101st AIRBORNE AT CARENTAN, JUNE 1944

Steve Ski

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Joined
Oct 9, 2012
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431
120mm Figures Sculpted by Maurice Corry, offered by Mitches Military Models.

Back in the warm waters of Olive Drab and Khaki tones, after the "Battle of the Tartans", I pulled from my stash a really great couple of figures that have been itching to be worked. Initially there would have been a total of eight figures in this dio, but I scaled it back for lack of space when completed. My curio cabinet is getting full.

In this build there will be four 120 mm, Maurice Corry figures and a Freedom Model Kits 1/16th​ German Sd.kfz.2 Kettenkraftrad Typ HK 101. Starting off with some really great poses from Maurice Corry's Airborne figure sets I couldn't pass up this pair representing the iconic photo of the 101st​ AB in Normandy holding the Nazi flag. There are two represented from that famous photo and two others, A GI holding a German prisoner at bayonet point.

The initial set from that iconic photo doesn't appear to be available anymore, but the second set is still shown on the second page as available, 120mm Us Airborne Private with German POW.
https://www.mitchesmilitarymodels.co.uk/120mm-models?page=2

The Freedom Model Kits 1/16th​ German Sd.kfz.2 Kettenkraftrad Typ HK 101 is still available and is reasonably priced for this kit, IHMO. It even comes with a driver, not bad.

Now I know some of you are going to mention that 120mm and 1/16th​ scales don't mix. True, but it's all in the presentation, right? So, I will work with a little optical illusion when placing that Sd.kfz.2. I haven't quite figured out the scenario just yet, but there will be some small structure and lots of rubble within the scene. Point being, I need to keep my figure work going and these figures were in the cue.

These four resin figures themselves have some really great usable poses which makes for so many possibilities in dio placement. Clean-up was pretty much as per usual, nothing too far out of the ordinary, the casting was good. I did have to make a few minor alterations, some of the parts weren't fitting as well as they should have, but nothing drastic.

The rifle straps were made from sheet pewter and some copper wire for the lugs, and a few other parts. I also made a pair of glasses for the GI with the flag. They appear a bit on the thick side, so I may scour for a bit thinner wire, but that will be towards the end of the build. Lastly, the figures were given a primer coat of Floquil Primer, oil based, to help identify any areas missed and prep for the base tone color application.

Freedom Model Kits 1/16th​ German Sd.kfz.2 Kettenkraftrad Typ HK 101 is now in production and is available from several vendors. This is a decent kit so far and it appears to be going together nicely. This blog will not feature the Sd.kfz.2 build, per se, but is mainly about the Airborne figures and painting them. I will update the progress, but not with any SBS on this rig.

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More to follow soon, the Sd has to be done before the figure work begins at full speed. Thanks for watching.


Cheers, Ski.
 
Loo, Kybo, Camode, Privy

Or is it just an outhouse? There are many names for taking care of business, but I'm calling this an "outhouse". This little insignificant addition should bring the scenario to life and help tell the story. A very simple build using ½"x1/16" strips of pine milled on the band saw, plus a few other square strips of various dimensions. The hardware was made form sheet copper with copper wire for hinge pins and sewing pins were cut to size for attachment bolts. This took only a few days to knock out and was a nice diversion.

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I made the potty bucket from sheet pewter and copper wire. Just a simple design since it won't be seen up close.

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After the structure was complete, I gave the entire build a wash of Burnt Sienna with a touch of Cadmium Orange oils. I coated all over, inside and out, to make sure the base tone was visible throughout. Next began the sun beat worn effect using Burnt Umber and Raw Sienna with Mig's pigments, white or light tones only. Several Burnt Umber tinted washes were applied to slowly bring out a sun beat dusty appearance.

I had never done wood weathering with pigments in the past and found this method very simple with great results. It will now be a standard for my tool box of techniques.

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Since this outhouse is intended to appear well used and having been in service for some time, I had to beat it up just a little, but not too much. I also wanted to bring out the weathering often found in wetter climates such as areas in Northern France. I tried to not overdo it, but I think this will work out just fine. Mig's Slimy Grime Light and Dark came in handy for the subtle mold and mossing effects.

No outhouse would be complete without a few newspapers inside, not only for reading material, but for taking care of business. Reading material was printed from photos of WWII French newspapers found on line.

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Once the outhouse is attached to the base, I will add boot prints and a bit more dusting, but for now, it will be set aside awaiting final installation.


Thanks for watchin. Cheers, Ski.
 
Loo, Kybo, Camode, Privy

Or is it just an outhouse? There are many names for taking care of business, but I'm calling this an "outhouse". This little insignificant addition should bring the scenario to life and help tell the story. A very simple build using ½"x1/16" strips of pine milled on the band saw, plus a few other square strips of various dimensions. The hardware was made form sheet copper with copper wire for hinge pins and sewing pins were cut to size for attachment bolts. This took only a few days to knock out and was a nice diversion.

View attachment 95832 View attachment 95833 View attachment 95834

I made the potty bucket from sheet pewter and copper wire. Just a simple design since it won't be seen up close.

View attachment 95835 View attachment 95836 View attachment 95837

After the structure was complete, I gave the entire build a wash of Burnt Sienna with a touch of Cadmium Orange oils. I coated all over, inside and out, to make sure the base tone was visible throughout. Next began the sun beat worn effect using Burnt Umber and Raw Sienna with Mig's pigments, white or light tones only. Several Burnt Umber tinted washes were applied to slowly bring out a sun beat dusty appearance.

I had never done wood weathering with pigments in the past and found this method very simple with great results. It will now be a standard for my tool box of techniques.

View attachment 95838 View attachment 95839 View attachment 95840 View attachment 95841

Since this outhouse is intended to appear well used and having been in service for some time, I had to beat it up just a little, but not too much. I also wanted to bring out the weathering often found in wetter climates such as areas in Northern France. I tried to not overdo it, but I think this will work out just fine. Mig's Slimy Grime Light and Dark came in handy for the subtle mold and mossing effects.

No outhouse would be complete without a few newspapers inside, not only for reading material, but for taking care of business. Reading material was printed from photos of WWII French newspapers found on line.

View attachment 95842 View attachment 95843

Once the outhouse is attached to the base, I will add boot prints and a bit more dusting, but for now, it will be set aside awaiting final installation.


Thanks for watchin. Cheers, Ski.
That's some great work, loving it.
Pantherman
 
Well, as per Urumomo's suggestion, we now have nail heads across the boards, complete with a bit of rust streaking, and we may even find a toilet seat as well.

This was made in a rather quick fashion, not completely thought out, but thanks for the tips, Gents!
 
OPR, Oil Paint Rendering

This trac-bike has been on the bench for a few weeks now getting a work over. I won't go into too much detail on this portion of the dio, but just a minor update on progress. The real issue with this kit is the forks and the tracks, they are weak, IMHO. No worries, the worst is past, now the fun part, painting and weathering.

Using Mike Rinaldi's "Tank Art" book series I am stepping away from the traditional weathering approach and trying something new, or at least to me it is. Oil Paint Rendering, or OPR for short, which is very thoroughly explained in book #4, German Armor. The SBS sequence is located at the end of chapter in each book for quick reference making for a pretty slick arrangement of the steps to follow.

Being an oiler at figure painting already, this OPR method is right up my alley. This really is a simple process, but it just takes a bit of practice, like everything else in this "Sport".

I picked up the first four books a few years back, so now I'm ready to give it a go and see if I can incorporate this OPR method to its fullest. Kudos to Mike for such a well written and illustrated set of what I would consider essential volumes for armor geeks. Mike's books can be found here: https://www.rinaldistudiopress.com/

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Off we go,……….. This current camo pattern is not exactly accurate, but close enough for my purposes. My airbrush talents are lacking, so a true hand sprayed on pattern would have been a dismal disaster. I'll run with this one and carry on. I did use elastic masking putty from AK Interactive. This stuff is great, my first time using it, but it's rather tricky in tight spaces or on delicate details, so be aware of that if you've never used it. I also used the hairspray method for the chipping sequence. I still have a long way to go to feel comfortable with this method, but the possibilities are incredible. The biggest issue being "less is more" when it comes to chipping. It's too easy to get carried away with the process and trash all that prior work only to end up with a redo.

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So, as you can see there has been appreciable progress, but's it's slow going, especially learning a new technique and not wanting to jack it up, lol. I will use some pigments for mud work, but not much. I want to blend and fade using the oils and get the rust and dirt streaks down correctly. I'll post the end results when it's finished, but remember, I'm working to get to the AB figures, this is just a necessary next step to reach that goal.


Thanks for watchin. Cheers, Ski.
 
OPR, Oil Paint Rendering

This trac-bike has been on the bench for a few weeks now getting a work over. I won't go into too much detail on this portion of the dio, but just a minor update on progress. The real issue with this kit is the forks and the tracks, they are weak, IMHO. No worries, the worst is past, now the fun part, painting and weathering.

Using Mike Rinaldi's "Tank Art" book series I am stepping away from the traditional weathering approach and trying something new, or at least to me it is. Oil Paint Rendering, or OPR for short, which is very thoroughly explained in book #4, German Armor. The SBS sequence is located at the end of chapter in each book for quick reference making for a pretty slick arrangement of the steps to follow.

Being an oiler at figure painting already, this OPR method is right up my alley. This really is a simple process, but it just takes a bit of practice, like everything else in this "Sport".

I picked up the first four books a few years back, so now I'm ready to give it a go and see if I can incorporate this OPR method to its fullest. Kudos to Mike for such a well written and illustrated set of what I would consider essential volumes for armor geeks. Mike's books can be found here: https://www.rinaldistudiopress.com/

View attachment 96264

Off we go,……….. This current camo pattern is not exactly accurate, but close enough for my purposes. My airbrush talents are lacking, so a true hand sprayed on pattern would have been a dismal disaster. I'll run with this one and carry on. I did use elastic masking putty from AK Interactive. This stuff is great, my first time using it, but it's rather tricky in tight spaces or on delicate details, so be aware of that if you've never used it. I also used the hairspray method for the chipping sequence. I still have a long way to go to feel comfortable with this method, but the possibilities are incredible. The biggest issue being "less is more" when it comes to chipping. It's too easy to get carried away with the process and trash all that prior work only to end up with a redo.

View attachment 96265

View attachment 96266

So, as you can see there has been appreciable progress, but's it's slow going, especially learning a new technique and not wanting to jack it up, lol. I will use some pigments for mud work, but not much. I want to blend and fade using the oils and get the rust and dirt streaks down correctly. I'll post the end results when it's finished, but remember, I'm working to get to the AB figures, this is just a necessary next step to reach that goal.


Thanks for watchin. Cheers, Ski.
It's looking great so far, can't wait for the finished build.
Pantherman
 
Great work so far Steve. Really looking forward to the finished project.

Phil
 
Trackin it Now!

The Trak-bike has been completed, finally. Ok, for the technically inclined, it's really a German Sd.kfz.2 Kettenkraftrad Typ HK 101. That's a mouthful, so it shall henceforth be referred to as a "Trak-bike" for purposes of this article.

Note: As mentioned before, these tracks for this kit are pathetic and have a real tendency to break at the most inopportune time, while being installed. I painted, weathered, and left the sprockets uninstalled, so I could install the tracks over the sprockets, place the back end of the link over the rear running wheel, and carefully slip the sprocket into place. HA, ya right, they still broke. I had to "pin" each side in at least one link to keep these buggers from coming apart during installation. The design team gets a "swift kick in the pants" for that brain dead maneuver, IMHO! Ok, onward.

After using Mike Rinaldi's "Oil Paint Rendering", or OPR, I was decently happy with the results. This was, after all, my first attempt at weathering a vehicle using oils only,………..well almost. I did use Mig's pigments to add a bit of mud crusty above the running gear and I also used a mix of pigments to form a Euro-earth tone and added thinner to splatter a bit on the rig lower sections. All in all, I do like the OPR method and will be using this quite a bit from here on out. Like I said before, I'm an oiler anyway, so what's the big deal, right?

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As you can see from the photos, I added some foliage using MiniNatur Plant tree foliage from Germany, to add interest and help support the story line. This stuff is great and I now need to replenish my stock, it's very handy. I also made a few crates and some rope for the back end of the trak-bike as well as a cover tarp that has been drawn over by some of our characters. More on that later.

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It might seem a bit odd having that MP40 sitting on the driver's seat, but that will become obvious later, HA! I'm really not going to give up the story line just yet, but I'm sure there a few that have already figured this out.

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Now that this trak-bike has been finished it will sit safely in the curio cabinet until the final dio placement. Next up, changing gears and painting faces, Yehaaaa!

Thanks for watchin. Cheers, Ski.
 
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Nice job on the believable weathering Ski !
I like the slowly dying camo branches and oil and petrol stains (thumbsup)
Cheers
 
Let's Face It, again,…….

Finally, I'm back to painting the faces, my favorite part, because I have so much to learn. So much so that I've already given #4 a wash down at least three times. As some of you may remember, this happens pretty much every time I get back to painting faces. I recon a more analytical approach might help my process. The fact that I was rushing the process might have something to do with it, too. That was a Bozo No-no. So, I let go and let it happen, so far so good.

Here's the line-up, but as you can see the fella in the back left has some serious eye issues that will need to be addressed before he gets a brush put to him. I was not impressed with this goofy overexaggerated face, but I'll work with it as best as I can. A little scraping and putty work should bring him in line with the rest.

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There is still quite a bit of work to be done to #4, but the basic tones are on and now some of the detail will be worked as soon as I get a hard dry on the oils. #3 has a very basic oil placement on him now, but he's a long way behind #4.

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Now that I'm happy with the eyes and the basic overall color tones I will work in the more defined shadows and highlights. I like to snap a few pics and scrutinize the faces on the computer where I can see just how they will appear once posted online. I already see areas of concern and they will be addressed soon enough.

I will also be using some of Mike-the-Kiwi's techniques from his recently released book. The facial textures are what I'd like to learn and there's no better time than the present. Also, I recently heard an interview from Mental Dental, David Lane, so I will work on some oil feathering as well. If I jack it up, I'll break out the oven cleaner and Ruck Onward, what else am I gonna do, right?

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You may have noticed the skin tone on #4 is much lighter than #3, but that will change to a more compatible appearance. Not everybody is going to look the same anyway, but I don't want #4 looking sickly, if ya know what I mean. I was able to knock out #3 much quicker, within an hour or so. See, once back in the groove things move much more smoothly, or kinda sorta?


Thanks for watching. Cheers, Ski.
 

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