Reply to thread

So I've been staring at this for a few weeks now, the top gray and the underside grays were WAY too close to each other. I decided to try and save it but redoing the upper gray in a different color right from the bottle. It came out much lighter than the cap and lable indicated, "XF-54 Dark Sea Gray" should have been the correct color, but it was even lighter than what I showed above. So now I had the contrasting grays right, but juxtaposed with the light on top and dark underneath.


That dog won't hunt!


[ATTACH=full]118463[/ATTACH]


Only option at this point was to nuke it.


[ATTACH=full]118464[/ATTACH]


I thought that cotton swaps with isopropyl would pull the Tamiya gray right off. IT DID! The Mr. Color green was 2 to 4 times more resistant to the solvent but it was affected enough that I had to take it off too. Due to the vigor needed to remove that acrylic that is not water soluble also impacted my enamel highlights and primer/finisher.


The worst part was that my attempt to protect the underside were in vain considering the carnage I was causing up top.

[ATTACH=full]118465[/ATTACH]


That is probably for the best since the underside gray is too dark. So I stipped it too! I was concerned there'd be marks left on the surface when I was at this stage.


[ATTACH=full]118466[/ATTACH]


But two think coats of surfacer seem to have laid smooth after all. So now I get to start over. I do not think I'll use sticky-tack again. Considering a frisket mask, maybe even paper. Not sure how to get slightly blurred edges in 1/48 scale.


[ATTACH=full]118467[/ATTACH]


I am seriously considering using my enamels too, I can control the color shifts better, and my selection of colors is far greater. Thinking of these three...

[ATTACH=full]118468[/ATTACH]


Bad glare on the glass there, try this...

[ATTACH=full]118469[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=full]118483[/ATTACH]

I'm gonna hold of until tomorrow and think about it more, making decisions in haste has bitten me enough.


Back
Top