Author Topic: 1701A  (Read 3404 times)

Offline Quaralane

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Re: 1701A
« Reply #15 on: Thu Mar, 02, 2017, 09:44:PM »
You've inspired me to get back into decaling my Refit. I started aztecing the bottom of the saucer. The first one went on fine, and the next two got cracked and couldn't be pulled off the paper whole. Crap. I dumped Micro Set into my airbrush tonight and sprayed the decal sheets. Before, I only had one that shattered a bit. But after having two in a row go bad on me, I wanted to try putting down a coat of Micro Set to keep the decals stronger. I'll try another one (hopefully) soon and if that didn't work, then I will spray these with Testors Decal Bonder.

You SURE it's Micro Set you're spraying on the decals? That's usually used to prep the surface of the model for decal placement. It might be causing more problems than it solves if you're actually spraying the decals with it.
Liquid Decal Film or the Testors Decal Bonder would be more what you're after for strengthening decals
"There must be some way out of here," said the Joker to the Thief.
"There's too much confusion. I can't get no relief."
--Bob Dylan, "All Along the Watchtower" 1965--

Offline Scott Girvan

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Re: 1701A
« Reply #16 on: Thu Mar, 02, 2017, 09:58:PM »
Qs onto something


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Offline stevethefish

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Re: 1701A
« Reply #17 on: Thu Mar, 02, 2017, 11:49:PM »
You SURE it's Micro Set you're spraying on the decals? That's usually used to prep the surface of the model for decal placement. It might be causing more problems than it solves if you're actually spraying the decals with it.
Liquid Decal Film or the Testors Decal Bonder would be more what you're after for strengthening decals
Ah CRAP, you're right! I haven't used this stuff in such a long time that I got them confused. It was the Liquid Decal Film by Micro that I'd used in the past. Well crap, I wonder if I've completely ruined my decals now?

Offline Grendels

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Re: 1701A
« Reply #18 on: Fri Mar, 03, 2017, 01:47:AM »
Let's hope not.....

let me know if you do, I can scan the decals and email to you if needed.

Offline stevethefish

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Re: 1701A
« Reply #19 on: Fri Mar, 03, 2017, 02:23:AM »
I contacted Round 2 about possibly ordering replacement decals. I can always have a friend in the USA receive them and send them to me if necessary. I'm gonna try one tonight and if it doesn't work, I'll hit them with the decal bonder tonight and hope for the best.

Offline stevethefish

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Re: 1701A
« Reply #20 on: Sat Mar, 04, 2017, 07:54:PM »
Round 2 says the decals are cheaper than I thought. Although a few nights ago I sprayed them with the Testors Decal Bonder and they are usable. I have a sick kid this weekend and I spent most of the day yesterday applying decals. The decals are a bit flakey now though, as in literal flakes. I can't remember if I had that problem before this mess. I haven't touched these decals in over a year or so.

Offline Quaralane

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Re: 1701A
« Reply #21 on: Sat Mar, 04, 2017, 11:59:PM »
Flakiness may be coming from what the Micro Set did to them
"There must be some way out of here," said the Joker to the Thief.
"There's too much confusion. I can't get no relief."
--Bob Dylan, "All Along the Watchtower" 1965--

Offline stevethefish

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Re: 1701A
« Reply #22 on: Sun Mar, 05, 2017, 02:11:AM »
That's what I was thinking, too. The good thing is that this is pretty salvagable. Round2 got back to me pretty quickly and the replacement decals are actually less than I thought. What I could do is buy those along with the clear parts and I'll have an all new kit. Too bad that Tetryon Parts is closed indefinitely...

Offline Scott Girvan

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Re: 1701A
« Reply #23 on: Sun Mar, 05, 2017, 12:27:PM »
Probably worth buying new decals


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Offline stevethefish

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Re: 1701A
« Reply #24 on: Mon Mar, 06, 2017, 12:30:AM »
John,
Have you seen this video? Instead of using two 555 timer chips to do the strobes and the running lights, a 556 chip can control both blink rates simultaneously. I'll look at getting one of these!


Check out this document. It is pretty easy to understand, even for a knucklehead such as myself.
http://virtualight.com/?p=1199

Offline Grendels

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Re: 1701A
« Reply #25 on: Mon Mar, 06, 2017, 01:48:AM »
LOL!!  I spent my weekend getting both the blink and the strobe working like I see them in the Wrath of Khan!   And here you are posting something simpler than what I did.....

Oh well, I have mine working not going to change them.

Offline unttld

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Re: 1701A
« Reply #26 on: Mon Mar, 06, 2017, 08:53:AM »
It's not necessarily simpler (unless the rest of the wiring is simpler). A 556 is just two 555s in one package.


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Offline Grendels

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Re: 1701A
« Reply #27 on: Mon Mar, 06, 2017, 04:48:PM »
Well there you go, the 556 would just make the circuit smaller then, not necessarily easier....

Offline stevethefish

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Re: 1701A
« Reply #28 on: Mon Mar, 06, 2017, 08:05:PM »
I've never heard of a 556 timer before. The woman who made the video is fantastic. She also made a video on programming LEDs to phase between amber and blue for the deflector array. I can provide a link if you need later... YouTube is blocked on my work computer.

I am very earnestly wanting to see how you do this. According to my notes, I believe it was you who said about using a smoothing capacitor so as not to drain power on the steady lights while the strobe/nav lights are blinking.

I've resumed work on my own 1:1000 Refit and I'll have a video uploaded soon. John, I have to tell you a couple of things about this build:

  • Be careful with these decals. The instructions say to go ahead and build the model with subassemblies. I had the pylons and neck attached to the engineering hull, and the nacelles and saucer. The problem is that when I put the decals onto the pylons, the frickin' decals were sized for the full length of the pylons, including the parts that fit into the hull. So when I applied the decal, there was excess length at the armpits and I had to hastily use my hobby knife to try to trim it off and it looks like poo now.
  • I've been told that the saucer will set at an angle, making it look odd and not parallel with the engineering hull. Some guys on the Starship Modeler forum recommended that I attach a shim on the top of the front of the neck. I made one out of a .5mm sheet of styrene and shaped it to the neck. I can take a picture of it if you'd like. I just hope I still have it and that I did not somehow lose it when I moved last fall.

I want to finish up my current project of the Rebel ships flying in formation before attempting a Trek ship. Actually, I'd like to work on that old Yamato Andromeda kit I bought a few years ago. It cost only 1200 yen (about $12US), and it is made to be lit. I saw another video in which someone had used a 555 timer chip to have the LED fade in and out, so that would be perfect for the ship's dual wave motion cannons. I'd like to do that with some strobe lights, light the bridge tower, and I have some flickering LEDs from HDA Modelworx that will look great on the engines. With that experience under my belt, I'd like to get started on an Enterprise.
« Last Edit: Wed Mar, 08, 2017, 10:26:PM by stevethefish »

Offline stevethefish

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Re: 1701A
« Reply #29 on: Tue Mar, 07, 2017, 12:18:AM »
Sorry for the double post, but HOLY CRAP this is cool. She has an interactive simulator for the 556 dual timer chip that uses Adobe Flash. Click on the "Electronics" button at the top and it displays a visual diagram of the circuit.