Feeling weathered

[WildD0G]

My first attempt will be the BF109 E3.
The colors i’ll be using will be:
RLM70 Black Olive / Black Green
RLM71 Dark Green / Deep Green
RLM02 RLM Grey
RLM76 Light Blue / Clear Blue
RLM 04 Flat Yellow
In acrylic paint. Tamiya

My question is how do I decide on which washes do I apply on these colors? Can i have a general one or do you apply it color specific?
I stay in a remote area and need to buy all at once. As I’m new to this. I haven’t got any.

Will appreciate it if someone can explain it to me please.

WD

 

[urumomo]

You can go a long way with only dark earth tones .
Sepia , burnt umber and maybe black and payne's gray ,, raw umber and yellow ochre also .
I'd recommend getting some oil paints and oderless mineral spirit .
Oils will give you far more open time and will go a long way making washes .

 

[Marktastrophe]

You should be able to make a wash out of any paint you buy with proper thinning. (I will say that trying to make washes out of Tamiya Clear colors has ended up with more of a glaze than a wash when I'm done, as food for thought.)

(Edit: had a strange half sentence at the end that is now gone )

 

[the Baron]

Second Momo, I get a lot of mileage out of sepia and umber, burnt and raw for washes. I also prefer dark and medium gray over black. In my experience, black has been too stark a color, but a dark grey has been dark enough.

I use craft store acrylics, brands like Apple Barrel, Americana, and Folk Art, for weather washes. I do use some oil and mineral spirits, too.

And I use plain old artist pastel chalks to make weathering powders. I got a set of earth colors years ago, a dozen sticks in a range from light brown to dark brown, a stick of black, a yellow, and I grind 'em as I need 'em. I also use those with a little water and dishwashing soap to make mud effects.

 

[Little Cutie]

I don't know what your native language is but it's SPECIFIC COLOUR - not the other way around as the advertising imbeciles of the USA have butchered the English language with their stupidity. It loses all true meaning when the syntax is all buggered up. However that may be you don't need oils or chalk as these are methods of amateurs and the inexperienced and can ruin your model and the paint on it. You can use water based acrylics as I do for weathering. I water them down so that they run accordingly to accommodate my needs. black and brown - light to dark brown and earth tones if you're looking to make a realistic effect. You can look this up on www.youtube.com for a video tutorial on this subject. Using actual paint especially water based acrylic that you can get just about anywhere like Wally - World or at the hobby store but those will be expensive. Wally-World (Wal-Mart) is only .50 cents a bottle and they go a long way. You can make a mistake and remove it easily or manipulate it any way you desire. Once dry it doesn't simply rub off like chalk or oil. And it dries in about a half hour and cures in about a day. Small brushes work best. This is just a small example. Watch Plasmo videos on aircraft. He is the best!!! Just put that name into the YouTube search bar and click on his videos and prepare to be amazed!

 

[urumomo]

 

[WildD0G]

Second Momo, I get a lot of mileage out of sepia and umber, burnt and raw for washes. I also prefer dark and medium gray over black. In my experience, black has been too stark a color, but a dark grey has been dark enough.

I use craft store acrylics, brands like Apple Barrel, Americana, and Folk Art, for weather washes. I do use some oil and mineral spirits, too.

And I use plain old artist pastel chalks to make weathering powders. I got a set of earth colors years ago, a dozen sticks in a range from light brown to dark brown, a stick of black, a yellow, and I grind 'em as I need 'em. I also use those with a little water and dishwashing soap to make mud effects.

Haaa. Thanks for sharing. I appreciate it.

 

[WildD0G]

Haaa. Thanks for sharing. I appreciate it.

When you do the mud effect, do you add ca glue or something to toughen it up?

 

[Marktastrophe]

I don't know what your native language is but it's SPECIFIC COLOUR - not the other way around as the advertising imbeciles of the USA have butchered the English language with their stupidity.

No, "how do I decide on which washes do I apply on these colors? Can i have a general one or do you apply it color specific?" is correct. He isn't asking for a specific color, he is asking if the color of a wash is color specific to the base coat. Also we're here for model building, not for grammar policing.

However that may be you don't need oils or chalk as these are methods of amateurs and the inexperienced and can ruin your model and the paint on it.

This is entirely subjective. Industry wide Solvent-Free Acrylics are recommended to beginners for their mildness, lack of odor and ease of cleanup.
And you can layer paints in pretty much any order you want so long as they are given proper time to cure before hand. Hobby paints are not overpriced, they are specialized, no name brand plastic model hobby pant will ruin polystyrene... because they are specialized.

Using actual paint especially water based acrylic that you can get just about anywhere like Wally - World or at the hobby store but those will be expensive. Wally-World (Wal-Mart) is only .50 cents a bottle and they go a long way.

In this hobby I've found that the more money I'm willing to spend on tools, equipment, and paint. The more time I spend creating and painting instead of troubleshooting, prepping, or fighting. You can go cheap and get it done, and you can spend way too much on name alone. You have to find that happy medium between cost and time saving, and unfortunately it takes trial and error because it's different for everyone.

You can make a mistake and remove it easily or manipulate it any way you desire. Once dry it doesn't simply rub off like chalk or oil.

Water based Acrylics are the least forgiving to manipulate, and almost always require a full sand or strip when you make a mistake because the film it dries to will lift and peel. Acrylic also sticks to polystyrene the least well out of the three options (Enamel, Lacquer, Acrylic) without an etching agent or primer.
In my most recent project I have layered Acrylics over Lacquers over Acrylics over spray Lacquers. I am not sure what experience you've had with solvent based paint rubbing off "like chalk or oil" but that has unequivocally not been my experience. Even with heavily applied cheap masking tape and non-gentle handling.
My recent build with gratuitous masking and no paint damage despite the orange paint being a Mr. Color Lacquer (applied over pink water based Acrylic) is here:
1/24 Honda City Hovercar Conversion update

 

[Steve Ski]

Thank you, Mork. You handled that quite professionally!

 

[urumomo]

If you go the acrylic route for washes , you can get more open time by adding retarder ( propylene glycol ) but keep in mind that a little goes a long way .
Experimenting on scrap is always a good practice .

 

[the Baron]

When you do the mud effect, do you add ca glue or something to toughen it up?

You could, though I'd use white glue, if anything. I find that the dishwashing liquid dries or sets pretty well. I'll have to see if I still have any pics to show an example.
I'm talking about tiny amounts, too, a couple drops of water, a couple drops of soap, and enough chalk to make a paste, about the consistency of toothpaste. I mix it in one of the wells on my ceramic palette, and then apply it with an old paintbrush or a toothpick, depending on the piece.

 

[WildD0G]

To everyone:
Thanks for all your inputs. I really do appreciate it. Glad you share your experience and knowledge with me.
Currently I’m waiting for my “stuff” to be delivered. I must buy everything online as I stay in the bush. And I’m very anxious to get going.
I’ll ge going for an operation next week, should have some time on hand for my first build.
Be on the lookout for my first attempt and feel free to Give more advice.

Thanks! Appreciated!
WD

 

[Little Cutie]

No, "how do I decide on which washes do I apply on these colors? Can i have a general one or do you apply it color specific?" is correct. He isn't asking for a specific color, he is asking if the color of a wash is color specific to the base coat. Also we're here for model building, not for grammar policing.


This is entirely subjective. Industry wide Solvent-Free Acrylics are recommended to beginners for their mildness, lack of odor and ease of cleanup.
And you can layer paints in pretty much any order you want so long as they are given proper time to cure before hand. Hobby paints are not overpriced, they are specialized, no name brand plastic model hobby pant will ruin polystyrene... because they are specialized.


In this hobby I've found that the more money I'm willing to spend on tools, equipment, and paint. The more time I spend creating and painting instead of troubleshooting, prepping, or fighting. You can go cheap and get it done, and you can spend way too much on name alone. You have to find that happy medium between cost and time saving, and unfortunately it takes trial and error because it's different for everyone.


Water based Acrylics are the least forgiving to manipulate, and almost always require a full sand or strip when you make a mistake because the film it dries to will lift and peel. Acrylic also sticks to polystyrene the least well out of the three options (Enamel, Lacquer, Acrylic) without an etching agent or primer.
In my most recent project I have layered Acrylics over Lacquers over Acrylics over spray Lacquers. I am not sure what experience you've had with solvent based paint rubbing off "like chalk or oil" but that has unequivocally not been my experience. Even with heavily applied cheap masking tape and non-gentle handling.
My recent build with gratuitous masking and no paint damage despite the orange paint being a Mr. Color Lacquer (applied over pink water based Acrylic) is here:
1/24 Honda City Hovercar Conversion update

Chalks and oils wipe off easily - not solvent based paints. And water based acrylics wipe right off for me which is why I use them. I've never had to strip anything because of using them. And NO - colour specific is NOT proper syntax. I'm not going to get into a shouting match with you but this is getting the cart in front of the horse saying things backwards which is ignorant and confusing. You're SPECIFYING the colour - not colour the specify!! That makes no sense. He even said that English wasn't his first language and I don't intend to make things worse for him. Our country is bound and determined to destroy itself in every way - including its' language.

 

[Marktastrophe]

To everyone:
Thanks for all your inputs. I really do appreciate it. Glad you share your experience and knowledge with me.
Currently I’m waiting for my “stuff” to be delivered. I must buy everything online as I stay in the bush. And I’m very anxious to get going.
I’ll ge going for an operation next week, should have some time on hand for my first build.
Be on the lookout for my first attempt and feel free to Give more advice.

Thanks! Appreciated!
WD

Oh, if you are in Oz I cannot recommend SMS paints enough.
If it weren't for shipping costs I'd only order SMS from now and into the future.
You can find their line here.

 

[Marktastrophe]

Also, the request was: To specify an unknown colored wash based on a specified acrylic color. Making his question color specific because it's a relation and not a description.

 

[urumomo]

You need to put your oxygen mask on to continue this , buddy ,
...ain't any air up there where they're at

 

[the Baron]

There's a hyphen implied between "color" and "specific". I think everyone got that, but one.

 

[WildD0G]

Oh, if you are in Oz I cannot recommend SMS paints enough.
If it weren't for shipping costs I'd only order SMS from now and into the future.
You can find their line here.

Hi ‘Mork’. Nah, I’m South African. We haven’t got that here.
we actually have very little here looking at the overseas online shops. But let’s do with what we have.
Regards

 

[WildD0G]

I’m building.