Grendel's Falcon

[Grendels]

I am only going to  use one gun well.  I am probably going to use the lower gun well as the mounting point for the stand.  Not sure about that yet....

[scratchy]

Instead of one mounting point,... why not multiple points, like the studio scale models. Cut small sections out and use them as "caps" to hide the points that aren't used.  This way you don't have to sacrifice one detail area.  Just an idea.

[Grendels]

I am thinking of building only one mount point and making it removable.   I am also thinking bout making the landing gear removable so I can pull her off the stand and then sit her down so that she is landed.  I have a couple of weeks to decide before I have to commit. 

Scratchy:  It is a good idea, and I will keep it in mind. If I decide to build her only in flight mode, I will do something like that.

  Also, I did order those tools and I can't wait to give them a try.

[Grendels]

A short update.   I cleaned up the insert with the brass:



I think it looks a lot better.  Also if you take a close look you can see that I notched out the sides of the hull where these inserts go.  I have done all of those for  the entire ship.

And two more parts got copper:

[Omegaman55]

WOW G!!! I am defiantly sterling this mod!!! 

[Quaralane]

A lot of work to do it like this, John. But it looks to be paying off really well

[Grendels]

here is a video on some of the pipework.

Millennium Falcon part 8: Pipes part 1

[merseajohn]

Plumbing looks good G much better than it did before. You've set yourself quite a challenge!

[Grendels]

Thanks Merseajohn!   Right now I am waiting for the tools that scratchy recommended so I can get to the surface pipes.   

I know I  am not doing this one up cannon, but I am having fun!  That is what matters to me. 

[Tanker52]

Grendels, great video on the piping detail.  Suggestion for you for removing the piping from the surface of the ship, try the dynamo tape laying two strips along the length of the pipe.  This will act as buffer and if you get to close the tape will give you a warning you’re getting to close.  This will hopefully protect the surface.  Then you can take some 3M blue painting tape ( or any low tack tape ) and put along the pipe and then sand the remaining flush.  Another suggestion for the inside thick pipes, use a sharp blade and score a line the length of the pipe as best as you can.  Drill a series of holes along the top and use the blade to carefully slice the plastic away working from the outside towards the holes.  Then you can use sprue cutter to remove the remaining plastic.  The last bit of plastic can be shaved with a blade.  Hope this makes sense.

[Grendels]

Thank you for the tip!  I will give it a try tonight and yes I did understand everything you suggested.

To make it easier, the tools that scratchy suggested came in today, so I am all ready for those pipes.

[Omegaman55]

Hi John,
Can you tell me what you're soaking parts in? I scrubbed mine with warm water and a little detergent and they seem fine, got one gun well built and painted including putting an LED behind the chair. I must get back to it... Been sooooo busy and now I'm sick  Oh well, going to fall short of the finish date but I will keep going....

[Grendels]

I usually scrub them with cleanser like Ajax, or comet.  But these parts are too delicate for that treatment.   So I am going to give them a soak in super clean.   It is a de-greaser.  And the mold release is oil based.  Should take it right off.

Others have told me that they just soak the parts in dish soap.  I tried that with the brakiri, but I haven't glued the parts on yet.   I am doing that tonight.  Should work though, the Brakiri parts don't feel oily at all.

[Grendels]

Tonight's pipework:

[Jaitea]

Looking great Grendel

J