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SCI-FI & SPACE / Re: USS Excalibur Refit Redux
« Last post by Grendels on Today at 01:44 AM »
Looks nice!
STAR WARS GB / Re: Nice-N Studio Scale B-Wing
« Last post by Quaralane on Mon Apr, 23, 2018, 11:49:PM »
Very nicely done there, John
AIRCRAFT / Re: Academy Models 1:48 Hawker Hunter
« Last post by Quaralane on Mon Apr, 23, 2018, 11:47:PM »
Looks good.
SCI-FI & SPACE / Re: USS Excalibur Refit Redux
« Last post by Quaralane on Mon Apr, 23, 2018, 11:37:PM »
After almost a year, I've gone in and worked to finish the redux of the USS Excalibur refit

Had to print some markings that were missing from the supplemental sheet, including the pennants-with Excalibur name, and the main gangway as well as some spares from the previous build

Got back to work applying the aztecs. Slow process, but we got there

Ran into some small problems with the registry markings, including some of the new ones
(the decal film on these seems to be very fragile)
Luckily for me, I've gotten in the habit of scanning any new decal sheets into the computer as a safety measure. I was able to reprint the needed replacements
Final detail painting was added by hand

Finished build pics:

Youtube link:
AIRCRAFT / Re: Questions about scale model building
« Last post by urumomo on Mon Apr, 23, 2018, 07:10:AM »
Who makes modified oil-based primers ?
Lots of companies .
Rustoleum for one .
You can apply all the same top-coats , and are way , way more durable than lacquer . Far lower solvent volume . are ready for top-coat within 24 hours .

I include the term " enamel " because that is often how they are marketed . They are alkyd resin ." Enamel " is a misapplied term .
Oil-base actually cures out through oxygen absorption which changes the film chemically  -- lacquers form a weak film via solvent evaporation .
Again , injectrion molding does not incorporate release agents so parts cleaning isn't necessary . 

AIRCRAFT / Re: Academy Models 1:48 Hawker Hunter
« Last post by Mikey_W_1980 on Mon Apr, 23, 2018, 04:45:AM »
So this weekend I managed to get the undercarriage, stores and some small details done. this is now about 99% done.....I may do some minor weathering....but not sure as yet...


A slight issue with one of the front carriage snapped in 2 when taking it off the sprue...some some very careful gluing and clentching and it seems to be staying in place.



Stores and flaps in place....


Dried and sitting pretty....just enough weight in the nose to keep it down.



The nose gear is a bit flimsy though.....




Thoughts, comments, any pointers on how to improve are all welcomed.

Hope you all enjoy?
Construction, Lighting and Groundwork Q&A / Re: Strobe circuit w/ pot
« Last post by Grendels on Mon Apr, 23, 2018, 02:55:AM »
It is just a basic 555  blinker, and not too expensive if I read it correctly.    You can change the value of R1 if you decide to use something other than 9V   The rest of it will be fine with a change of voltage.
WATERCRAFT / Re: Revell U-99
« Last post by JanBlackSmith on Mon Apr, 23, 2018, 01:54:AM »
The boat is considered to be something that everyone would like to find a real work, but do not know if we will find it again.
AIRCRAFT / Re: Questions about scale model building
« Last post by stevethefish on Mon Apr, 23, 2018, 01:53:AM »
I suggest you use a spray-can primer that is oil-base ( enamel ) , then acrylics for your top-coats .
Who makes enamel primers? I've heard of this, but I cannot imagine why anyone would use any enamel as a primer. Enamels have such a longer drying time, and aren't as durable. I've only ever known lacquer primers. They dry fast, are sturdy, and lacquer, enamel, and acrylic can be applied over it.

And about washing parts first, this won't be necessary for Japanese-made models. The same for China and Korea too, I imagine. I've only ever had problems with the release agent preventing proper paint coating on Western-made kits such as from Moebius and AMT.
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