1/48 HAsegawa CF-18, 439 Sqn "Tigermeet" markings.

Carsenault

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Hi All, back at it. I decided to go back to my comfort zone for a bit and build an F/A-18 Hornet, I have built a number of these over the years in several scales, all but one of them were done in Canadian Markings and this one is no exception. the kit is the Hasegawa 1/48 F/A-18C which I will backdate to a CF-188A . This will be my 4th Hasy 1/48 Hornet, very familiar with it so its almost like visitng an old friend.

What Id like to do whith this WIP is highlight all the trouble spots and share a few pointers on how to make a Canadian Hornet.

This kit have been around now for 20 years but in my opinion is still the best 1/48 Hornet kit on the market, and the second best overall after the 1/32 Academy F/A-18 family when you include the other scales. The kit is quite well detailed but not over engineered. It has about 225 parts molded in grey and clear styrene, sturdy white metal landing gear and a small fret of photoetched parts. The panel lines are finely recessed as is the rivet detail. All control surfaces are positionable, and the usual optional position canopy and landing gear. Like most Hasegawa modern jets, no weopons are included, only stores are external tanks and various targeting pods. This is by no means a shake and bake kit, with some careful building, this can be made into an exceptional model in the right hands.

Going over a few of the parts, Ill show you the tails first, On the left are the tails from this kit, on the right is the tails from an F/A-18B variant, notice the diffrerent arangement of the sensors on the upper tail. While not exactly the same, they are close enough to pass for one another if you remove the second sensor frm the top on the F/A-18C tails. Before I do that, I will check my spares box in case I saved the tails from the USN F/A-18A I had to scrap after a "Class A" moving mishap last year.

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Another thing to watch out for is if you need the ID spotlight or not. Many export Hornets have a spotlight mounted through the ammo loading door on the left side of the nose, as is the case with Canadian Hornets. Thing is, these are often removed and replaced with a grey or tan colored insert, so check your references to see if your particular Hornet had the spotlight or not. Mine doesn't have it and the decal sheet has a decal to represent the grey patch so I didnt have to open up the spotlight hole. If you do need it, there is a flashed over hole visible from the inside of the part, open it up and glue in the clear disk, then once that is dry, attach the clear spotlight housing behind that, then paint it chrome silver from the inside only. Be sure to mask off the clear lens on the outside before painting the fuselage.

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The left and right halves of the nose fit together pretty well, a light sanding on the seam is recommended being careful not to sand away the fine recessed panel lines like I almost did... ::) Be careful to line everthing up right so the detail at the flat end is preserved, that is the forward blukhead of the nose gear bay.

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Next I moved to the cockpit, not much done here yet, just a base coat of Vallejo dark sea grey in the tub and instrument panel. As you can see, some of the cockpit parts are shared by both single and dual seat kits. The instrument panel uses an optional photo etch part to represent the fuel guages. its at the bottom left of the panel. The older Hornets uses analog fuel guages, the newer ones have digital guages.

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I love how Hasy did the upper fuselage, the upper wings are molded in place so no highly noticeable ugly seams to fill. In fact, many of the seams fall on natural panel lines so if you are carefull building, not much filling will be required. The extra large cockpit opening will alllow both single and dual seat arangements depending on which kit you have. A few parts are placed into or over the opening for whichever variant you're building. The fit here is not as nice as it could be, a little sanding will fix that.

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Which markings are those?

This one?

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Thought you did one of those already! LOL Figure with that many decals on it, one would be enough!!

Just picked up the Wolfpack set to upgrade a Hassy CF-18 to the Op Mobile version. Now I just need the CF-18 kit to go with it! LOL
 
Elm City Hobbies said:
Which markings are those?

This one?

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Thought you did one of those already! LOL Figure with that many decals on it, one would be enough!!

Just picked up the Wolfpack set to upgrade a Hassy CF-18 to the Op Mobile version. Now I just need the CF-18 kit to go with it! LOL

Nope, your right, already did that one. This is the '92/93 scheme from when 439 Sqn were still based in Germany.

http://www.amv83.fr/Asm/Sig/canada/439sqnTiger/0754026.jpg

I didnt know WP did an update set, might have to see that out, Does it include the Sniper pod?
 
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CF-188A Hornet Update set for Hasegawa 1/48
AN/APX-111 IFF antennas & GPS antenna,
SJU-17/A Ejection seat for CF-188A in Operation Mobile,
AN/AAQ-33 SNIPER XT ATP with adaptor,
Fat ECM pylon & LAU-115/A Launcher for AIM-7,
Total 19 resin parts and decal
A5 color printing manual included

Unfortunately my supplier doesn't give me a dealer discount on this line...so I am buying it for basically the same as everyone else, but is nice to have!!
 
That Tiger scheme is pretty sick. I'm guessing you paint the orange then apply decals for the stripes? Man that looks sweet.
 
Glorfindel said:
That Tiger scheme is pretty sick. I'm guessing you paint the orange then apply decals for the stripes? Man that looks sweet.

That build was a few years ago, decals from Flight Decs. The paint was one of the most involved paint schemes I have ever done, Using mango, orange, red, black and grey for the outer surfaces, plus some tricky masking. The tiger stripes are decals.

Here is the end result...

TMOTAHornet025.jpg

And a link to my build gallery.

http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j230/carsenault_photos/TMOTA%20CF-188/
 
Myke said:
that is AWESOME! This is gonna be sweet!

See what you started Scott... ;D

Just a little clarification, I am not doing the orange/black/grey scheme again, once was enough. But I am doing its predessor...

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Using these decals

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Elm City Hobbies said:
Actually think I have that set here, but in 1/72

I used to have the 1/72 set as well, traded it off. If its the first issue there was a problem with the cariier film, it was really thick for some reason.
 
Whoa Nelly! That is absolutely striking. If Thurl Ravenscroft was still alive that most definitely would have been his ride.

I know, I know....obscure reference. Think Frosted Flakes. As in the voice of Tony the Tiger. Anyway this is going to be a great build and I can't wait to see it.
 
Carsenault said:
Here is the end result...

TMOTAHornet025.jpg

That is a thing of beauty my friend :) ,I dont normally go in for aircraft that doesnt have a prop stuck on the front ;D But that is beautiful ,great job on the decals too ,now Im looking forward to this one :)

Chris.
 
Time fer an update.

One of the more visible differences between the early Hornets and the F/A-18Cs and Ds is the arrangement of the RWR antenas on the tails. What many modelers wil do here is carefully shave off the middle lump and sand it smooth. Still not exactly the same but close enough in this scale. Why not just buy a CF-188 or F/A-18A or B? Well Hasegawa tends to release the Cs and Ds (Charlies and Deltas) more often than the earlier variants so there are many more on the market. The prices on them seem to match the laws of supply and demand as well. Recently, Hasy has released an F/A-18C kit as part of thier regular linup that has the sprues for both types of tails in the box. Hopefully I wont have to do this part of the conversion again.

RWR bump sanded away
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tail surface sanded smooth
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The White metal landing gear is a nice touch, but some cleanup is needed. Also its a good idea to staighten out the struts before painting them to avoid that cracked and chipped paint look. Then I start with the detail parts. The first detail parts to go on the main legs are the shock absorbers, Use parts K45 for a Canadian Hornet, the others (K46) are used mainly by the USN and USMC. They will need a bit of cleanup, and the locating holes on the upper part of the strut will need to be drilled out before the next part (K22) goes on. The nose gear is a bit more fiddly and there is an optional position part as well to complicate the assembly diagram. That part is the catapault bar which is only used by the USN and USMC. So choose option B here to position the bar in the locked up position. I usually leave the landing light off til final assembly. Sorry, I forgot to snap a few pics of the nose gear at this stage.



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A little trick I picked up a few years ago for painting the difficult to cover white parts on modern jets like the landing gear, gear bays, inner doors and intakes is to prime these with flat black paint, you can then more easily modulate the white by shooting successive light coats of gloss white. I was a little skeptic about this method til I tried it out, works great and adds the illusion of depth and shadow to the gear bays too. The first shot her show how well the white can cover the flat black, paints here are Tamiya thinned with rubbing alcohol and a few drops of FlowAid. The white will darken a bit as the paint dries, but with each fine coat, the color gets brighter and brighter. I only used 3 coats here, one more would have been ok.
The first pic here shows one coat of gloss white over the flat black (Tamiya Nato black), the second a little late inthe assembl after 3 coats of white.

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Ok, here's where I took a new leap of faith. With the 3 Hasegawa Hornets I've built in the past, I have never been happy with the fit of the parts at the rear of the fuselage. There are upper and lower fuselage sections, plus left and right side panels that go between them with little more than a few locating tabs and butt joints to help keep things together. I have always followed the instructions to the letter here and always, I have been let down with the fit, particularly where the sides meet the bottom. The instructions have the builder join the upper and lower fuselage first, then insert the sides, this makes it really difficult to work the seams to keep everything flush. What I did this time was to attach the sides to the lower fuselage first. I was able to gently work the seam to get everything lined up as flush as I could. Then I though why not go one step further and attach the intakes before adding the upper fuselage. These never ine up right and are nearly impossible to sand after the upper fuse is in place. This actually worked pretty well. After a little putty and a few minutes sanding, the intakes were smooth enough for me. Finally I attached the upper fuselage, progressively joining seams from the front to the back.

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The very worst mold seam I have ever seen was on the canopy glass of this kit. I am not kidding or exagerrating. There was a ridge of flash .3mm thick and about 3mm wide running up the middle of the glass.

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After 2 attempts of sanding with progressively finer grit sanding sticks and pads, I was finally able to remove the ridge line.

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I cleaned the canopy parts and dipped them in Future last night, right now you can only see the seam line if the light is just right, it will have to do. More pics soon.
 

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