Author Topic: R-Type R-9A Arrowhead by PLUM  (Read 6111 times)

Offline stevethefish

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R-Type R-9A Arrowhead by PLUM
« on: Mon May, 01, 2017, 04:27:AM »
I've tinkering with lighting model kits, but I have yet to finish one. The simple Rebel Transport I'd started last year has expanded to include the Millenium Falcon and two X-Wings. I'm working on a Revell Cylon Raider as well, and I've started an even more intricate project: the R-9A Arrowhead starfighter from the shmup game R-Type Delta by Irem.

I've uploaded the first video so far:

I will be using flickering blue LEDs for the engines (one 5mm and four 3mm) and the cockpit will include yellow fiber optics, and a purple UV SMD. Luminescent/glow-in-the-dark paint will be used for the pilot and the cockpit, making use of the UV light coming from the console.

R-Type's gameplay incorporates an indestructible force orb that upgrades the shots, can be used as a shield, and can be launched at enemies. The model has a shiny yellowish ping-pong ball-type sphere that is split into two halves. I intend to use a series of SMDs that have a 120 degree shining radius to hopefully illuminate the ball from the inside. I've never soldered an SMD before, but I've seen Grendels's video tutorial. Once I have them wired up, I will experiment with resistors to dim them accordingly. I've already gone over the inside and outside of this ball with 400 and 600 sanding sponges, and have given them a clear coat of flat clear mixed with a generous helping of flat base to help refract the light. You'll see this in the second video, whenever I finish it. The force orb has four prong arms attached to it in a ring. My hope is to attach the SMDs to the parts of the prong that fit inside the ball.
« Last Edit: Fri May, 05, 2017, 04:46:AM by stevethefish »

Offline stevethefish

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Re: R-Type R-9A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #1 on: Sun May, 07, 2017, 07:19:PM »
The lighting is coming along.
« Last Edit: Mon May, 08, 2017, 12:58:AM by stevethefish »

Offline urumomo

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Re: R-Type R-9A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #2 on: Sun May, 07, 2017, 08:00:PM »
 Not playing here  , Gregg

 Is this the video # 2 from last night ?  - or different ?
 That one is playing on YouTube ,  --->   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PbiquWsHvU

 

Offline Belugawrx

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Re: R-Type R-9A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #3 on: Sun May, 07, 2017, 11:19:PM »
hmmmm?
Bruce
cut towards your chum not your thumb!!

Offline stevethefish

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Re: R-Type R-9A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #4 on: Mon May, 08, 2017, 01:00:AM »
Crap, thanks for the correction. It used to be that you could just go to your video list, right click, copy the URL, and it would be the URL for playing the video. Recently, YouTube changed that and now it assumes you want to edit it each time. Before when I wanted to edit it, I'd just choose "edit."

Offline urumomo

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Re: R-Type R-9A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #5 on: Mon May, 08, 2017, 01:03:AM »

  Cool   -- I was just heading back here to see if it was some ephemeral glitch or the URL was wack

Offline stevethefish

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Re: R-Type R-9A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #6 on: Mon May, 08, 2017, 01:30:AM »
I will probably have a video 3 out soon, but I had such a hard time soldering those tiny SMDs I bought that I didn't film much of it. I was dropping way too many F-bombs and wondering if God hates me. I would solder the magnet wire to the contact, and after the solder cooled the wire would just slip out. I had used a cigarette lighter to melt off the wire coating, which I'd think would cause it to slip. So I don't know what the hell was going on.

I managed to get the string of 4 SMDs soldered in the end, but if I jiggle the wires they flicker. So, I don't know if I have confidence. I ruined one SMD because I was using the iron to remove solder that had bridged the + and - contacts. It gouged the plastic.

It's a good idea to coat the contacts with epoxy glue to keep the wires in place afterwards, right? Could I do this while the lights are on, or would the glue conduct electricity in liquid form?

Offline urumomo

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Re: R-Type R-9A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #7 on: Mon May, 08, 2017, 01:35:AM »
 epoxy is dielectric uncured

     ;D   no flickering  ,   means bad joint !

Offline stevethefish

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Re: R-Type R-9A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #8 on: Mon May, 08, 2017, 02:42:AM »
Hmm... OK, so in liquid form it's non-conductive. Thanks.

     ;D   no flickering  ,   means bad joint !
I'm sorry, but could you rephrase this? Are you saying that if there is no flickering it means a bad joint? That doesn't sound right. And by "joint" you mean a soldered connection, right?

Offline urumomo

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Re: R-Type R-9A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #9 on: Mon May, 08, 2017, 09:46:AM »
If jiggling the assembly makes the lights flicker it means you have a bad connection somewhere and the contact point is opening during the movement .
 
You're not getting adhesion with the solder   --  the joint  , or joints , are loose .

There's an endless number of soldering and de-soldering vids on YouTube as you know  -
   epoxying what's there might solve the problem by securing the wires from movement   --- But , no guarantee --  could be fine for months and then some movement might open the contact    ???
                                                                                                              best to have solid solder joint

 This guy has great channel  ( IMHO )  --  new video today  ,,  apropos
                                               
                        good video to watch a couple of times if you're new to soldering or having difficulties -
                                        Very on point for what's at hand   - quite serendipitous   ;D  :

                 

                                       https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtJ5gngTm-A
« Last Edit: Mon May, 08, 2017, 11:27:AM by urumomo »

Offline stevethefish

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Re: R-Type R-9A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #10 on: Mon May, 08, 2017, 11:27:AM »
Could it be that using a cigarette lighter to burn off the stuff on the ends is not good? I figured that it would be the surest way to strip the coating off of the wires.

Offline urumomo

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Re: R-Type R-9A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #11 on: Mon May, 08, 2017, 11:29:AM »
   ;D     Nah  , man

              a blade or wire stripper you be needing   -- all insulation is cut off ( avoiding cutting into the wire ! )

     That's a really great video  ,
              I just had time to watch the whole thing   --  I love Clive  ,    really great channel

             He has bunch of videos that should be of help with this
« Last Edit: Mon May, 08, 2017, 11:31:AM by urumomo »

Offline urumomo

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Re: R-Type R-9A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #12 on: Mon May, 08, 2017, 11:42:AM »
also important  ,
  very important    --  and of course  , endless vids on the subject

                         

                                                   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j1ZnkTC5bps

Offline Grendels

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Re: R-Type R-9A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #13 on: Tue May, 09, 2017, 02:59:AM »
I did do a lot of practice before I started soldering a lot of parts together.   There is a method to it.   

The one thing I can add is the order of operations:

Heat first

solder second.   When the parts are hot enough, the solder will just flow between them.

To check for a good joint, give it a gentle tug, if it is a good solder joint, it won't come apart.

Offline stevethefish

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Re: R-Type R-9A Arrowhead by PLUM
« Reply #14 on: Tue May, 09, 2017, 04:01:AM »
I'm reading a railroad modeling page that says I have to tin the magnet wire first by passing the wire through the blob of hot solder while it is on the soldering iron tip. Do you guys do that? I wasn't aware of this. I think I've already destroyed one of the LEDs, and I'm afraid of ruining others if I have to undo my work so far. Alas, since these flicker, there must be a bad soldering connection somewhere along the line. Drat.