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A small engineer's square with rubber bands or magnets ought to work. Once again, showing us what you are trying to join together will help inform an answer.

My Texas experience was that IPMS tended to be, as others have said, clean builds of outstanding quality, but very vanilla ice cream. For the real models, you needed to go to an AMPS show. There was a club in Austin of which I was a member, the Austin Armor Builders Society. Lots of Armour...

Nothing to be ashamed of there. That is a great collection of excellent models.

Pantherman; Sepia's I find give better results than black. As others have said, blacks can be quite stark, and dirt is the general colour, even with oil leaks and such they gum up with dirt and grit. Hope that helps. I know I got here late.

That's really nice mate. Well done.

If that's your first aircraft, you've pulled it off exceptionally well. Mine never looked that good. Which is why I gave them up. Almost...

As someone who suffers from the same issue, it does get better. My advice is: See your GP first, get a referral if need be See a specialist, who should get you to have it X-Rayed and get an Ultra-Sound Then you can work with the GP/Specialist and a physio to arrange exercises to resolve the...

I'm unsure as to the droid height. I 'feel' that it might be higher than I would have it. However, having said that. with the droid figure in white, it is hard to judge. In the image below R2-D2 doesn't seem to be as high as your droid figure. Not sure I've been a help though.

As I look at the posts, all the images are red x's. What am I doing wrong?

That's perfect. Great work.

They are all awesome! Well done. I am in the process of teaching myself to paint my son's Warhammer 40K. He's lost interest in them, but they are cool and I'm slowly improving my technique to be able to paint them to a decent standard for him for his High School Graduation at the end of the...

It depends on what you are looking for: Fome-Cor uses outer faces (of different materials) and a polystyrene core (I've built large scale, complex 3D, micro layouts with it for photo dioramas) XPS (Expanded Polystyrene) board is another option. You'll need to do a local search for suppliers...

Stephan; Micro railway layouts are a thing now. Especially, in the small scales, there are many opportunities to not only build and base your models but have trains running through those dioramas also. A google search (use the link) Google Image Search (Micro Layout) will give you some ideas...

Foamboard works. more information for you here: https://www.foamboards.com.au/What-is-Foam-Board Hope that helps.

Nice mate. Don't worry about the camera blowing out the colours, often it is the lights you're using. I prefer the LED lights from, of all places, Ikea. They are daylight rated and they make for great photos. I use their spring lamps too. The whole kit and caboodle set me back about 40 bucks...

Outstanding! Loved the Canberra's, and you've done a great job on this one.

You've done a great job. I defy anyone else to give you tips on the blast damage. I've never flown an X-Wing in combat, so I can't offer you any advice on the blast damage! As others have said, if you've learned, and had fun along the way, then I'd say you should be well pleased. My tuppence...

Great build mate. I am a lover of the older Matchbox kits, having built heaps of them when I was a Yonker. They do have fit problems, simply from the design of the kit, but they make up into a great representation of the aircraft/tank/car/etc on which they are based. and for a lovely display...

I use a couple of Ikea lamps with their Daylight balanced LED lamps. And these made a vast difference to my daylight balanced fluorescent lamp. I posted about it here (images included for those interested), including links to the items at Ikea. And they were cheap, but very sturdy.