" figure in this massive dio.
All comments welcome and thx for watchin. Cheers, Ski.
Please excuse some of the blur in a few of the pics, still learning this camera.
Been busy, but got back in the bunker for more paint sniffin and havin fun.
Here's a few pics of the progress on the Ranger to date. Still plenty to do, but we are pluggin along and making er happen, plus I just got 8 new WWII flicks for the bunker. This weekend will be paint sniff a Bonanza, HA!
Sorry for the grainy pics, my cam has been tickin me off lately, or maybe it's just me, lol.
I did a bit more work on the Ranger, stripe and "Ranger" tag.
Peli Rojo, Red Head. I also worked on the 5 O'clock shadow, kept it subtle, and worked the helmet strap and liner strap. Should be able to move on to the hands and get the Thompson painted this week. I added a rear sight and redid the front sight and barrel tip. They were way too Bozo lookin for my taste.
I added the number 2 to the helmet using a fine point marker.
So far so good and rollin along nicely as far as I can tell. All comments welcome and thx for watchin.
Out of interest: Whats the base color for the skin? Im planning to do a large figure soon (1/10) and Im struggling. Testors "Earth" is meant to be quite good, but Im not sure about it. It works well for 1/35, but here its another scale of course.
Thx Ken, I'm havin loads of fun on this baby, trying to change up the tones to make them more noticeable.
Hey Tig, my base coat is Tamiya Dark Yellow for this particular figure, but I recently changed to Buff or Deck Tan to give a lighter base for the oils. It appears that the Dark yellow actually gives a false base tone, too dark, and requires way too much tonal variations for a natural look compared to the Buff or Deck Tan.
My German rider got one of the lighter base coats (have to go back and look to be sure which one) and the flesh tones appear more natural. I'm still working out the kinks, but that's where I'm at right now. Hope that wasn't too long of an answer. You can scroll up or back page this thread to see the flesh tone differences, they are rather noticeable to me now.